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S&W Revolvers: 1980 to the Present All NON-PINNED Barrels, the L-Frames, and the New Era Revolvers


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  #1  
Old 04-09-2014, 03:47 PM
Hemi45 Hemi45 is offline
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Default Tale of two 442's - old & new

My new Pro model arrived today. It's nice enough but honestly not nearly as smooth as my 17 y/o gun. Before the obvious is mentioned, the older gun has had maybe 200 rounds through it to date so it's not from use.

Cosmetically, the only deduction I observed is the bright machine mark between the barrel and yoke. Otherwise it looks sharp! The cylinder is my only real complaint, it feels like its catching when I open it. Perhaps if I open/close it 500 times it will smooth out. I really can't recall what my other gun felt like out of the box but I don't recall it being anything less than perfect.

I guess like so many other mechanical devices - they just don't build them like they used to. Not sure when I'll fire it - I bought it to back up my original just in case it goes down for any reason. However, something tells me if I wait for that occasion this gun would stay NIB forever

Since it didn't happen without pics...
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_5139.jpg (55.9 KB, 78 views)

Last edited by Hemi45; 04-09-2014 at 04:03 PM.
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  #2  
Old 04-09-2014, 03:48 PM
Hemi45 Hemi45 is offline
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I can't post the other pics but the rest of the gun looks just like a 442-1

Last edited by Hemi45; 04-09-2014 at 04:15 PM.
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Old 04-09-2014, 04:06 PM
psjoe psjoe is offline
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Hi Hemi-

Try the pics again I would really like to see them;-)

Two things:
- I noticed that you have to firmly push the cylinder release to get it to open smoothly. It seem like it is a tight fit.
- Pop the side plate off and put a drop of oil on the rebound slide, hammer pin, and trigger pin. 3 drops will do it and the action should smooth out.
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Old 04-09-2014, 04:14 PM
Realgunner Realgunner is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psjoe View Post
put a drop of oil on the rebound slide, hammer pin, and trigger pin. 3 drops will do it and the action should smooth out.
Hemi has not complained about the action. Lubing these parts will do nothing for a cylinder that is hard to open. There is something wrong here that has slipped through quality control. I recommend contacting S&W.
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Old 04-09-2014, 04:22 PM
Hemi45 Hemi45 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Realgunner View Post
Hemi has not complained about the action. Lubing these parts will do nothing for a cylinder that is hard to open. There is something wrong here that has slipped through quality control. I recommend contacting S&W.
Interesting. So you're saying it should just fall open with a light tap like all my other (older) S&W's? I doubt I could shake this one open with the latch fully depressed!

Last edited by Hemi45; 04-09-2014 at 04:24 PM.
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Old 04-09-2014, 04:28 PM
psjoe psjoe is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hemi45 View Post
My new Pro model arrived today. It's nice enough but honestly not nearly as smooth as my 17 y/o gun.
Realgunner - I took this as a reference to the action.
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Old 04-09-2014, 05:32 PM
getoff getoff is offline
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my no dash 442 is a way different revo from the -2 i have. S&W is not the company it was when the 66 or 19-2 came to market. the opening of the cylinder is way down on my list of worries. do both of mine shoot dead on? yup. do they both open the same? no. does it bother/worry me? no. it's not fair to compare old to new. if it's a real problem not just an observation, or a real function issue, don't know what to tell you. hope the prob works out, and you can enjoy/ feel safe with either one. if not, the pro i may be interested in... !
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Old 04-09-2014, 05:46 PM
Old cop Old cop is offline
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This may not make sense but my 442-1 opens easily while my Model 38, which dates to the early '60's w/a flat latch, is harder to open. Who knows why . . .
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Old 04-09-2014, 06:49 PM
Realgunner Realgunner is offline
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Originally Posted by Hemi45 View Post
Interesting. So you're saying it should just fall open with a light tap like all my other (older) S&W's? I doubt I could shake this one open with the latch fully depressed!
When I was an LE armorer, it was part of the inspection process for revolvers. If the cylinder would not open with just a gentle push after the thumbpiece was pushed fully forward, we'd have our S&W-trained head gunsmith look at it. Usually at least a little work, like stoning, was required. It's hard to describe what's right and what isn't, but when we used to handle dozens of revolvers on a daily basis, you could tell when one wasn't quite "right".
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Old 04-09-2014, 06:57 PM
Realgunner Realgunner is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psjoe View Post
Realgunner - I took this as a reference to the action.
psjoe - No offense taken or intended, brother.
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  #11  
Old 04-09-2014, 07:31 PM
Hemi45 Hemi45 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Realgunner View Post
When I was an LE armorer, it was part of the inspection process for revolvers. If the cylinder would not open with just a gentle push after the thumbpiece was pushed fully forward, we'd have our S&W-trained head gunsmith look at it. Usually at least a little work, like stoning, was required. It's hard to describe what's right and what isn't, but when we used to handle dozens of revolvers on a daily basis, you could tell when one wasn't quite "right".
Actually, that makes perfect sense, thanks! I'll open/close it for a week and see how it feels. Any lingering doubts and I'll give S&W a call.

Last edited by Hemi45; 04-09-2014 at 08:00 PM.
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