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07-22-2015, 04:49 AM
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Model 10 Malfunctions
I am having problems with my Model 10 revolver. I had to qualify at the Sheriffs range in Joliet Illinois, and I had 5 misfires out of 30 with my Model 10 revolver. I was shooting double action, and the firing pin failed to strike the primer on 5 out of a total of 30 rounds. I also had the same type of misfires with my Model 317 revolver.
I do not understand why S&W has the moving of floating firing pin on some of their revolvers now. It seams as though the old Hammer/Firing pin combination is or was the best. I never had a misfire or malfunction with the Hammer/Firing pin type combination. The Model 317 was sent back to S&W for a safety check and repairs. I guess now I will have to send them my Model 10 in for repairs too. The Model 10 I have had only 300 to 400 rounds of plain .38 caliber lead nose bullets fired through it. My main concern is that I could have been in big trouble, if and when I might have had to use these 2 weapons for self defense !
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07-22-2015, 07:02 AM
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This question would be better asked in the revolver forum...
But the Model 10 IS the original M&P (revolving) pistol...
Check that the screw on the forward side of the grip is tight. It tensions the hammer spring. If it's backed out or otherwise been "adjusted", it can cause a light strike.
I don't understand the design change to the floating pin either, but there must be a case that it's a safer design.
Hope this helps.
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07-22-2015, 07:44 AM
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Does it show signs of pin contact with the case head, around the primer but not the primer itself?
Easiest way to tell if it is slightly off time in double action or if it is a main spring issue
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07-22-2015, 07:56 AM
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Oh heck, I'll be the first one on this particular thread to ask - what brand of ammunition were you using?
Some one had to do it, as this kind of post rarely includes that information.
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07-22-2015, 08:35 AM
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I agree that the mainspring tension screw, located in the front of the grip frame, should be tightened. If it doesnt go in anymore, replace the mainspring. It is a simple fix for this fairly common problem.
Jim
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07-22-2015, 08:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimbo728
I agree that the mainspring tension screw, located in the front of the grip frame, should be tightened. If it doesnt go in anymore, replace the mainspring. It is a simple fix for this fairly common problem.
Jim
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And, depending on any previous ownership, the mainspring tensioning screw could have been filed down to make the trigger pull lighter, so it may need to be replaced.
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07-22-2015, 02:27 PM
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Thank you all for the replies. Yes, I am the original owner of my M&P Model 10. I was using new Zero ammo too. I will check again to see if there were any marks left on the bullet cases near the primers.
I have owned many S&W revolvers, and have never had to tighten the bottom screw for the main spring. I guess there is always a "first time" just another "Revolting Development!" Also, I am new to the Forum, and did not know about the special Revolver Section. Thank you.
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09-11-2017, 01:40 PM
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Sorry for the long delay. No, there were no marks on the primers of the ammo that didn't go off. The screw for the main spring on the handle was tight too. I have been told that S&W went over to the Floating Firing Pin in order to save money instead of keeping the more expensive Firing Pin/Hammer combination. True or False I don't know.
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09-11-2017, 01:55 PM
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My guess is short stroking the trigger. Have somebody else shoot it . . .
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09-11-2017, 02:36 PM
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I've had that problem with a model 29 smith even after I changed the main spring. I removed the frame mounted firing pin cleaned everything and the problem went away . It's a fairly easy fix .
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09-11-2017, 02:37 PM
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I'm guessing Airborne is a pretty experienced shooter (shortstroking?) but having someone else shoot the M10 makes sense to see if shortstroking is the problem.
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09-12-2017, 12:42 AM
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I would also try firing the revolver in single action just to get a base comparison. Firing from a cocked hammer should give the hardest hit on the firing pin.. If it fires OK in single action then, usually the problem is the strain screw not being tight (although it's tight in this case) or the hammer spring is too light.
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09-12-2017, 05:41 AM
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..... and I thank all of you for your replies. I received my model 10 back from S&W. They said that they had to repair the yoke, and replace the firing pin. So far, no problems shooting this gun now.
Thanks again to all who commented on my problem.
Abn. 423 (an old burned out cop too.)
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09-12-2017, 11:43 AM
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Since this thread is resurrected, I would add my experience for consideration.
I purchased a police trade-in Model 64 NY-1 that behaved much like that described by the OP.
A discussion here ensued, in which short stroking was mentioned.
After a bit of fiddling, I was able to capture the hammer at the point of release. Absolutely short-stroking.
A trip to the mothership and all was fine.
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09-12-2017, 03:36 PM
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This is a 2015 thread. Am I missing something here.
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09-12-2017, 05:30 PM
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Until the OP posted yesterday, we were all missing the resolution of the original question: factory diagnosed, and repaired, yoke and firing pin problems. Sad to see it can happen to one-owner, low mileage workhorses, but I'd guess none of us are surprised.
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09-13-2017, 06:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrangler5
Until the OP posted yesterday, we were all missing the resolution of the original question: factory diagnosed, and repaired, yoke and firing pin problems. Sad to see it can happen to one-owner, low mileage workhorses, but I'd guess none of us are surprised.
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Kind of a stretch to blame S&W without knowing what the OP's firearm handling practices are . . .
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09-13-2017, 08:26 AM
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2 different guns???
What years of mfg? Extensive dry firing, gummed up firing pin channels or "other" areas, guns tinkered with, ammo, short stroking??? Making my model 10-6 not ignite a primer (especially) in single action mode would take some "help".
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06-22-2019, 03:25 PM
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So far I have fired about 100 rounds through my Model 10 S&W. This was after S&W did the repair work on my gun. My question now is, how often should I remove the side plate and clean inside the mechanism. Some say after 500 rounds, others say after about 300 rounds. i only use brand new ammo, and thoroughly clean my gun after each shoot. I have not removed the side plate since receiving it back from S&W.
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06-22-2019, 03:28 PM
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Never, unless you know what you’re doing. Kinda like raising the hood on a modern vehicle on the side of the road unless you’re an ASE certified mechanic . . .
Quote:
Originally Posted by Airborne423
So far I have fired about 100 rounds through my Model 10 S&W. This was after S&W did the repair work on my gun. My question now is, how often should I remove the side plate and clean inside the mechanism. Some say after 500 rounds, others say after about 300 rounds. i only use brand new ammo, and thoroughly clean my gun after each shoot. I have not removed the side plate since receiving it back from S&W.
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06-22-2019, 03:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muss Muggins
Never, unless you know what you’re doing.
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This.
And even then, the answer probably is Every Twenty Years, Whether It Needs It Or Not.
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