Master revolver action package - in plain English please?

Rugerista

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I love J frames. I recently purchased a no lock 642 and I am considering a trigger job. S&W offers this package for $165. Can someone please help me understand what the following means in plain English? Is the package worth it?

Trigger Stop
Chamfer Charge Holes
Polish Rebound Spring, Hammer Stud and Yoke Barrel Bosses
Detail Lockwork Surfaces
Stone Hammer and Trigger Contact Areas
Test Fire for Function

Here is a link to the S&W site:

http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/...4_750001_750051_775657_-1_757896_757896_image
 
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In many ways, it means S&W will do things they should have done before they shipped it the first time.

If you send it to S&W, understand that it will take 6-8 months to get it back.

The benefit of sending it to S&W is that the warranty will remain in effect.

There are benefits to sending it to a good gunsmith: the work would address what is needed and probably be better, but not faster.

If I bought one of these, I'd have my gunsmith work it over. The only thing I'd send to S&W is for a factory refinish.

I don't care about the warranty. I don't own any post '83 S&W s. Although some are good, they don't interest me.

Just my view, of course.
 
Trigger stop--metal piece that stops over travel of the trigger and gives you a quicker reset for the next round.

Chamfer Charge Holes--slightly widen the the top of the cylinder where the bullets go to make extraction of spent rounds easier, as well as dropping new ones in.


Items 3,4,5--makes the trigger pull lighter and smoother, removes burrs, uneven/rough spots etc.


Hope that helps.
 
I recently purchased a no lock 642 and I am considering a trigger job.
Trigger stop: prevents overtravel, especially in single action shooting. I don't like having a trigger stop on a double-action defense gun. One more thing to malfunction.

Chamfer charge holes: Break the sharp edges and make a slight taper to ease rapid reloading. I do this on my competitiion revolvers. Did not do it on my 442 carry.

Polish, detail, stone. Always nice to have a smooth, deburred action. How smooth is it now?

Is it worth it. That depends. I did a little minor smoothing on my carry 442, but mostly the reason it is so smooth is I have shot it a lot.
On a carry J frame, I am leery of the usual trigger lightening steps involving lighter springs, because 100% reliability is my highest priority. IMHO, J frames do not lend themselves to serious lightening of the trigger like a K frame does, even for range work.

Unless there is something obnoxious about the 642 action, I would probably just shoot it and have a "slick and light" K frame for range games, IDPA and ICORE. If you don't like K frames, a longer barreled model 60 is much more fun to shoot on the range than a 642.
 
Quick explanation of over travel-

Consistency is the key to accuracy. Movement is bad because it tends to be inconsistent. Over travel is the continued movement of the trigger after the shot is fired. A trigger stop stops the trigger after the shot is fired. It is a good idea on a bullseye gun, but really isn't needed for a defensive gun. The slight accuracy advantage isn't usually required, and the danger is that the stop will back out and engage before the shoot is fired. Then you are left with an expensive impact weapon.
 
Thank you for the explanations. It seems for a carry gun what you need is things that will make the trigger smoother. Good advice! It may save me some money. I only need part of the package.
 
Magna-Ports action job is the same amount of money, but better spent money in my opinion. You might want to check into it as well.

I would also add that with a little common sense and 600 grit sandpaper, you can pretty much replicate items 3,4,5 yourself.
 
Trigger Stop Movement

Quick explanation of over travel-

Consistency is the key to accuracy. Movement is bad because it tends to be inconsistent. Over travel is the continued movement of the trigger after the shot is fired. A trigger stop stops the trigger after the shot is fired. It is a good idea on a bullseye gun, but really isn't needed for a defensive gun. The slight accuracy advantage isn't usually required, and the danger is that the stop will back out and engage before the shoot is fired. Then you are left with an expensive impact weapon.

Have the trigger stop soldered in place to prevent it from backing out.
 
Several years ago I sent my 642 to S&W for its J-frame Action Enhancement which cost half as much as the Master Revolver Action Package. It consisted of polish rebound spring, hammer stud, and yoke barrel bosses; detail lockwork surfaces; and stone hammer and trigger contact areas. It did not include the trigger stop and chamfering the charge holes. The J-frame Action Enhancement significantly reduced the perceived trigger pull without using lighter springs. It was well worth the money, $80 at that time.
 
There is currently a nice alternative to buying a 642 and getting a trigger job (in my opinion). A 637 Wyatt Deep Cover with polished cylinder flutes, chrome plated bob hammer, hand polished chrome platted trigger, PC tuned action, clip grip and Gunsmoke logo.

Here is a link...
http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/...75655_757896_757896_ProductDisplayErrorView_Y


KYGUNCO had one for around $500, which is in the range of what you would pay for a J and a trigger job. I don't particularly like the logo and I have never used a clip grip (will it fit into most J frame holsters?). However with the tune extras and a bit of bling it is a nice handgun.

Now I need to sell my 642... Na I will keep it too :).
 
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