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10-27-2014, 02:44 PM
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Is this a S & W 342ti ?
I picked this up a few years ago for a little over $500.00, including the CTC grips. from a fellow who lives a little SW of San Antonio. I, actually never shot it (it has been shot) and put it in the back of my safe.
Without dragging it out now, is this a pre-lock 342ti? If so, I would guess it to be a little rare. Is this model a little rare! What kind of grips would've originally came with the gun? It looks like the grips were longer (3-fingered grip) and rubber.
Thanks, Carl
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10-27-2014, 03:15 PM
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Sure looks like it is 342ti.
It would have come with Uncle Mike's boot grips. Some may have had an Altamont finger groove type grip (laminated?)
They are one of the best carry guns around. PM me if you want to get rid of it
I have one that I really like.
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10-27-2014, 03:19 PM
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Yes to all your questions; not very rare but sought after as a pre-lock gun. I think it had the three-groove rubber stocks but someone here has one and can tell you for sure.
Have a look at the yoke cutout to confirm the model number the next time you have it out .
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10-27-2014, 03:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by murphydog
Yes to all your questions; not very rare but sought after as a pre-lock gun. I think it had the three-groove rubber stocks but someone here has one and can tell you for sure.
Have a look at the yoke cutout to confirm the model number the next time you have it out .
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2 finger Uncle Mikes boot grips were stock for most of them but some came with S&W Dymondwood boot grips in the 1st year I believe.
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10-27-2014, 03:43 PM
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Thanks for the replies fellas. Sorry, it's not for sale SAFireman. It does make for a light carry-revolver!
The reason I think it came with rubber Hogue-like grips is the cutout for the grips in the case. Sure looks like some kind of 3-finger grip came on it. I guess it could have been Altamont or the S & W Dymondwood grips also if they were made in a 3-finger style.
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10-27-2014, 05:02 PM
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They usually came with the Uncle Mike's Boot grip. The cutout does not really mean anything. It is just a template to accommodate a wide variety of grips, because it is not just used for one gun.
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10-27-2014, 05:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 69HEMI-R/T
Thanks for the replies fellas. Sorry, it's not for sale SAFireman. It does make for a light carry-revolver!
The reason I think it came with rubber Hogue-like grips is the cutout for the grips in the case. Sure looks like some kind of 3-finger grip came on it. I guess it could have been Altamont or the S & W Dymondwood grips also if they were made in a 3-finger style.
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The Airlite Ti cases have a cutout that fits both a 2 finger boot grip and a 3 finger combat grip so the case wouldn't be able to tell you which grip the gun came with.
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10-27-2014, 05:29 PM
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Hemi,
Nice find. Bought mine new right after introduction. Yours has the four line logo so it is an early one also. They later went to the two line. Uncle Mikes were the OEM grips. The presentation case is somewhat generic and was made to accommodate different grips and guns. The UM rubber boot grips shown were the original grips.
You got a great deal. Cutting edge at the time they were costly little rascals with the MSRP around $750 area.
Last edited by KLYDE; 10-27-2014 at 05:45 PM.
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10-27-2014, 05:40 PM
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I have the 337ti same gun but with exposed hammer came with factory wood boot grips. Do not use hoppes to clean your 342 because it will hurt the finish. Don't use abrasives on the ti cylinder so the protective coating stays on. By the way I had a 69 Hemi Roadrunner back in 72-76.
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10-28-2014, 05:18 PM
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regalsc: Thanks for the info. I am happy with it. My Charger is a numbers-matching 1969 Hemi R/t
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10-28-2014, 06:14 PM
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Your car is beautiful . 4 speed or automatic? Dual quads & 9 3/4 Dana rearend. Worth well over $100K.
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10-30-2014, 05:17 PM
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Thanks for the compliments about my Charger. It is an Automatic (HD 727) and has the one it came from the factory with!
It also has the original 2-4bbl carbs and manifold it came with and has an 8 3/4 sure grip rear with 3.23 gears, all these are original factory equipment!
Finished (never really finished) a 5 year rotisserie restoration last fall. Every nut, bolt and screw was removed. Then, the body was acid-dipped to remove all rust and as much original equipment as we could, including all Chrysler nuts, bolts and screws were re-plated if necessary and used to rebuild the Charger.
It really is a stunning car in person. I have owned it for a long time (bought the Charger in 1976) so, yep, it's worth more than it cost me to restore it even though it was very expensive to restore! MOPARS are usually 3 times more expensive to restore than Fords or Chevys!
Sorry for the hijack !! I am proud of my Charger !!
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10-30-2014, 05:26 PM
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It's your thread! Plus I don't mind.
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10-30-2014, 06:07 PM
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The plug in the back was a pain to get to because of the brake booster. I used a string & a socket to fish it out. It was the only plug wire plug connector that would bend. You really took yours to a full restoration. They would love it here in the Woodward Cruise.
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10-30-2014, 07:02 PM
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OP, did you ever check out the yoke cut out? It's right there, in front of you.
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10-30-2014, 08:13 PM
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Thanks again for the "likes" on the post!
Anton, if you are referring to the hole in the radiator support, it was there when I bought the Charger and I left it rather than fill it in because it is right where the VIN numbers are stamped from the factory. From it's position, I am guessing one of the previous owners (2 before me) accidently touched the battery post with a big wrench or screwdriver and burned a hole in it. Not all that uncommon for us "shade tree mechanics) ! and it will burn a hole in the metal real quick
Funny to me that I am a member of a couple of MOPAR boards and you are the first person to notice or, at least, comment on it!
Also, to regalsc: if you look, my Charger is equipped with manual 11' drum brakes! You gotta PLAN to stop this beast! Ha! The master cylinder doesn't get in the way at all. That problem you describe existed on Hemicars with power brakes as the booster definitely got in the way!
The only thing that me and my friend did not do was rebuild the engine. I had it professionally rebuilt with custom parts including a one-off CompCams Hydraulic roller cam. also custom JE forged 11 to 1 pistons Manley rods SS valves new OEM rocker arms, ARP bolts through out. Only had to bore it .0030 and the crankshaft did not require turning down at all! Dynoed it after the rebuild and it put out 588hp @ 6500rpms and was still climbing when we shut it down! Snarly beast!
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10-31-2014, 11:03 AM
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If I might, Gentlemen; IIRC, do not use standard wire bore brushes in a Ti cylinder. And that's from S&W, too. The abrasive action of a wire brush can cut thru the outside "Oxide" finish on the Titanium, and when that happens, the metal underneath the cut will begin to degrade. Not sure exactly what happens, but it's not good. Metal Guys, please chime in on this. Just use a nylon brush and CLP to clean the chambers and cylinder. Info about it should be in the manual.
I am jealous, BtW. Nice find. In my neck of the woods, that's an $800 revolver. Used! I know, ridiculous price, huh? S&W pistols are popular in Texas.
Oh and about the '69 Charger...WOW! What a beauty!
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10-31-2014, 11:14 AM
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Very nice gun, AMAZING CAR!!!! Thanks for the photo's of both.
Be safe, Frank.
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10-31-2014, 12:54 PM
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Thanks for the compliments on my car and advice on cleaning the 342ti ! Just for grins here are a couple more pics of my Charger being restored . Also, a pic of a post-'81 Smith for good measure.
The first pic is a few years ago when we were first going back together with it! Yikes !
Second is going to the Dodge dealership for an alignment after all new front-end components were installed. It was delivered with F70-15 Firestone Redline Wide Ovals and full wheel covers back in 1969. No picture but I have 4 brand new original wheel covers for it.
Last is a picture of my 586 no-dash unfired outside the factory.
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