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How many rounds/timing issues
- Thread starter Robert B
- Start date
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Afternoon Robert
It depends:
My early S&W's never seem to go out of time even after tens of thousands of rounds
But my last 686 7 shot (early 2014 build date) went just under 500 rounds & had to go back to Smith for late timing on 2 holes. Was OK single action but wouldn't quite lock up at slow double action pull on 2 holes.
It wasn't the hand as those are tough as snails nuts, the problem was in the ratchet star as it looked like it was machined with an ax & dull rock.
When I got it back from Smith it locked up real early on 3 holes, in fact so early that the double action pull was horrendous on 2 of those 3 holes.
I had to stone the ratchet star & put a fair amount of time into getting the lock-up even on all holes (locks up good now with little drag in double action)
HarrishMasher
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4,568 rounds.
Seriously though, I don't think anyone could possibly answer that question. Way too many variables. Ammo, other parts, other part wear patterns. I'm sure for some folks it is a few thousand. For some they might have shot 15,000 rounds and the timing is still perfect. You will just have to wait it out.
Seriously though, I don't think anyone could possibly answer that question. Way too many variables. Ammo, other parts, other part wear patterns. I'm sure for some folks it is a few thousand. For some they might have shot 15,000 rounds and the timing is still perfect. You will just have to wait it out.
Kernel Crittenden
US Veteran
IINM, I believe the specs for the original M686 CS-1's had something in them about 10,000 rounds. Those guns had some special TLC, but it gives you an idea of what's possible.
Would be interesting to know with which round it got those specs...
Kernel Crittenden
US Veteran
I don't really know, but it was a .357 Magnum revolver, so I'd suppose that's what it was meant to shoot. There's been sooooooooo much written about CS-1 guns it probably wouldn't be too hard to find out what the intended/approved/issued load was. I doubt it was a sleeper.
05CarbonDRZ
SWCA Member
When the Gun is out of time the cylinder will not be locked in place when the Hammer drops.The ideal timing is for the Cylinder to lock up a split second before the hammer drops.If it locks up too early the action will not be as smooth as it could be,too late and you are shaving lead.
I stopped counting at 12,000 rounds in my mid -1980's 686 Smith 6". Granted, 90% of those rounds were downloaded double-enders & SWC's, but she was still running like a Swiss Watch after all those rounds. Never went out of time, or needed any part replaced. After multiple detailed cleanings with Flitz, she looked like a million bucks...Like a jerk I sold it to a co-worker...grrrr
BobC357
Member
My mod 28-2 is 40+ years old and over 100,000 .357s through it. No problems yet. Smith & Wesson builds tough revolvers. You should be fine.
BigBill
Absent Comrade
I lube the hand and the star wheel on the rear of the cylinder with moly. Don't leave out the cylinder loc pin, the cylinder stud, the yoke and the metal to metal contact moving parts under the side plate besides the sear.
Moly eliminates all wear
Reduces friction
Prevents galling
Fights corrosion
My guns never leave home without moly in them. I refuse to let my guns wear out when it can be prevented if we use the correct lube.
If your seeing any wear at all your lube isn't working.
Moly eliminates all wear
Reduces friction
Prevents galling
Fights corrosion
My guns never leave home without moly in them. I refuse to let my guns wear out when it can be prevented if we use the correct lube.
If your seeing any wear at all your lube isn't working.
Last edited:
keithherrington
Member
Properly set up, the gun should wear-in, not wear-out. The best example I can give is my Model 17-5 I use in Bullseye. I had the action tuned by the Performance Center and over the years the gun has just gotten more smooth and predictable. The timing was and still is spot on. I disagree with an earlier post that the hammer should drop just after the cylinder locks. This is a very personal issue when shooting DA. Many competitors, usually those that pull straight through, want that "early" drop type action. Others, especially those that like to shoot timed and rapid DA and not SA, want what is called an "early come-up" where the cylinder locks and then there is a long-ish pull of the trigger before hammer release. I shoot mine like this and treat that final pull more or less like a single stage trigger. I don't know which is better but I do know that with an early come-up, the gun has a lot further to go before is wears to the point where the timing is late.
Keith
Keith
MichiganScott
Member
Remember, lifetime warranty.
BigBill
Absent Comrade
If you look at the star on the rear of the cylinder on some of the used revolvers there mushroomed on the corners that were once square.
Just try some moly on the loc pin, loc pin ramp and see how the opening and closing gets easier to function.
Just try some moly on the loc pin, loc pin ramp and see how the opening and closing gets easier to function.
