Hi folks,

I am looking to enter the wonderful world of .44 Mag, and have a M69 on order at the LGS, but feel like an N-frame is also a must for the collection.

I feel like the 4" or 5" is the perfect barrel length for a first acquisition, but would appreciate any advice on model variations.

I'm looking for a shooter grade gun, M29 or 629, but don't have enough experience to know which revision I should be looking for.

Opinions welcome from the experts or the enthusiasts !!!

If you don't N-Frame yet anything you get would be considered a starter.

For a shooting model 29, the best values out there seem to be a blue/nickel 29-3 or a stainless 629-1; these seem to be most plentiful in nice condition and at reasonable prices. A 4" will be the most expensive of regular production ones and a 5" (if you find one, not of these types) even higher than those.

__________________
Alan
SWCA LM 2023, SWHF 220

I would suggest a m29 in nickel with a 6 1/2" barrel. For ccw carrying a shoulder holster works fine. I suggest the 6 1/2" barrel is very comfortable to shoot. For your first revolver in 44 mag the power to balance ratio is perfect. Plus it's a very impressive show piece too. She's a cannon with no wheels. I like the 6" barrels too. Just hold one and feel the balance. In blue or nickel since nickel finish is being phased out I'd go with the nickel first. It seems the blued guns will be phased out in time too.
The stainless will take it's place. The nickel and blue will be more valuable in the near future. One N Frame won't be acceptable once you shoot your first one.
I have a new m29-10 in blue it was used, unshot and half the cost of new. Can't pass up a gift from the gun gods. Plus I had a roll of mad money with me. Just stay browsing.

The original Model 29 was superseded by the Model 29-1 in 1960, with modifications made to the ejector-rod screw. The Model 29-2 replaced it the following year, with one screw that had secured the cylinder-stop spring being deleted. The barrel length was shortened from 6 1/2" to 6" in 1979. These two versions are known as "pinned and recessed". "Pinned" means that the barrels are screwed in, and additionally secured by a pin driven through the frame and a notch in the barrel. "Recessed" denotes the rear of the bored cylinder holes being recessed, so that when loaded the cartridge rims are fully enclosed by the cylinder. In 1982, the cost-cutting Model 29-3 dropped recessed cylinders and pinned barrels for crush-fit barrels.[1]

The -4 and -5, produced from 1988 and 1990 respectively had changes to improve durability for heavy use. In 1994 the 29-6 began production, now fitted as standard with rubber Monogrips from Hogue to replace the previous wooden items, standard tapped holes also being provided for attaching scope mounts. The 29-7 started production in 1998 with changes to the locking mechanism, the firing pin's attachment, and a hammer and trigger produced with a metal injection molding process.[1]
Model Start Year Barrel Lengths Modifications
29 1957 6 1/2"
29-1 1960 6 1/2" ejector rod screw
29-2 1961 6 1/2" changed to 6" in 1979 one screw that had secured the cylinder stop spring dropped
29-3 1982 dropped recessed cylinders and pinned barrels for crush-fit barrels
29-4 1988
29-5 1990
29-6 1994 standard with rubber Monogrips from Hogue
29-7 1998 changes to the locking mechanism, the firing pin's attachment, and a hammer and trigger produced with a metal injection molding process.
29-8
29-9
29-10

There are good reasons why 29-3s and 629-1s are the least expensive. Lower dash 29s and no-dash 629s are pinned and recessed and thus recognizably earlier revolvers so they are sought after by collectors. To correct shortcomings revealed by 220 meter silhouette competition the accuracy and durability of .44 magnums was improved starting with 629-2Es about 1989. The endurance package was mostly for warmed up heavy bullet reloads but reducing throat diameters and cutting a smaller forcing cone improved accuracy at all power levels. Everything Elmer Keith claimed to have done pre-dated the up grades so pre-endurance package .44 magnums weren’t trash, but the up grades were significant for those who focus on accuracy or warm 300 grain loads.

Usually LGSs price similar looking non-P&Red 629s the same regardless of their vintage. I suggest taking advantage of that and buying a dash 3 or later 629. Stainless steel revolvers are much easier to clean because you can rub them with bronze wool till the cows come home without affecting their finish. Barrel length is strictly personal preference but since you already ordered a 69 it’s very unlikely you’d ever carry the N frame concealed so you may as well chose your barrel for target shooting and hunting.

Gunbroker has a long list of M29s, some as low as 500 bucks, you shouldn't have any problem finding an N frame that's useful to you.

Big Bill, I'll take at face value the concept that you're a larger man than I am because if I ever tried to conceal a 6.5" N frame I'd have to wear a trench coat!

I like that but I have to admit that I never was overly fond of my 3" M629. I always thought it was clunky in various ways and I don't feel that way about my M27 or M25.

But, yes, everyone needs at least one N frame! I think........

***GRJ***

I got my first about a year ago. 629-1, 6inch. Near perfect condition. I paid 600 for it, but got 200 rounds of ammo plus 200 empty brass and a shoulder rig with it. So I figure it's a 500 dollar gun. I shoot light target loads in it. Feels like a .38 out of a magnum, I can shoot it for hours pain free. Accurate and foolproof. I love it.

This 629-3 Classic with 5" barrel has everything I need and want in a .44 mag.

Regardless of where this was copied and pasted from, this is a very misleading clause. Excepting the fairly new round barrel inside a sleeve assemblies used on models like the 69, non-pinned S&W barrels are fitted to the frame exactly the same as pinned barrels. The barrels are easily spun in until their shoulder contacts the frame 1/10 to 1/8 of a revolution short of aligning the rib and sight vertically. Using appropriate fixtures to avoid warping the frame the barrel is turned to 12 O’clock pressing the shoulder very tight against the frame. The slots milled across the barrel thread were generous enough to allow fitting barrels to random frames and still let the pins to pass freely through. The pins are only tight in the frame’s holes. Ordinarily the pins do not touch the barrels. They could only stop gross movement of a loose barrel.

IT APPEARS THAT THE ATTRACTION OF P&R REVOLVERS IS BASED MORE ON MYTH THAN FACT. SADLY, SMOKE AND MIRRORS HAVE BEEN TRANSFORMED INTO A LEGEND………

__________________
'Nam 1968-69.DAV,VFW,NRA Inst.

[QUOTE=ISCS Yoda;138229560]Gunbroker has a long list of M29s, some as low as 500 bucks, you shouldn't have any problem finding an N frame that's useful to you.

Big Bill, I'll take at face value the concept that you're a larger man than I am because if I ever tried to conceal a 6.5" N frame I'd have to wear a trench coat!

I've shoulder holstered a 7 1/2" redhawk every winter and a 5 1/2" most of the summer. Right now I just picked up a 10 1/2" super black with a shoulder holster. I have the full length black leather duster for the 10 1/2" barrel. But anyone of my big shirts should hide it.

I'm a sucker for the 3" N frames. Accuracy from my 3" 629-4 is plenty good, too.

IIRC Big Bill works on a gun range so he doesn’t have to fear being fired if his CCW is spotted at work. That 10 ½” Black Hawk might be a little risky for a lot of employees who work wearing job mandated clothing.

Most of the people my age probably started with a 6" - 6 1/2" barreled magnum. Its a good all around length to get started with. After spending some time shooting it, you will know if you want to go shorter or longer. A 4" magnum 44 and factory ammo may not be all that much fun for some shooters.

Thanks for all of the input, everyone; you've given me some great info to mull over !

I purchased the 10 1/2" barrel mainly for hunting. But it needs to get some fresh air and go for a walk. Midway had the 10 1/2" shoulder and hip holster on clearance for $35. I guess the 10 1/2" barrels aren't popular.

Does this mean the no dash and the -1 were "four screw" guns?

__________________
~ S&W aficionado in training ~

My first was a 4" 29-3, and I think that's a great place to start, with the 6" a close second.

I would suggest a 629 6". The 4" barrel is a compromise for carrying purposes (who does that day to day?), but the real shooter is the 6" (or 5", if you can find one). That length makes the gun more reasonable to shoot.

It depends on what your intended purpose for the 629 is,

I like the 4" for the "Jack of all trades, master of none" spot in my roster.

Range Gun: 6" -8 3/8"

Woods: 4"-5"

CCW: 3"-4"

I suppose that the M69 will fill my carry and woods needs, so a 5"-6" barrel would make more sense in this case.

I was initially considering a 4" because my 586 4" is such a sweet all-around package.

Also, I think the 4" N-frame is one of the best-looking guns around. It just looks 'right' to my eyes.