I bought it locally. I honestly didn't notice the trigger problem. I wish I had. I'm going to call S&W tomorrow and tell them that they didn't fix it, and that I tried to fix it myself and made it worse, and see what they say. If the say they have to charge me for repair, I'm thinking about ordering a replacement trigger and installing it to see if that helps. Hopefully just a $50 trigger will fix it. I have a feeling that if S&W voids my warranty because I tried to fix it myself, I'll spend more than that just shipping the gun to them.

Anyone have any idea what S&W would charge to replace a trigger and then find the hitch in the trigger and repair it?

Oh, and here's what my little gem looked like when I cracked it open. I'm incensed that a S&W tech would open this up and not clean this rust out at all. I can't believe it looked this bad.




I cleaned it up as well as I could with a nylon brush and an Arkansas stone.

Um, some basic trouble shooting?

Did you open the cylinder, leave it open, pull back the latch and see if the trigger bound up when pulled? That takes a few things out of the equasion.

Now, what did you stone? Unless you went in there with a rasp, I'll bet you installed something wrong putting it back together.

http://smith-wessonforum.com/138716570-post16.html

Triggers are drop in, the DA Sear on the hammer is an item that MUST be fitted. I would recommend that you stop messing with this and take it immediately to a competant gunsmith. Yeah, it will cost you 60 bucks or so in labor but my crystal ball is indicating that your lack of patience will lead you to taking a hacksaw to your new revolver just to insure it isn't repairable.

Why would you recommend seeking a gunsmith instead of calling S&W? I heed your recommendation that I stop messing with this. I'm putting the hacksaw down. I'm done.

if you do any polishing or stoning, make sure you get a red or blue sharpie and and file only to the point where your ink comes off. no more than that, reassemble and test fire again.
a gunsmith knows when to back off. you should be able to drop in another DA sear and ge the factory pull back.
paint your trigger with sharpie, maybe its got a high spot rubbing somewhere?
possible a trigger shim can improve that, but send it back to SW and tell them to fix it, it might be a couple of parts that you owe but better than a safe anchor.

someone thats local, you can trust and can call you back with any questions.
Most gunsmiths that I know have been repairing our ***** jobs for 20+ years, can't say for a fact that is occurring at SW repairs.

Just got off the phone with S&W. I told him that I received the gun back, and that the hand replacement didn't solve the problem. He told me that he wants to overnight the gun back to S&W and get that problem solved for me immediately.

After he said that I told him "now we've got another problem," and proceeded to explain that I tried to fix the gun myself, and ruined the trigger. He told me again that he's going to send me a free overnight label, and that he'll notate that "the customer tried to fix the problem. The gun is new." I told him that I'd be willing to pay to replace the trigger and the hammer if needed, but asked him to please keep the gun in the "warranty repair" status, so that I don't have to wait several months to get it back, as it's new, and I just got it last month. He said that shouldn't be a problem.

So I'm happy with the interaction. I don't have to pay shipping, which is a relief. If I have to pay for the trigger and hammer, and nothing else, I'll consider this a success, and a lesson learned. Again, the fact that I've had to be S&W's QC department notwithstanding, I'm happy with the customer service I've received so far.

That's great to hear.

It's generous of S&W not to have voided the warranty, as some companies would have.

Good luck on this round of repairs!

Just be prepared to receive the gun back with the repair explanation "replaced hand." Again. Frankly, I wonder if S&W isn't ruing its warranty policy because it's apparently being swamped with returns and can't handle the overflow.

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103

From what I've seen with Smith CS, what you tell the agent goes in the file, but the gunsmith works off the written description you attach. So be sure the description mentions that this is the second return, and in the first one they noted "XXX on the report, but the symptoms did not change. Maybe put a copy of the first report (clearly marked as "previous repair") in with the new letter.

Good advice. Thanks.

I have the same exact problem you have on my 929. The first 1/8" to 1/4" of the pull is very hard, around 12lbs and once you get past it, it drops to about a 7lb pull. Problem is getting past the 12lb part it is kind of a snap/jerk and spins the cylinder completely to the next round before finishing even half of the stroke.

I've had a local smith work on it and the problem he said was with the trigger. There is a tooth or nipple on the trigger where it interfaces with the cylinder lock. He didn't want to touch it and said that's just the way the triggers going to be with that tooth. Couldn't reshape it or since it barely catches as it is.

Going to send it in to S&W even though he already did an action job on it and see what they do.

Were you able to resolve your issue and is yours the same thing when you took it apart and looked?

LOL. Reminds me of Sig. Until you know what to say when you send it back for a FTF, they will polish the feed ramp and send it back to you, regardless what the actual problem is. The gun industry is geetting like Indian computer support: "Is your computer plugged in?"

Clark Custom Guns did a target trigger action job on a Ruger MKII and a service trigger action job on a S&W model 64 for me.
Shooting the Ruger target trigger is close to having a religious experience, I didn't want the 64 to be that light so got the service trigger job. Best $115.00 best I ever spent, Happy Happy Joy Joy !
Gary

I took mine down, and with nothing else but the trigger and the cylinder stop installed, I could tell that it was not the nub at the end of the trigger. The trigger and cylinder stop interacted smoothly, and I didn't feel a hitch at all. So I think it was something else. I really don't know what was causing it.

The gun is back at S&W right now for round 2. I hope it comes back working.

I thought I was pretty clear on the not I wrapped around the revolver in the box.

I told the guy that the problem occurred even with the cylinder open. Granted, my knowledge is extremely limited when it comes to revolvers, but I think that kind of eliminates the hand as a problem. But that's all they did. "Replaced hand." This time I wrote an even longer note, and again wrapped it around the revolver. Won't help unless they actually read it. Here's hoping.

It's smooth with just the trigger and cylinder stop installed. It's when there's spring tension that it's really felt. With the cylinder open and pulling back on the cylinder release so I can pull the trigger I feel it as well so it can't be the hand/cylinder interaction.

The more I read yours the more I think it's the same issue. I just got my return label from SW, the rep sounded annoyed. Wondering if I called him right after you or something lol.

I'm still trying to figure out how a NIB Smith has that rust inside the gun?!?!? And, yes even after a factory warranty "repair". WOW.

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Fight socialism. Never stop.

Inexcusable, but hey, he didn't complain about the rust he couldn't have known existed in his note, so ...

In early 90's I bought a new 629, took it to the range and could not hit the 3X4 foot target backing with my loads, which create on large hole @ 25 yds. I adjusted the sights full left and still had to hold off a foot to hit target backing. Sent to S&W, with an explanation, it was returned with sights moved to center. I called, explained that someone needs to read the note and "fix" the problem. They replaced everything! and it still would not shoot accurately. They finally checked the frame which had been drilled off center. New frame, action job and it was finally returned. I had millet night sights installed and now it is perfect. Sometimes it is not what you think, and throwing parts at it can become expensive. New Gun , let them fix it till it is "RIGHT". Patience is needed when a brand new gun will not work. The other 20000 are running fine. Be Safe,

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I BACK OUR BLUE

Me too... especially since it's 686 stainless?

Now, I know stainless is not rust proof, but the OP's gun looks more like the insides of a "blood gun"... appalling if the factory sent it out from the factory like that.

In my 40+ years of buying and owning S&W's, I've never seen the insides of a new stainless gun look like that, and I have a few of them too, with a 625-8 JM and a 986 being the most recent.

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Conrad
SWCA #1830 SWHF #222

Just got shipping notification, should be back on Friday. 16 days, not bad. I called them yesterday, the rep said they are replacing the hammer, trigger, cylinder stop, and ejector.

I called them last time I got shipping notification, and the rep told me the only repair was replacing the hand. I asked the rep if that made any sense, since the problem occurred with the cylinder open. He simply told me "look, I can 100% guarantee you that this will solve the problem. They know what they're doing back there." That eased my mind sufficiently. Remembering that, I'm worried that I may get the revolver back with the original problem. How likely is that? It's gotta be fixed with all those parts replacements, right?

You should be good. I found out my issue was the hammer and the trigger sears catching which was the stacking effect. Rounded out the bottom of the hammer sear and its very smooth now. With them replacing all of those internals yours should be functioning flawlessly.

That's exactly what I thought was wrong with mine. It hung up as the sears came in contact. Only I rounded the sears too much. Not enough knowledge about how they interact. It fixed the problem with the hitch, but it caused the double action hammer fall to occur too soon. Really botched it. Oh well. It seems S&W took care of it. We'll see. I hope it comes back with a good trigger. I like everything else about the revolver a lot.

If they only took QC just as seriously, people wouldn't have to find out how seriously they took customer service.

Co Th G, I do believe you've nailed it!

It's like my continuing issues with the multiple-returned BG380,"hey, good news! It has multiple strike capability!!!" Shucks, I'd hoped I wouldn't NEED it so often.
But, my 686+ is PERFECT, and is one of my favorite guns.

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Fight socialism. Never stop.

That was my first thought too. The assembler cut himself, bled all over it, then said "screw it, just put the sideplate on and nobody will notice"

'Officially" you broke the warranty, but if S&W had made it right the first time or when it was sent for repair, you wouldn't be in this mess. It does pee me off that S&W forgoes factory inspection for letting their customers do the dirty work of sending and waiting, hoping it will be fixed. I think I'd let them know that in a very gentle and civil way and that you bought it and sent it back only to have it returned with a rudimentary 'fix' and that you are frustrated. Maybe they'll just give you a new gun or something.

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"He was kinda funny lookin'"

I agree. The frustration I can deal with. I get pissed, later I calm down. Life is frustrating. I'll get over it and cool off. What I don't think any customer should have to deal with the anxiety of worrying that a gun that costs over $800 is going to come back a second time and not work. I don't like anxiety. And yes, I did over-pay for this gun. I found one in stock at a local gun store, and was amazed that they were charging $759 for it. My FFL dealer could order it for $679! But he said he doesn't expect his distributor to have one in stock in the near future. I tried to talk them down at the store I bought it from, but the guy straight up told me that he got 3 in last week, and two have already sold. If it was something that had been on the shelf for a while, he'd work with me, but that pistol will sell by the end of the week. I believed him. $830 for a defective gun. At least I've learned a lesson about thoroughly checking firearms before taking possession of them.

Anyway I think I've complained about all the forum can tolerate, so I'll stop beating the dead horse. I'll surely let you guys know if it works when I get it Friday. Here's hoping.

Had the exact same issue with a new 629. I sent it back and got it returned in about 2 weeks. The replaced the sear and now it is very smooth. Unfortunately this is the second new revolver I had to send them in the last two months. The other was a new 29 classic with a firing pin issue. It was also returned fix in about 2 weeks.

I wish I had your LGS. My way, it's full MSRP with an occasional sale for maybe $50-$100 off that ... not to mention a boatload of taxes.

As far as the dead horse goes, hey -- if it's still bleeding, keep on beating it! Since the 70's I've owned revolvers by Colt, S&W, Ruger, Taurus, and even lowly H&R. The only ones I've ever seen defects on were S&W's. And, I'll keep beating until they've done me right. Three new S&W revolvers in four months, three unacceptably defective revolvers. When people accept less than mediocrity, that is what they will continue to receive. Mine would have to ship by Friday for me to get the two weeks everyone else seems to get ... once again, it ain't happening for me, it seems. Sorry, but I'm just flat out sick and tired of paying hundreds of dollars for "new" guns, then having to call and explain their problems, get a label, pack it up, ship it off, and then wait weeks to get it, all the while being without what I paid for and fretting that it still won't come back right.

I just received the revolver. It's fixed. There's no stacking in the trigger pull. It is now as I initially expected a Smith trigger would feel like. Actually, it's a little lighter. I think they worked some mojo on the single action pull for sure, and the double seems light. So it may have gotten some bonus TLC. Now that it's all behind me, I'm happy. I put some Pachmayr Compact Professional grips on it. They're great for small hands. Now I guess I just need to shoot it and make sure everything is working properly before I carry it. Thanks for all the help and advice guys, and for allowing me to vent my frustrations without reprimand. See you around.

Good to hear it's fixed!!! now be sure to give us some updates on shooting it. It's always nice to give a compliment when deserved......

Oh ya... I knew you had small hands!!!

One more thing..... I live 10 minutes from S&W, many here know that and also that I am a fanboy.. ... Last night was date night for me and the wife.. We ate at one of our favorite Italian restaurants in W. Springfield.. while eating I ran into an old high school friend... who happens to have worked at S&W for about 40 years... I bumped into him about 2 months ago, last time there and he was test firing guns ...... guess what he's been doing for the last couple of months....

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Jack C

Great news! I'm happy for ya. Enjoy!

A word of advice....don't drive yourself batty. If you end up buying a lot of guns, you will find that many of them have issues, some more than others. Yours required fixin'. Glad it's fixed.

I have a Model 63-5 that requires the sight to be noticeably off center, but now it shoots straight at all ranges and groups remarkably. I thought about sending it back to S&W, but then I realized it would be a real pain to box it, etc.

I've had to send three guns back to S&W - 1) broken trigger pivot pint; 2) broken hammer stud and 3) very loose yoke and cylinder. Each time S&W delivered.

If you think about it, you could have just sent it back to S&W a second time.

Nicks, chips, scratches, stacking, canted, catching, pitting - these are very, very small things in life.

If you intend to carry with Magnum ammunition make sure you do some testing with Magnum ammunition and do it in Double Action. As for why, it's been my experience that Magnum primers require a firmer hammer strike than standard primers. So if S&W tuned your trigger a bit on the "light" side and you don't experience any misfires in Double Action you'll know for sure that the trigger wasn't tuned too light.

BTW, I have a recently acquired 1971 vintage 2 1/2 inch model 19 that I am working on sorting out for this specific issue. When purchased the DA trigger pull was 8.5 lbs and it ran fine with 38 spl. in double action but with Magnums the misfire rate was about 1 in 3. Wrapping 0.006 inch thick shim stock around the mainspring where the Strain Screw contacts it took the DA pull to 9.0 lbs. That resulted in a 1 in 6 misfire rate in Double Action. Next step I'll be testing this weekend. That being a primer cup sanded down in thickness enough to take the trigger pull to 9 lbs. 8 ounces. If that solves the problem I'll purchase a new Mainspring and a new Strain Screw and fit the two so that I duplicate that trigger pull with the new parts. Because I already know that a brass primer cup will tend to thin out rather quickly if I were to try and rely on that as a solution.

Point is that one distinct advantage to the S&W Leaf type Mainspring is that it allows the lockwork to be much more "tuneable". In addition the later Firing Pin in Frame models provide for another tuneability option. Because if my older model 19 featured a firing pin that was available in different lengths I could resolve my misfire issues by simply changing to a firing pin just 0.01 inch longer.

Good info, thanks.

Testing new 3" 686's??????

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I BACK OUR BLUE

Hehehe ..... noooo, he is the last guy on the end of the assembly line. The way he explained it to me is each part is installed by one person after another as it passes down the line, when it gets to the end, if there is an issue with it's function, he gets it. He gets to figure out what part is screwed and he makes it right. I'll have to grill him a little more next time I see him, but it sounds like he function dry fires each gun before it gets live fire..

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Jack C

May I suggest something here. If you had the side plate off be sure you didn,the mix up the screws ? The screw that holds the crane in is different than the others and can mess up the cranes function and cause binding .just saying check the screws...