500 rust

[cbr600f3]

I have a 500 that has only 15 rounds fired and it is starting to rust on the underside of trigger guard...how do i repair this and prevent it from continuing...i have oiled it already to slow the process. Its stainless steel...so much for the stainless i guess.

[BlackTalonJHP]

0000 steel wool with a little gun oil.
flitz or iosso gunbrite polish.
finish with Renaissance Wax to keep from rusting.

Hope this helps.

[shawn mccarver]

You will get all of the predictable replies about how stainless will rust, it just takes longer, etc.

I am assuming you acquired the revolver new, and therefore can say with certainty that no prior owner did anything stupid like file on the trigger guard, use steel wool or bleed all over it.

Assuming normal use (i.e. - it was not dropped in the ocean or stored there for an extended period, or you didn't leave it packed in salt under your outdoor sprinkler for a few days), then the problem might very well be that it did not go through the passivation process or it did not go properly through the passivation process at S&W after machining.

In general terms, the passivation process is used to remove carbon or iron material contaminants from stainless steel after machining or manufacturing as the cutting tools are carbon or other material that will rust and the machining process leaves microscopic bits embedded in the stainless, and it those bits that rust, creating the brown pitted effect.

I have seen new stainless revolvers develop the characteristic brown pitted-looking surface within two weeks of receipt from the distributor and in each case, it was a failure to properly passivate the revolver. Oddly, in every case, the reddish brown "pits" did not appear all over the revolvers, but only on certain parts - top strap, sideplate, etc. S&W confirmed in each case after the new revolvers were sent back that they were not properly passivated. S&W took care of each case in short order, with no further owner problems upon return.

Naturally, this is one reason the end user should really never use steel wool as it leaves contaminants in the same manner, which can require re-passivation. Knowing this, people just keep on doing it, making sure to use enough oil to make a middle eastern oil Sheik blush in the process of trying to correct or control the rusting effect after the ill-advised use of the steel wool. Oh well.

With all due respect to the previous post, if a stainless revolver needs paste wax to keep from rusting (given normal use and care - i.e. wipe it off and keep a very thin coat of oil), then you have a big problem with the finish and the revolver needs to go back.

My suggestion: what you describe shouldn't happen and it needs to go back to the factory for evaluation and correction.

[cbr600f3]

Yes indeed i bought it new..has never seen steel wool or anything else other then cloth and light oil. I will send it in for inspection as you say. Thanks for the inpit and advice.

[TAROMAN]

Interesting description.
I purchased a used 65-5 Ladysmith that was covered with just the reddish pits you describe.
Spent several long evenings polishing to get the pits out of it.

Originally Posted by shawn mccarver

You will get all of the predictable replies about how stainless will rust, it just takes longer, etc.

I am assuming you acquired the revolver new, and therefore can say with certainty that no prior owner did anything stupid like file on the trigger guard, use steel wool or bleed all over it.

Assuming normal use (i.e. - it was not dropped in the ocean or stored there for an extended period, or you didn't leave it packed in salt under your outdoor sprinkler for a few days), then the problem might very well be that it did not go through the passivation process or it did not go properly through the passivation process at S&W after machining.

In general terms, the passivation process is used to remove carbon or iron material contaminants from stainless steel after machining or manufacturing as the cutting tools are carbon or other material that will rust and the machining process leaves microscopic bits embedded in the stainless, and it those bits that rust, creating the brown pitted effect.

I have seen new stainless revolvers develop the characteristic brown pitted-looking surface within two weeks of receipt from the distributor and in each case, it was a failure to properly passivate the revolver. Oddly, in every case, the reddish brown "pits" did not appear all over the revolvers, but only on certain parts - top strap, sideplate, etc. S&W confirmed in each case after the new revolvers were sent back that they were not properly passivated. S&W took care of each case in short order, with no further owner problems upon return.

Naturally, this is one reason the end user should really never use steel wool as it leaves contaminants in the same manner, which can require re-passivation. Knowing this, people just keep on doing it, making sure to use enough oil to make a middle eastern oil Sheik blush in the process of trying to correct or control the rusting effect after the ill-advised use of the steel wool. Oh well.

With all due respect to the previous post, if a stainless revolver needs paste wax to keep from rusting (given normal use and care - i.e. wipe it off and keep a very thin coat of oil), then you have a big problem with the finish and the revolver needs to go back.

My suggestion: what you describe shouldn't happen and it needs to go back to the factory for evaluation and correction.

[shawn mccarver]

Originally Posted by TAROMAN

Interesting description.
I purchased a used 65-5 Ladysmith that was covered with just the reddish pits you describe.
Spent several long evenings polishing to get the pits out of it.

Oddly enough, one of the improperly passivated revolvers to which I referred was a Model 65 with 3 inch barrel, but not the LadySmith.

Your description sounds exactly like the passivation issue.

A quick trip to S&W for its passivation "bath" would have saved you MUCH heartache.

[Nframecollector]

Stainless steel is rust "resistant" not rustproof.

[DonD]

Originally Posted by BlackTalonJHP

0000 steel wool with a little gun oil.
flitz or iosso gunbrite polish.
finish with Renaissance Wax to keep from rusting.

Hope this helps.

Don't ever use steel wool on stainless. The stainless is "passivated" the steel wool gets into the stainless and starts corrosion initiation spots. Use 3M abrasive pads (Scotchbrite). Don

[cbr600f3]

Originally Posted by Nframecollector

Stainless steel is rust "resistant" not rustproof.

Figured as much. Just didnt figure a new gun should be rusting already. Not like its 20 years old and abused. Just like i wouldnt expect a brand new trucks bumper to rust within the first month of ownership.

[Snapping Twig]

Brass wool works. No ferrous metals, they cause problems.

[snubbyfan]

Originally Posted by shawn mccarver

You will get all of the predictable replies about how stainless will rust, it just takes longer, etc.

I am assuming you acquired the revolver new, and therefore can say with certainty that no prior owner did anything stupid like file on the trigger guard, use steel wool or bleed all over it.

Assuming normal use (i.e. - it was not dropped in the ocean or stored there for an extended period, or you didn't leave it packed in salt under your outdoor sprinkler for a few days), then the problem might very well be that it did not go through the passivation process or it did not go properly through the passivation process at S&W after machining.

In general terms, the passivation process is used to remove carbon or iron material contaminants from stainless steel after machining or manufacturing as the cutting tools are carbon or other material that will rust and the machining process leaves microscopic bits embedded in the stainless, and it those bits that rust, creating the brown pitted effect.

I have seen new stainless revolvers develop the characteristic brown pitted-looking surface within two weeks of receipt from the distributor and in each case, it was a failure to properly passivate the revolver. Oddly, in every case, the reddish brown "pits" did not appear all over the revolvers, but only on certain parts - top strap, sideplate, etc. S&W confirmed in each case after the new revolvers were sent back that they were not properly passivated. S&W took care of each case in short order, with no further owner problems upon return.

Naturally, this is one reason the end user should really never use steel wool as it leaves contaminants in the same manner, which can require re-passivation. Knowing this, people just keep on doing it, making sure to use enough oil to make a middle eastern oil Sheik blush in the process of trying to correct or control the rusting effect after the ill-advised use of the steel wool. Oh well.

With all due respect to the previous post, if a stainless revolver needs paste wax to keep from rusting (given normal use and care - i.e. wipe it off and keep a very thin coat of oil), then you have a big problem with the finish and the revolver needs to go back.

My suggestion: what you describe shouldn't happen and it needs to go back to the factory for evaluation and correction.

I might be showing my ignorance but as I understand it the process used to remove the surface scaling and impurities from stainless steel is referred to as 'pickling' and passivation is a process to make the surface passive or resistant to corrosion by forming an oxide film on pure, clean, descaled stainless in order to prevent corrosion. So even if the surface was cleaned and descaled by pickling it'll still corrode if passivation isn't properly performed.

Whatever the terminology, I tend to agree with Shawn that unless you stored that gun in a high salt enviroment, this shouldn't be happening.

[charlies]

passivated. good word...positive description.

[Snapping Twig]

Pickle passivated in nitric acid.

Kind of like anodizing on aluminum, a protective coating.

[SgtLumpy]

I actually am thinking of buying a gun to pack in salt and store under my outdoor sprinkler.

I've narrowed down the choices to either a Taurus or a Glock.

...


Sgt Lumpy

[DonD]

Originally Posted by SgtLumpy

I actually am thinking of buying a gun to pack in salt and store under my outdoor sprinkler.

I've narrowed down the choices to either a Taurus or a Glock.

...


Sgt Lumpy

That would be an Eric Holder approved decision. Don

[JcMack]

I've seen rust on Stainless Springfield 1911's. It forms on the matted/bead blasted surfaces like the dust cover and on the grip frontstrap under rubber wrap around grips. The micro sized "hills n valleys" of the matte finish seems to attract and retain moisture. Personally, I've never seen it on S&W. Something else to look out for.

[snubbyfan]

Actually, when I drink a bit too much I get all pickled and passive.

[CWH44300]

Originally Posted by snubbyfan

Actually, when I drink a bit too much I get all pickled and passive.

That's just wrong... lmao

[sac-gunslinger]

Originally Posted by shawn mccarver

this is one reason the end user should really never use steel wool as it leaves contaminants in the same manner

The best neutral products to use for "scrubbing" metal surfaces are Scotch-brite pads. You can find them in the paint section of your local mega-hardware store in varying grades of roughness. If you have access to an industrial supplier you can find an even greater variety of grades and thicknesses. The rougher grades can due a good impersonation of refinishing your revolver's metal surfaces.

[sac-gunslinger]

Originally Posted by snubbyfan

Actually, when I drink a bit too much I get all pickled and passive.

TMI...that's all I'ma gonna say