My first Smith, trigger problem. Need advice. 10/23 Problem solved.

Guys, I got a new in box 2.5” 686 plus that I’ve been obsessing over for the last couple of months, and I’m really happy with the revolver, but I have a serious problem with the trigger. I need to pick your brains again.

When I pull the trigger, after about ¼” of pull, the trigger stacks up, and hard. It stacks up to at least 15 pounds, maybe more. It stacks so hard, and so early in the pull, that when I finally break through it, there’s enough force to spin that cylinder way, way too fast, and I finish the entire trigger pull with no control whatsoever. It’s as if I was trying to shoot the darn thing as fast as humanly possible. The cylinder spins so fast that the whole revolver twists in my hands a little bit. I know that’s bad for the revolver, and will wear out the cylinder stop hand and its slot on the cylinder.

Tonight I compared the trigger pull to 2 other Smiths at my uncles house; an old pinned 2.5” 66, and an old no-lock 4” 66, and with both of those, I can perfectly control how fast the cylinder spins, from really, really slow, to smooth medium, to combat fast (not as fast as possible, but a controlled fast keeping sights on target, if that makes any sense.) The pull on those 2 66s has no stacking throughout the entire trigger. It’s smooth from start to finish. That’s what I was expecting.

A year or two ago, I handled my uncle’s 2.5” 66 for the first time. I owned several Rugers, and I liked them. But when I tried the trigger pull on that 66, I was shocked at how smooth that thing was. My uncle and I discussed it, and he told me “that’s why you pay so much more for Smith and Wesson. The trigger is that good right from the factory, no screwing around required. Can’t get a pull like that from a Ruger without work.” That’s what first planted the thought of getting a Smith in my head. Up to that point, I knew that Smiths were great, but I couldn’t justify spending more on one when Ruger makes such an upstanding product for less money. But after feeling that 66, I decided I needed a Smith in my future. Fast forward to today, and I now have my first one, the aforementioned 2.5” 686 plus. My expectations were pretty high, and my new 686 doesn’t meet them.

The trigger is also noticeably heavier, but I’m not even complaining about that. I’ve heard that the triggers will get better after shooting them a bit, but how much better? How many shots?

I really don’t think I’ll be able to get good accuracy out of this thing with the trigger the way it is now. I know that sometimes, even with companies with a great reputation, like S&W, you can come across a bad apple every once in a while. Is this a case of that? Or do they all start out this way and need firing? Should I send this to someone, or send it back to Smith? Have you heard these symptoms before? Will adjusting the hammer spring tension alleviate this? Please advise.

Thanks guys.

That is not something I have experienced in any of my five 686's. None of them stack as you describe.

Is this a new revolver? If so, I would call S&W and have it sent back under warranty.

Pef said:

That is not something I have experienced in any of my five 686's. None of them stack as you describe.

Is this a new revolver? If so, I would call S&W and have it sent back under warranty.

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Yeah, it's new in box. Will S&W send me a prepaid shipping label you think?

ccjcc81 said:

Yeah, it's new in box. Will S&W send me a prepaid shipping label you think?

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Yes. Given them a call and they will even e-mail one to you.

Bummer, but it happens. Smith will make it right.

If your mechanically inclined search You Tube for trigger jobs. S&W triggers are not overly complicated. If sent it back you probably won't see it back for months. I've done my own trigger work on all my Smiths and their perfect. You can get spring kits anywhere.

Before doing anything else check the strain screw, it must be tight. If too loose it will cause exactly what you describe. If this isn't it then call S&W for a "Call Tag" and send it back. If it is, wouldn't you feel silly sending the gun back under warrantee for a loose screw?

Make sure there is nothing under the ejector, keeping it from fully seating forward and flush against the cylinder.

On a used gun, this is usually un-burned powder.

However, the new 617 I just bought had a tiny metal chip under the ejector, that managed to keep itself in place until I tooth brushed it out.

I've also had copper plating come off bullets, and get stuck near the forcing cone, partially jamming the cylinder (although I believe you said yours is unfired). In any case, you can hold the revolver against a light and watch the cylinder to barrel gap as you dry fire to confirm no rub there.

You may have a more serious problem, but I thought I'd throw a couple easy ones out there.

I don't think you want to open a new gun, but I caused the condition you describe in my 629 when I mis-installed the tiny spring at the bottom of the hand, such that one leg was out of position. It appears this caused the pushrod going towards the rebound block to be slightly out of position, and thereby bind or rub as it traveled.

Is there any possibility someone has put a lightened mainspring in that is interfering with the grip screw? A particular brand of mainsprings has a raised rib , and it can sometimes come in contact with the grip screw. This usually only happens with aftermarket grips. So, pull the grips and see. Or, it may be the double action sear has never been fit.

I agree with ALK8944. I've done this when reassembling a revolver and forgetting to tighten it down all the way. Feels like you describe. Worth a quick shot.

I checked the mainspring tension screw, and it was tightened down all the way. I loosened it a little bit, and it lightened the trigger pull pretty quickly. Didn’t take much screw travel to lighten it considerably. I didn’t go very far with it. It seems to have lessened the problem. Now I can almost get a smooth pull every once and a while. The trigger pull weight seems about like the 2 66s I tried last night. But it still has the stacking at the front of the pull. However, because the pull is lighter, the effects are different. Now, it stacks, and the cylinder stops until I gradually force through it, and when it does force through, the cylinder will spin quickly straight to lock up, but I have enough control to no let the hammer fall. It’s still not completely gradual, like with those 66s, but at least it’s not banging the cylinder into lock really hard every time now, and the gun isn’t twisting in my hands. I could probably shoot it with some accuracy now.

Will shooting it help? I was planning to put about 250 rounds through it on Tuesday, 100 rounds of 125gr .357 magnum and 150 rounds of 158gr .38 spc, do you think I should do that and see if it smooths anything out, or just send it to Smith as soon as they give me a shipping label? I’m inclined to go shoot it first.

I checked some of the other things you guys suggested; there’s nothing under the ejector star. It seems to sit perfectly flush with the rest of the cylinder. I sincerely doubt that it has an aftermarket light mainspring. It should be brand new. If it’s not, I’ve been lied to. I bought it from a local brick and mortar gun shop.

I don’t want to open it up and attempt a trigger job on it. I’ve polished up parts in Rugers before, but I would only consider doing something like that myself if the goal was just to smooth it up. I don’t want to attempt to solve any problems, I’ll leave that to the pros. I was tempted to tear it open and look around last night, but resisted the temptation.

If I send it in, will it really take a couple of months to get it back? I busted my hump trying to find this thing. I’d be sorely tempted to just sell it and buy another GP100, as I don’t have a 3” yet, and Ruger just started making the compact grips for the GP100 again…

You guys deserve serious commendation for sharing your knowledge with people less knowledgeable. You have my utmost gratitude.

I just sat down and fiddled with this thing again today, and i think the loosening the tension screw may have solved the problem. The stacking is much less pronounced, and if I concentrate, I can rotate that cylinder pretty smoothly. Maybe the sky isn't falling. I'll go shoot it Tuesday and see if the trigger smooths up after 250 rounds or so. I'll keep you guys posted. Thanks again.

If you open the cylinder pull back the bolt and then pull the trigger, how does it feel?

I'd guess real good.

I've had many with burrs in the extractor pockets that ground the trigger pull to a stop.

Polishing stone and some careful clean up, turned them into my guns with the best trigger pulls.

If you call them S&W will give you an estimate of turn around time. I would send it back.

ccjcc81 said:

I just sat down and fiddled with this thing again today, and i think the loosening the tension screw may have solved the problem. The stacking is much less pronounced, and if I concentrate, I can rotate that cylinder pretty smoothly. Maybe the sky isn't falling. I'll go shoot it Tuesday and see if the trigger smooths up after 250 rounds or so. I'll keep you guys posted. Thanks again.

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Just make sure you do not have light strikes now. Loosening the strain screw lessens the hammer force.

Again, I've never had this problem with a 686, and I have had 5 (still have four of them).

It might be something stupid like the tip of the mainspring not engaged the stirrup properly. If you are confident about taking the side plate off, it might be worth cycling the trigger a few times to see if you can spot the problem. But then it still ends up going back so unless you are sure you can do it without marking it... just get the tag.

bigggbbruce said:

If you open the cylinder pull back the bolt and then pull the trigger, how does it feel?

I'd guess real good.

I've had many with burrs in the extractor pockets that ground the trigger pull to a stop.

Polishing stone and some careful clean up, turned them into my guns with the best trigger pulls.

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I did what you tried, and that's not what's causing the problem. It still exists even with the cylinder open. But your suggestion has led to another clue, probably a very important one, but I don't know what to do with it.

When I pull the trigger with the cylinder open, I can see the cylinder stop hand go down immediately, and after about 1/4" of trigger travel, the trigger hangs a little. It's right before the cylinder stop hand pops back up. So something about the cylinder stop hand, or whatever releases it to pop back up, is causing a stoppage. When I feel the trigger stack up, and force through it, once the cylinder stop hand springs back up, the resistance disappears, and the trigger pulls right through without a problem. So, what can I do to alleviate that? If I open the gun up, will it void the warranty? I've completely detail stripped a Ruger, including the entire trigger and the cylinder release latch, and I've stripped several 1911s, so I'm confident about being able to put it back together, but If I'm going to void the warranty by opening this up and polishing or deburring a part, I'm not going to do it.

I think something is wrong internally with this gun. Chances are it will be simple to fix, but there is no way in heck I would take the sideplate off a brand new gun to find out. Send it home. I understand they turn warranty work around pretty quickly.

ccjcc81 said:

When I pull the trigger with the cylinder open, I can see the cylinder stop hand go down immediately, and after about 1/4" of trigger travel, the trigger hangs a little. It's right before the cylinder stop hand pops back up. So something about the cylinder stop hand, or whatever releases it to pop back up, is causing a stoppage...

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No way of knowing without seeing it myself, so it could be, but my guess is you are seeing two effects, not a cause and an effect. (BTW, this is not the "hand," which is actually the part that goes from the rear of the trigger up to turn the cylinder.)

"Correlation does not imply causation," as the old saying goes.

I make this guess, because you will find that this part of the clockwork is very simple. The trigger pushes it down, until it slips past and pops back up. I guess it is possible there is debris or a burr there, which would probably be easy to find. You can see how it works below, forward of the trigger.

Also visible is why a tiny change in the strain screw position dramatically effects the mainspring preload, for better or worse. It's a pretty sensitive design. Personally, I am not a fan of anything other than a tight strain screw, although you can modify its length, or install a set screw.

The little stirrup that flagman1776 mentioned is visible at the top/forward end of the mainspring. The mainspring just hooks around the stirrup, which in turn hooks the hammer.

The similar problem I created in mis-assembling my revolver was related to the internal interfacing parts not visible below between the trigger and the rebound block behind it.

With the cylinder open you should be able to press on the cylinder stop and push it down and let it up.

Does it move freely and easily ?

This is strange....

686s are known for having great triggers. I don't want a trigger job on mine because I'm afraid it would mess it up. I've never heard of a strain screw being THAT tight, usually they are loose because people back them out to do a 'trigger job' which causes problems with light strikes, as pointed out before. If the trigger isn't almost perfect when you've done what you can, somebody with experience needs to look at it. It's just plain wrong for a 686 to have that lousy of a trigger.