Should I install a spring kit?

M

macktheknife

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 5, 2013
Messages
147
Reaction score
44
I struggle to shoot accurately in double action on my 629 and was thinking about having a smith install a spring kit to lighten up the double action pull other than the obvious being less trigger pull what are the pros and cons of having this done and what kit should I have installed?

Sent from my LG-LS970 using Tapatalk
 
If done properly, only one pro: Somewhat lighter pull. If done improperly, numerous cons: Mushy trigger, slow rebound, light stikes, etc. People do it all the time. Make sure it's done by someone who knows how to do it, AND knows how to fix his mistakes.
 
Leave it alone. 35 years ago I had a 19-3 with a trigger job. Handed it to my brother in law and he immediately launched a hollow point skyward afterward proclaiming "It has a hair trigger!" Joe
 
Mike McLellan said:
If done properly, only one pro: Somewhat lighter pull. If done improperly, numerous cons: Mushy trigger, slow rebound, light stikes, etc. People do it all the time. Make sure it's done by someone who knows how to do it, AND knows how to fix his mistakes.
Click to expand...
Spot on, to which I'll add another con: if there's a hitch or grittiness anywhere in the action, lighter springs amplify the feel of it when squeezing the trigger.
 
macktheknife said:
I struggle to shoot accurately in double action on my 629 and was thinking about having a smith install a spring kit to lighten up the double action pull other than the obvious being less trigger pull what are the pros and cons of having this done and what kit should I have installed?
Click to expand...
Consider two things first: your technique, and if your grips are right for your hand.
 
Hapworth said:
Consider two things first: your technique, and if your grips are right for your hand.
Click to expand...

I'll try and find some better grips first and work on techniques before I think about the trigger. Didn't even occur to me all the problems that COULD happen with a spring kit. I'm just so wary to order grips online without trying them out first. I have pretty small hands and have yet to find a set of grips with finger grooves I like but I like the recoil reducing ability of rubber. But with a set of grips that fit my hand better reduce recoil on its own just by having a better grip angle? Maybe I don't necessarily need rubber. I have some old school pachmayr grips on it now that came on the gun when I bought it and I can't stand the grooves.
qyseny8y.jpg


Sent from my LG-LS970 using Tapatalk
 
And I also have no idea how much it was shot before me. Looked brand spankin new when I got it so maybe it's not "broken in" yet? I honestly don't even know how old it is. My guess is early 90's

Sent from my LG-LS970 using Tapatalk
 
If you're going to do work on your revolver, don't do just a spring change.
As Hapworth pointed out doing only that'll amplify any grittiness or hitches in the action.
Get a proper trigger job done, a smooth, crisp trigger is a thing of beauty.
Also, check your grip, are you gripping the gun correctly? A trigger job won't be of much use if you don't have proper technique. Lotsa dry fire practice can help with technique and smooth the guns action.
 
snubbyfan said:
If you're going to do work on your revolver, don't do just a spring change.
As Hapworth pointed out doing only that'll amplify any grittiness or hitches in the action.
Get a proper trigger job done, a smooth, crisp trigger is a thing of beauty.
Also, check your grip, are you gripping the gun correctly? A trigger job won't be of much use if you don't have proper technique. Lotsa dry fire practice can help with technique and smooth the guns action.
Click to expand...

Truth be told it is my first revolver and not sure if my grip is correct anyway. I just hold it as high as I can comfortably and interlock my thumbs. Watched some mickulek videos on YouTube and tried to computers his grip and stance as much as possible.

Sent from my LG-LS970 using Tapatalk
 
A spring kit will not really do much for the action of the pistol except lighten the pull. I recommend getting a trigger job done by a competent gunsmith. Let him/her know what the revolver's prime use is, and what you think you'd like done. I have some well smith'ed revolvers that I shoot better double action than single action, because the trigger is lighter, but, most importantly, smooth. Such an action job can run between $80-150 in my experience.

The main problem is finding a gunsmith you trust. Ask around at your range--ask specifically about S&W revolvers. There are great rifle gunsmiths that shouldn't be allowed anywhere near a revolver (and they usually know it).

Edit: great song. Mack the Knife was the most recorded song in US history, due to the translation from the German which used mostly one or two syllable words, allowing singers to do a lot with phraseology. Which you probably know. I have well over 30 different versions, from Louis Armstrong to the Doors to the Grateful Dead.
 
Last edited:
macktheknife said:
I'll try and find some better grips first and work on techniques before I think about the trigger. Didn't even occur to me all the problems that COULD happen with a spring kit. I'm just so wary to order grips online without trying them out first. I have pretty small hands and have yet to find a set of grips with finger grooves I like but I like the recoil reducing ability of rubber. But with a set of grips that fit my hand better reduce recoil on its own just by having a better grip angle? Maybe I don't necessarily need rubber. I have some old school pachmayr grips on it now that came on the gun when I bought it and I can't stand the grooves.
Click to expand...
If you have smaller hands (I do, too), might be an N-frame isn't the best size for you; if you stay with it, though, consider some Magnas, either Factory originals or the clones S&W offers now -- I find them to be a bit small on a K-frame, but fill my hand nicely on an N.

Spend some time visiting gun stores and shows just to palm different types of grips, a nice free way to get an idea of what else might work for you.
 
IMO, lots of dryfire, lubrication with RIG +P Stainless Steel Lube, maybe polish the rebound slide, in that order. All of those cost less than putting in an inferior spring, and don't reduce reliabilty. The last two can be done by a gunsmith if you don't want to pop the sideplate.
 
Spring kits are not really a big deal. They do make a lot of difference. But as others has said practice is the key. That being said I would not own a revolver that had a 14 lb double action and 5 lb single action pull. Ther is really no reason for it given the parts available and the instructional videos and gun forums for direction.
I had never unscrewed the side plates to any revolver prior to this year. I have now installed 2 spring kits, 2 extended firing pins and polished a few parts of the trigger.
I know there are other kits out there but I would buy the Wilson Spring Kit and the extended firing pin for your particular revolver from Brownells. Follow the Gary Miculek video (search youtube) on how to install the springs. It is pretty easy. The firing pin can be replaced with a pair of needle nose pliers. PM me if you have any questions on that. With the reduced mainspring you can get some failure to fires.

1. Order a Wilson Spring Kit
2. Use the 14 lb return spring ( the kit comes with 12, 13 and 14 but 12 and 13 seem mushy on the return)
3. Get a good set of hollow ground screwdrivers.
4. Order an extended firing pin from Brownells as well.
5. Have a good set of needle nose pliers and tweezers.
6. Take your time and follow the instructions. If you have questions post them in the gunsmithing forum here. You will get loads of help.
7. A good quality trigger pull gage is helpful. I have the lyman and it is pretty reliable and repeatable.

This will only reduce the spring tension and the trigger pull. It will not smooth out any rough spots or make the action smoother. I had to dry fire (with caps) my 629 about 2k times but it got rid of the creep and rough spots. The only other option there is to have a gunsmith do it. You will be amazed at how nice the gun shoots. Practice is still necessary but it is alway nice to have confidence that your equipment is functioning at its best. Good luck and email me if you have any questions

Rich
[email protected]
 
RButton said:
Spring kits are not really a big deal. They do make a lot of difference. But as others has said practice is the key. That being said I would not own a revolver that had a 14 lb double action and 5 lb single action pull. Ther is really no reason for it given the parts available and the instructional videos and gun forums for direction.
I had never unscrewed the side plates to any revolver prior to this year. I have now installed 2 spring kits, 2 extended firing pins and polished a few parts of the trigger.
I know there are other kits out there but I would buy the Wilson Spring Kit and the extended firing pin for your particular revolver from Brownells. Follow the Gary Miculek video (search youtube) on how to install the springs. It is pretty easy. The firing pin can be replaced with a pair of needle nose pliers. PM me if you have any questions on that. With the reduced mainspring you can get some failure to fires.

1. Order a Wilson Spring Kit
2. Use the 14 lb return spring ( the kit comes with 12, 13 and 14 but 12 and 13 seem mushy on the return)
3. Get a good set of hollow ground screwdrivers.
4. Order an extended firing pin from Brownells as well.
5. Have a good set of needle nose pliers and tweezers.
6. Take your time and follow the instructions. If you have questions post them in the gunsmithing forum here. You will get loads of help.
7. A good quality trigger pull gage is helpful. I have the lyman and it is pretty reliable and repeatable.

This will only reduce the spring tension and the trigger pull. It will not smooth out any rough spots or make the action smoother. I had to dry fire (with caps) my 629 about 2k times but it got rid of the creep and rough spots. The only other option there is to have a gunsmith do it. You will be amazed at how nice the gun shoots. Practice is still necessary but it is alway nice to have confidence that your equipment is functioning at its best. Good luck and email me if you have any questions

Rich
[email protected]
Click to expand...

I'm no smith at all. I don't even know what hollow ground screwdrivers are. I grew up in a severely anti-gun family and since I moved out as soon as I turned 18 a few years ago guns have become my passion and still pretty new in the world of firearms and revolver only about 2 months since a neighbor sold me his 629-3 for 300 bucks. A deal I couldn't refuse and now I have been bitten by the revolver bug. Badly.

Sent from my LG-LS970 using Tapatalk
 
Ill be grabbing one of these soon....I have been slowly migrating towards no groove grips as opposed to having finger grooves. They definitely are easier to get that good high position I like

GR25016%20001.JPG
 
Guitarmageddon said:
Ill be grabbing one of these soon....I have been slowly migrating towards no groove grips as opposed to having finger grooves. They definitely are easier to get that good high position I like

GR25016%20001.JPG
Click to expand...

Picture is too small. What are they?

Sent from my LG-LS970 using Tapatalk
 
macktheknife said:
I'm no smith at all. I don't even know what hollow ground screwdrivers are. I grew up in a severely anti-gun family and since I moved out as soon as I turned 18 a few years ago guns have become my passion and still pretty new in the world of firearms and revolver only about 2 months since a neighbor sold me his 629-3 for 300 bucks. A deal I couldn't refuse and now I have been bitten by the revolver bug. Badly.

Sent from my LG-LS970 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Look at the youtube video, if you have questions, email me. Hollow ground screwdriver:

Google Image Result for http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/1927/img4004q.jpg

Just follow Jerry's instructions and it is relatively easy. Take a photo of the innards after you take the plate off. It helps you remember how to put it back together.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Back
Top