Model 38-2 hard to pull the hammer for single action firing

Willymatt

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Hi,

I recently picked up a model 38 that seems to be in excellent condition, and fired very little. I haven't shot it yet, except for dry firing with snap caps. Today I took it out to go to the range, and noticed it is very difficult to pull the hammer back.

It was made in 1993 and I'm guessing it was not fired very much, since everything is very tight and it essentially looks brand new.

So, I'm wondering if I should take off the side plate and just give it a good cleaning, or if ya'll have any other suggestions.

Thank you for any info,
Matt
 
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Just wanted to put an update...I disassembled the revolver and cleaned the internals, but it's still difficult to cock the revolver. I just compared it side by side to my model 60 and it seems like the resistance is the same. Maybe it just feels a little more difficult since the shrouded hammer doesn't allow as much purchase as the 60.

The inside of the gun was clean for the most part, so I'm guessing I just need to put some rounds through it and see if things loosen up a bit.

If anyone has any more insight, though, I'd like to hear it.

Thanks,
Matt
 
Very nice J you have there. :)

Yeah, it probably needs to be "broken in" and a little grease wouldn't hurt. I'd be willing to help you brake it in! :D
 
Last edited:
Very nice J you have there. :)

Yeah, it probably needs to be "broken in" and a little grease wouldn't hurt. I'd be willing to help you brake it in! :D

That was something else I was wondering about, if grease would cause problems down the road. I cleaned everything with Ballistol and wiped most of it off, just leaving a thin film, hoping that would help smooth things out a bit. Hope to hit the range this week.

Thanks for the reply,
Matt
 
Don't give up on your Bodyguard. It can be difficult at times to cock the hammer. You had it right: the nub of the hammer spur makes it hard to get a purchase on it for SA firing. On any new hammer gun, I fire the first cylinderful single action and then fire double action.

It may help to do meaningful dry-fire practice with an empty gun that's been double- and triple-checked with the ammunition in another room. I never overlube my revolvers; I have never felt or seen the need.

I might want to fire service ammunition for practice in your aluminum frame gun, that or target wadcutters. When you become more accustomed to your gun, it will become easier to hand-cock the hammer nub. Frankly, I would only use SA fire with the model 38 when shooting from a rest to check point-of-aim. Good shooting.

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103

P.S. I absolutely adore the shrouded hammer Bodyguards. Many others do not see a need. Enjoy yours!
 
Reminds me of the 38-2 that i bought at CABELAS it was beautiful . Brought it home and as always started do a detailed strip of any use gun . light oil of internals and reassemble, then light polish the outside . opened the crane turned gun upside down and noticed a scratch on the frame under the barrel
ran a finger nail over it and felt a deep scratch, .Got out H.I.light and scratch turned out to be a crack. .Took it back to Cabelas and they returned my money without a problem .
Have been hearing several stories of the same problem with alum. frame "J"frames .Some think the crack is caused from rapid firing , heating up the steel barrel and the frame being Alum. expanding at a different rate causing the frame to crack . I don't know but i sure was in love with that gun too bad.
 
I had my Model 638 Airweight for a couple years now and just recently installed a Apex duty/carry spring kit in it. I stoned the rebound slide with a extra fine stone. I also put a drop of gun lube under the rebound slide. Double action is a bit lighter than originally. Pulling back the hammer is a little heavy but I know in time this revolver will settle in just like my Model 686 Plus.
 
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