Hi everyone,

I have a 686-5+ 2.5", and I really want to change it over to the 4" barrel. I have a barrel in my crosshairs, but then I realized that the ejector rod is not full size on the 2.5" model. I have been having trouble finding the ejector rod, so I was thinking of just buying a full 6 shot assembly and harvesting the rod.

My question is: Will I need JUST the rod for the conversion to the 4" barrel? Or will I also need the 7 groove star piece that the rod attaches to. I'm not sure if that 7 groove star piece is universal, or if that too is shorter on the 2.5 inch model. If it is salvageable, what year(s) would be compatible with my gun?

Also, If there is no way to salvage just the rod, does anyone know where I can get the whole assembly for the 7 shot model? I called smith and Wesson and they have them on back order.

Thank you in advance, this rod has put a damper on my aspirations, and has become a pain in my ***.

My friend "Allenframe" just did the conversion so would suggest PM'ing him for advice...

I hope you understand it's not just a simple barrel swap, ejector rod swap correct? The barrel will need to be indexed and turned down for correct B/C Gap also. Don't want to be a negative Nancy, but why not just leave it alone? By the time you spend the time and money to get it done right, you're 3/4ths of the way to a factory fit 686, 4 inch. HTH c good

Yeah, I will message him and see what he has to say, thanks.

@cgood, well, I can get a barrel for around 80 bucks and I know a really good gunsmith who can do it for 40-50, so it's really not cost effective for me to buy a new gun. Also, I love the 686-5. It's the year before the lock and the first year they drilled and tapped the guns. I only want the -5 and don't wanna go lookin for a new one.

It's also the first year that they gave them a frame mounted firing pin, and MIM parts, which I prefer.

You ain't from around these parts are ya pardner????

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Forum consigliere

No, that would be the -4 in 1993. It was the first standard production M686 to be D&T.

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~ S&W aficionado in training ~

2.5 barrel guns are considerably more sought after right now, you could probably trade to a 4 incher and get some boot, but if you wish to put money and time into barrel swapping, have at it, it is your gun, money and time.

Yeah, I meant the first model. From my research, the -5 was the first to have the metal dust parts put in em. Either way, it's got everything I want and is the perfect generation in my opinion.

Why would the 2.5" model be sought after? There's gotta be someone that can answer my question. When the extraction rod is taken out of the wheel, there is two parts(plus springs). One is the rod itself, and the other is the star shaped thing that screws into the rod and extracts the shells. All I need to know is if that star shaped piece for the 2.5" is uniform to the ones on the larger barrel lengths.

First, I have to agree that it would make most sense to find a 4" gun to trade for. Barrel swapping is usually not cost-effective.

Now, a little nomenclature lesson. The "star-shaped thing" is the extractor. Other than the cylinder, yoke and gas ring the remailing pieces of the cylinder assembly are: Extractor rod, extractor spring (the larger one), center pin, center pin spring, and extractor rod collar. S&Ws, and revolvers do not have ejectors, in spite of the fact that even on this forum probably 75% of the members incorrectly use that term!

To make the barrel change you will need, obviously, the barrel, extractor rod and center pin for the longer barrels. Nominally there are two lengths, for 4" and longer, and shorter than 4". The extractor is the same for all variationswith the same charge hole count.

There is one final item you will need, this is a gunsmith with the proper tools and knlwledge to do a barrel switch correctly! This is not simply a matter of changing parts, much more complicated than that. Not only does the barrel have to be fit to the frame with the proper amount of "draw", the barrel-cylinder gap must be adjusted, the center pin may need to be fit for length, and the extractor rod must also be fit for length so that the gun will open properly!

Either you can pay a local $300+ to do the work and hope it is right, send the gun to S&W and pay them about the same amount plus shipping both ways (about $100 additional) and know the work was done by someone who knows how, and has the tools, or trade it for a 4" for probably $200 boot. Maybe you will get lucky and can do a straight trade! Which makes the most sense now?????

If I were to find someone that wanted to do the trade, how would one go about doing so?

Obviously we won't be able to just mail the guns to each other. What is the protocol for such a thing?

Thank you for your time

My guess would be that it has something to do with all the conceal carry permits which have recently skyrocketed. People want guns they can carry and a 2.5" fills that bill nicely.

I've been searching for a S&W .357 2.5" snub for several months and found a nice SS Colt King Cobra 2.5" in a pawn shop a couple of days ago for $999. I have been seeing the 4" and 6" models selling for about $1000. - $1200., so I assumed it was a good deal.

Yesterday, I joined the Colt forum to ask a few questions about my Colt and found out the 2.5" King Cobras are extremely hard to find and when then can be found, they're selling in the neighborhood of $3500. (without a box or paperwork)!!! A couple of the forum members PM'ed me and offered to "take it off my hands" for $2000. right now.

I wouldn't mess with that S&W 2.5" if it were me.

Depends on what state you live in. In most free states if you meet face-to-face (FTF) you can just swap guns without any fanfare or government paperwork. (This is what's known as the "gunshow loop hole", BTW).

To facilitate this, start a thread on the Sale/Trade section of this forum and state "FTF only", and any conditions you have, like 4-inch gun plus some amount of cash ($200). Include lots of good pictures of your gun. You will, of course, have to state where you live.

If you're willing to trade with someone who's out of state you should both go thru a FFL local to you. A FFL is a Federally licences gun deal. A FFL must be used if the guns cross state lines. You'll fill out some paperwork, a background check, pay the FFL some fee, pay for the shipping, and the FFL will ship your gun and receive the other gun from the out-of-state FFL.

My FFL charges $10 and actual shipping costs. I've done a couple of trades with gents on this forum and have been very happy with the results. All the deals were straight-across and went thru FFL's.

Again, open a thread on the Sell/Trade page, same as before, and state you will ship thru a FFL and all cost will be handled by each party on their end.

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~ S&W aficionado in training ~

Thanks for all the good info guys, it was much appreciated! I'm gonna just leave the snub alone and see about a trade.