I have had this K22 for about 25 years, bought it used for $225 for my wife. Kids came along and it sat idle for about 20 years. Using it now. It works perfectly except that...

After around 5-6 cylinders of CCI Minimags extraction becomes very sticky.

I always clean within a day or so after shooting. Long ago I used Hoppes #9. Today I use high tech cleaners like CLP.

Any ideas what I can do about the sticky extraction?

Some S&W cylinder chambers are know to be under sized. To bring them up to SAAMI specification you may have to ream the chambers.

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I'd polish the chambers. Electric drill, wooden dowel, tight fitting cotton patch, something like Flitz, Iosso, Mother's. Go to town. Put a mirror finish on those chamber walls and see how it works after that. BTW, this is a common problem with many rimfire revolvers.

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~ S&W aficionado in training ~

Try different ammo types before anything else. CCIs Mini Mags stick in my 17; Federals and CCI Standard Velocity don't.

My 17-3 is in need of this treatment - thanks for the instructions.

Sticky ejection (heh!) happens with every brand of ammo I've tried (5-6) but is the worst with those that are heavily waxed or lubed.

CCI Mini Mags are a freckle longer than LR's. .22's are filthy. That may be the problem too.

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Eccentric old coot

When I take mine to the range I also take along a short 4" pistol bore rod and a brush . About every 50 rounds I dry brush the chambers .
Takes all of 30 seconds and no sticky extraction .

I've owned 5 or 6 K-22's and one 17. All seemed to experience this after a while.

I used a chamber brush.

A question for some K-22 experts. Will dry firing one allow the firing pin to hit the chamber walls causing an indention into the chamber?

Never, ever, forever DRY FIRE A RIMFIRE!

On a rim fire revolver, the firing pin will impact with edge of the cartridge hole of the cylinder forming a ding and will shorten your firing pin. Constant dry firing will require you to bring down the edge of the bump on the cylinder and either you will have to replace the firing pin or it will have to be peened to lengthen it back to spec's.

CCIs stick in my 17. Other brands of 22 are fine. It is likely the waxy ammo.

There have been many posts over the years on this problem and yes the K22's seem to have it more than the later model 17's. I agree that taking a cleaning rod and bore brush is a good solution and running it through the chambers every 50 to 100 rounds works well.

Before investing in reamers and tools, I would try switching ammo. CCI likes to lube their bullets heavy sometimes and that could be the cause of your problem. Always start with the easiest fix first.

And, as some of the posters here have stated, NEVER DRY FIRE YOUR RIM FIRE GUNS!! Doing so will insure that you will have a broken gun at some point. If you want to do dry fire practice, use snap caps or fired rounds to cushion the hit of the firing pin. With your center fire Smith's, dry fire away. You will wear out your finger before you wear out the gun.

I have used every brand of ammo available over the past 30 years, and it was always a problem after just a few cylinder-fulls. This was with 6 different S&W .22's, J and K frame. I bought the reamer and I now can eject all the empties with just a single thumb. Accuracy remains exactly the same. Best tool investment I made last year.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

I have several 17,18, and 617's that are sticky also, Some are worse than others. I ordered the finish reamer from Brownells a couple months back and it was backordered. Showed up lastweek and hope to give it a try this week. At the same time I got the muzzle crown and the forcing crown reamers, I got a 4in 617-1 that would buildup lead really bad around the barrel/frame. It would build up on both sides equally so it wasn't a timing issue. Cut a new forcing cone which I don't think was even there and did the muzzle crown also and the leading stopped and accuracy improved greatly. Best $$ I have spent in awhile.

Thanks for all the good feedback

I will proceed to ...
1. try different types of ammo,
2. carry a small cleaning rod & brush to range and clean as necessary,
3. maybe polish chambers with flitz

Then, if/when it comes time to use the reamer, are there detailed instructions around? Is this something I should attempt myself?

Reaming the chambers is so easy a monkey could do it. If you can turn a screwdriver; you will have no problem.

Just be sure to use plenty of cutting oil, and keep the cylinder securely in a padded vice.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

I have one 617 that will shoot until feel guilty and clean it without sticky chambers. It is the only Smith .22 I have ever had that will just keep on working. All the others need some brushing sometime during a trip to the range.I don't shoot enough .22 to justify buying the reamers, but it might be worth while for the other 617.

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Richard Gillespie
FBINA 102