I have read some posts that discuss recent guns that have been made with a different bluing process and that S&W does not recommend alkaloid cleaning solutions like Hoppe's #9 for these newer guns.

I just bought a used blued gun without a trigger lock. No box or papers are included. I assume it is OK to use Hoppe's on the blued gun right?

Thx...

What model (including dash) revolver?

If it's a plain Jane pre-lock gun you're safe. Unless it's got an aluminium frame, nickel finish, or something uncommon, I wouldn't be concerned. Personally, I only ever apply Hoppe's to the bore or chambers. In 40 years of using it, it never even occurred to me to use it to clean a gun's exterior.

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~ S&W aficionado in training ~

What did you use to clean off your guns?

I only use a gun oil to clean the exterior surfaces, and it's been Break Free for many years. There are a few brands of oil wipes in a pop-up dispenser that I like, although they're more expensive to use.

Back in the day, 3-in-1 oil. Whatever household oil we had laying around. Since the '80's I've used mostly CLP, but I try a lot of things. Ballistol is #1 in my rotation, now days. No kidding, I probably have 10 kinds of gun oil - that that's not counting bore solvents. I've just always treated Hoppe's as something kind of aggressive, a bore solvent, to be used to remove lead, copper, and fouling.

__________________
~ S&W aficionado in training ~

Great post, and honestly why would you ???

To get lead off the front of the cylinder, under side of the top strap and around the rear of the barrel. "Back in the day" I even immersed my 29-2 in a quart of the early Hoppe's #9 with benzene for a week or two. It came out clean as a whistle! Hoppe's #9 does not harm real, meaning iron trioxide or "rust", bluing. Contrary to persistent but incorrect rumor S&W did not use a copper under plate so Hoppe's #9 does not harm their nickeled revolvers either.

While I do not know if there have been production runs that have the replacement for rust bluing combined with no lock I would not use the absence a lock to determine the type of bluing. I'm not sure if this is a reliable way either but the new finish on my Model 10-14 is much darker.

'When did S&W change their bluing process for EPA concerns'?

If you were referring to the 'Carbonia Blue" process I believe it was around mid 1970s?

Found this old forum post about the S&W bluing..
http://smith-wessonforum.com/1052575-post6.html

__________________
NEVER GIVE UP YOUR GUN

The thread was about the change to the current finish that superseded rust or iron trioxide bluing. It was not about changes in the way rust bluing was done. However, the old thread is interesting.

PLEASE DELETE This was applied to the wrong thread

Here is an interesting post that will provide you with some information on the old Carbonia bluing Smith used years ago.

http://smith-wessonforum.com/1052575-post6.html

If you use the search tool on the forum and enter “Carbonia” you will find a lot of interesting information

Is it fact that S & W does not recommend Hoppes #9 on newer blued guns? anyone have something in writing from them? Have been using it on my 586-8 for almost two years now and don't see any problem. Use it to scrub both ends of the cylinder, underneath top strap, and around forcing cone.

Inputs appreciated from the wealth of knowledge on the S&W forum.

I have used #9 on my recent made model 57 blue gun without a problem.

American Outdoor Brands Corporation
( Caldwell,Tipton,Uncle Henry etc)

vs

Vista Outdoor
(Hoppes.Outters,Gunslick,MP Pro7 etc)

say no more.............