1980 29-2 nickel 4" 629?

Autococker07

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So I have a chance to pickup a late P&R 29-2 for $629... Here's the catch...

Gun is well used, but not horribly abused, there is a nice amateur trigger job done to it, but the trigger cannot be bumped down. Problems include normal wear and a mismatched (blue) screw, as well as pry marks around the side plate.... like I said, it seems pretty good, tight cylinder, etc, but the mismatch (and more importantly pry marks) have me a bit worried... Is $629 still a fair asking price? I think it is a bit high, but could really use a 29 shooter.... what do yall think?
 
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I picked this one up for 650.00 about 2 weeks ago(got lucky). its in very good condition. Not an expert but it seems like an ok deal, I think the 4 inch ones go for more. Great shooters, Perhaps some more knowledgeable on this subject can answer better than me
 
I estimate model 29-2 in 98% condition would sell for $850 without a box and papers. So in relation, $629 for one with a mis-matched screw and pry marks is not really out of line. However, the trigger job is what would worry me. While it may feel nice and smooth, the previous owner may have polished right through the case hardening possibly weakening the hammer & trigger. The pry marks lead me to believe this basement gunsmith was not very skilled. I would probably be offering $500, just in case I needed to replace the hammer and / or trigger further down the road. Although I must admit, I'm in GLL's court, I would rather pay the extra money for a 98% specimen.
 
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It is possible that all that was done to reduce the trigger pull was to cut off one or two coils on the trigger return spring. Pry marks on a nickel gun, ugh!

I reduced the trigger pull on my model 27-2 to 2# by just designing a lighter spring (I am a mechanical engineer).

New screws should be no problem.

I have $600 in my 29-3 6". I hate the rubber grips, so I bought a set of ivories for it. It was a 95% gun and in mechanically perfect condition.
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New screws should be no problem.

Thats what scares me (dare I say us?)... I completely understand (not agree, just understand the logic) bungling up a side plate and not replacing, as that gets expensive... but why in hell would someone not spend $10 on correct and non-buggered screws?

And if they didn't love the gun enough to replace screws with correct parts (and use the correct screwdriver), I don't trust their spring cutting skills....
 
Replacing the trigger return spring and screws would be a small deal. I think $629 is a bit high for a shooter. Of course a -2 is probably worth more than a -3 in the same condition. Actually, if this is just a shooter, then IMHO, -2 or -3 makes no difference. However if the stocks are in good shape, someone with rubber grips might pay a boot to trade. The rubber are comfortable to shoot but are visually challenged.

If it were offered to me I would probably pass, but I already have a 29--3 6" and a 29-10 4".
 
I wouldn't touch it with a 10 ft. pole!!! The bozo that did the "trigger job" didn't know how to remove a sideplate, he had no business mucking about inside! Trigger jobs could mean backing the strain screw out, shortening the strain screw, clipping the rebound spring, bending the mainspring and god knows what else. I caught a local gun butcher prying a sideplate off and never used him again.

I don't understand what you mean by "trigger can't be bumped down"?
 
Ditto

I would pass and spend a couple hundred more for a correct example !

Jerry

Ditto. I may not have this right, but here goes: The dissatisfaction of having settled for less remains long after the brief satisfaction of a cheap price. If that isn't right, please correct me. The only gun that I have bought and was sick about buying it was a 4 inch 29. The seller didn't mention that some amatuer had drilled two holes in the frame top for some type of optical sight. He had replaced the rear sight assembly, and the photos didn't show it. It was one of those "sold as is" deals. When I received the gun, and found the holes, I was fit to be tied. I called and asked why he didn't mention it in the description on GB, he just replied that he had given me a good price and that I shouldn't complain, and should be satisfied. He then hung up, and would no longer take my calls. I took the gun out to fire it, and after firing six shots, I noticed what looked like round gray burn rings on each chamber about 3/16" from the cylinder face. What was happening was the hole was so close to the forcing cone, that the fire was going up into the hole and redirected back onto the cylinder. I had my gun smith tap the holes and put in blued set screws to make it flush with the frame top. I took it back to my dealer and asked if he would sell it on consignment. It went a couple of months without selling, and he said that he needed a gun for his four wheeler in the mountains, so I sold it to him, repaired, and at a lower price. I can still hear that crook telling me what a good deal he had given me. If you would like to have a story like this to tell, then jump on it, if you want a gun to be proud to own, don't be swindled into somebody else's junk, wait until you fing something nice. This is my opinion, subject as always to the scrutiny of experts. DLB
 
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