I do not have a 586 and am thinking I want,-don`t need-, just want ,one.
I would like the best deepest blue,best fit and finish. I`ll probably not shoot it much, so like Chief Dan George and his rock candy, in Josey Wales, I`ll just like to look at it .
So which one has the best finish, and how much should I pay?
Thanks, Jack

AFAIK, with the 586, blued is blued. There were no "grades" of blue. You may find production variations where the quality of the finish on one is better than than on another, but that isn't intentional.

The 586-4 has forged parts, the new-style rear sight (D&T'd top strap) and no IL. I think it'll be more about what's available than what you want. Depending on condition - anywhere from $550 to $750.

Adios,

Pizza Bob

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NRA Benefactor Member

There isn't a particular iteration of the 586 reputed to have the best fit and finish. You'll have to determine on a revolver-by-revolver basis as you search.

Too, there's isn't a hard, set price to advise you pay -- factors including configuration (barrel length, round or square butt), condition, included extras like original box, tools and docs, where it's for sale, dispositions of seller and buyer, etc. make for several variables.

In general, I'd suggest you look at the 1980 through 1996 era -- 586 no dash though 586-5. There are various small engineering changes throughout these runs; none is significant enough to me to make one better over another.

Bluing quality may vary some from gun to gun, but in general you'll find they all have the less time-intensive, more utilitarian blue compared to earlier eras. By the advent of the 586, S&W had changed its bluing process to a slightly less reflective, more true blue compared to the highly reflective gray-black of the '70s and earlier.

There was a mid-80s recall of the 586 to replace the firing pin bushing; an "M" stamp on the crane denotes whether this update has been performed. It shouldn't affect your purchase decision whether or not a particular piece has it; if you find one you like without the "M", S&W still offers the warranty work on their dime, and many run their 586s without the warranty work to no ill-effect.

Broadly speaking, for a very good to excellent 586, gun alone, I'd be prepared to pay $650 to $750, all depending. Alway a chance you'll find a deal for less, but I wouldn't go over that except for a collectible quality example with the factory trimmings, or one of the exceptionally uncommon snubbies.

All 586 up to and including the -4 models have forged internal parts and are finished the same (except for a few distributor exclusive models in matte/bead blast blue). My six inch -4 model has an exceptionally nice polish and looks almost Python like. The -3 eight and three eights inch I own is more typical. You need to examine the guns in person if depth of finish is your highest priority.

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Virtue,Liberty & Independence

Most I have seen have some of smiths best finishing efforts.Really good guns.I like em.One of the better ones to stare at.
kitman

For the most part I agree with Pizza Bob, Hapworth, and steamloco 76. You'll likely find nice bluing on about any vintage of 586 but I prefer the dash-3 or older models. The nickel is nice too. Don't worry about the "M" stamp/recall for the early guns (no dash and dash-1). The price range could be $300 for something beat up or you get very lucky, and could run as high as $1200 for a NIB 4" no-dash or an excellent condition 2-1/2". Pizza Bob's estimate of $550-$750 for an excellent condition 4"-6" is probably about right. The 4", 8-3/8", and the nickel guns seem to be valued higher than 6".
John

In 1987 S&W recalled no-dash and dash-1 586's and 686's because with certain .357 magnum loads the primers expanded towards the hammer nose bushing causing the cylinder to bind. S&W stamped a "M" on the frame juxtaposed to the yoke on those revolvers sent back for modification. Many never sent their revolvers back for the modification. The rumor is that only Federal .357 with soft primers were prone to do this. I shoot with someone who has a no-dash 586 without the "M" and has shot different .357 ammo through it with no problems. Other member at this forum have had a similar experience (i.e. no problems with a non-modified gun).

586-2 4"


"Special" 7-shot 586 from 2004


586-3 8-3/8"

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Scoundrel & Ne'er-Do-Well

My 586 no-dash has a modern factory blue. I had S&W re-blue it 2 years ago.

The modern blue wasn't noticeably different than the original 1980 finish.

The bluing on older guns - 1970's and earlier - seems to be the best finish, where you can see "depth" in the finish.


An application of Ren-Wax can improve the finish quite a bit.

This is my modern blue finish 586 no-dash with Ren-Wax:

May I ask how much S&W charged for this service? I have a 586 no dash shipped in 84 that is mechanically like new but has some blueing wear from being carried as a KY state police sidearm for years.

The Standard Blue is $220, plus you pay shipping both ways because it isn't warranty work.
The nice thing is that you should be able to ship directly to them and back to your door without going through a dealer.

I shipped mine via FedEx and they were able to deliver it right back to my house. Per FedEx regulations, you have to inform the employee that there is a gun in the box.
Also, overnight shipping was required.

P.S.
Be aware that if your revolver has any PD markings on it, they may be removed by the stripping process, so you may lose any stamping, markings, etc.
the S&W logo on my side plate was actually removed and had to be re-stamped.

It's on their website under Performance Center, Precision Gunsmithing.

In my humble knuckle dragging opinion the L frame S&W is the platform (don't tell my N frame .357 Magnums I said this) for the .357 Magnum cartridge. I would venture an agreement with the other posters on a dash four and back model.

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Stay safe people!

From my observations, the red ramp front sight is the most common configuration and is integral to the barrel. There are fewer with Patridge front sights that are pinned, and apparently the early ones were also integral with the barrel. The earlier information is very good and should help you make up your mind. For me, it is usually the matter of what you find first when you are looking, like whatever the configuration, price and availability. The 586s and 686s have been very good guns from day one.

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Richard Gillespie
FBINA 102

My 586 is a pretty early model. AAA serial number, and the logo still stamped on the right side plate instead of the left side of the frame. They changed the location of the logo stamp some time during no-dash production.
The original factory barrel had a pinned high-patridge sight on it.
I had a later 686 no-dash with an integral red ramp on it.

My 586 is a 4" no dash from 1983. The closest age gun I have to this one is a 14-3. The blue quality on the 14 is MUCH deeper & richer looking. Maybe as a target gun, more attention was given. I have had my 586 around 2 yrs. Have under $450 into it. Bob

I have an early 8-3/8 bbl version and recently picked up a current production 6" version because I was so impressed with the quality on the new version, trigger needed no work and especially the machine work, polish, and blue were exceptional. Very impressed, so unless you are set in a prelock gun don't rule out the current production. The current production wood grips are very nice too.

I have an older AAP serial number 581 from '82, bluing is excellent quality, not as nice on the cylinder as the frame and barrel, but it's a service gun.

I have a 586 L Comp. It is one sweet shooting and handling gun. The action and trigger have been "Carmonized" by Mike Carmoney. I cannot tell you haw amazing the work is, I had no idea it was possible to do this to a trigger on a revolver.

Even without the work, it is an amazing PC gun and the only 3 inch blued 357 that SW currently makes.

I have 6 357 K/L frames that I carry and they comprise 90% of my carry rotation. This 586 L Comp is very present in my carry rotation and gets carried often. Carried it the last 3 days, but today I am carrying my 386 Night Guard.

After I installed the Fiber Optic Sight:





Factory original sight. Black blade offered little contrast. But looks much nicer than the fiber optic: