A few questions about M986 pro series vs 686 performance center

Hello,

I own a 686+ performance center with 2.5" barrel just like this one-



I am considering trading it for a model 986+ pro series. I would probably have to add a small amount of cash; not sure how much yet though. Looks just like this -



I really like the trigger on the 686+ PC, so I'm hoping that I wouldn't be downgrading as far as that goes if I made the trade. On the S&W web site specifications for each gun, as far as upgrades that would affect the trigger pull, the 986 specifies "PC Mainspring", and the 686 specifies "PC Tuned Action"

Has anyone owned or shot both of these revolvers and able to compare the triggers on the two?


Also, with the 986- do you have to use moonclips? or is it just an option? It was so difficult to load up the clips on my 686+ PC that I don't think I'd like to be forced to use them.

I'd really appreciate any input you guys can give me. Thanks!

The trigger on my 986 is very nice, but I don't own a 686 to make a direct comparison.

The 986 requires the use of moon clips. No way around it. If you have a gun that needs moon clips, you should invest in a moon clip tool. They run from cheap and effective (lightly modified length of 1/2 inch brass tube) to expensive, effective and efficient (BMT Mooner @ about $90...but worth every penny) to a couple of effective solutions in between at around $20 (See Brownell's or MidwayUSA).

I love moon clips. After recovering from the initial expense for a stock of clips (see TK Custom stainless...they're the OEM for S&W) and a Mooner, it's nice to be able to load a couple of boxes of bullets while sitting in front of the TV and not having to spend time reloading when we get to the range. No problem harvesting spent brass, either. It stays in the clips until you're ready to de-clip at your convenience. Don't even have to bend over (unless you've got fumble fingers like I do and drop one). Yes, there's a little expense involved, but it's mostly a one-time investment (the TK clips are not consumables...they look like they'll last as long as the gun).

That said, and as much as I like my 986, if I were to start over again, I'd probably go with a 686 SSR or Model 66. My 986 is a nice, soft-shooting target gun that is only barely acceptable in the accuracy department. I think it's bored a little on the large side. I say this because of comments posted by others here, and the fact that it's much better (a tack driver, in fact) with .358 lead hand loads. But, since I don't have the space or time to load my own, I shoot factory new ball rounds and live with larger groups. A couple of "friends" gave me a stock of targets with a 4 inch solid black center to use with the 986. They thought it was a joke, but at least now I can say I can stay on the bull's eye at 25 yards.

I have a 986.

Yes, you need to use moon clips, and for some reason they are more expensive for this gun bring than those for a 625 or 925. I bought my clips on eBay from Wheelgun-Supply, they have the best price and the quality looks to be on par with the TK clips that comes with S&W revolvers. I bought my combination moon/de-moon tool from mooncliptool.com, you can use the same tool for multiple calibers by buying additional moon clip arbors for those calibers, the tool runs $45.00 (plus $7 shipping), the extra arbors are $5. I too like using the moon clips for the exact same reasons rbmorse stated.

The difference between a PC gun and the 986 is the PC gun receives more hand fitting of the action parts, where the 986 is assembled just like a regular production gun with the exception of getting a reduced power mainspring instead of the standard production mainspring. When I looked at mine, the PC Mainspring looked awfully similar to a Wolff reduce power mainspring, rib and all... I suspect that's exactly what it is and Wolff is the EOM for S&W. I don't have a PC revolver to compare the trigger pull, but I imagine with the closer tolerances and smoother surfaces that MIM parts have over the older forged/machined parts, I think the differences between a production assembled gun versus a hand fitted PC gun are much less than before.

I can tell you in my years of doing my own trigger work, the MIM parts require much less smoothing. I changed the factory trigger rebound spring to a Wolff reduced power (14lb) spring (factory is 18lb).. I think between that and the minor smoothing of parts that I did, my 986 can go toe to toe with a PC gun in the trigger department. I highly recommend the Jerry Miculek "Trigger Job" DVD to learn about S&W revolver actions and tweaking them.

In a trade, your PC gun is worth more than a Pro Series... the 986 is not a Performance Center gun, it does not have the PC logo stamped on it, S&W has it incorrectly listed as a PC gun.

The Pro series guns are just a step up over a regular production gun, but not the same as a PC gun, they are assembled like a regular production gun without any additional detail towards fitting/polishing, but have upgraded features, such as the PC mainspring, the PC style "skeletonized" barrel and the Titanium alloy cylinder.

On the S&W website this is what they say about the Pro Series, note the "still remain true to stock" comment:

"Completing the line between main production and the Performance Center, the Smith & Wesson Pro Series represents the next step from standard models. These firearms are offered with a variety of enhancements yet still remain true to "stock." Bringing competition specifications and features to factory models, the Pro Series offer that ready-to-go package while still maintaining production line integrity."

A word about the Ti alloy cylinder... they require kid glove treatment while cleaning. The manual warns not to use any abrasive cleaner or brush that would compromise/remove the protective anodized coating on it that prevents flame erosion. While titanium is lighter in weight and has a higher tensile strength over steel, it is a softer metal and needs that coating. I do not need the faster DA cycling time that a lighter cylinder brings to the dance, I would much rather have a stainless cylinder for it's durability. When I bought my 986, I was not aware of the special care needs of the cylinder... if I had been, I would have been very reluctant about buying it, instead it was an impulse buy so bad on me for not doing research beforehand.

Gunhacker said:

In a trade, your PC gun is worth more than a Pro Series... the 986 is not a Performance Center gun, it does not have the PC logo stamped on it, S&W has it incorrectly listed as a PC gun

Click to expand...

Do you know why the 986 has a higher MSRP?

S&W list the 986's MSRP at $1,149.00, and the 686+ PC is listed at $1,089.00




I was pretty shocked at just how accurate I was able to be with my 686+ PC when I first shot it. I wondered how useful a great trigger would be, if the sight radius is very short from a 2.5" barrel; the barrel/sight radius was the main reason that held me back from buying this gun for a while, but I came across a great deal locally that I couldn't pass up. I was able to get just as good groups as my 686-4 with a 6" barrel. This was on two separate days though, I'll have to shoot them side by side on the same range trip to do a better comparison at which I shoot better.

A 38/357 is easy to get good accuracy out of a large variety of bullet weights and types, at a wide range of velocities. 9mm in a 986 is just the opposite. I enjoy my 986 for the smooth action and its size and balance. I also enjoy the reloading challenge. And it IS a challenge!

robert1804. the reloading is real easy with a Dillon 650XL I think. puts finished rounds out as fast as you can pull the handle....
I have had a 986 for about 18 months now and am happy with it so far. I did have a problem with the cylinder release not releasing the cylinder, but there was something (unburned powder maybe) in the way, and has seemed to be ok since an extra special cleaning and lubing.

I have 2 45 acp & 1 38+P revolvers with the titanium cylinders & to clean them I use hoppes elite. The coating on the cylinder is to protect the cylinder from burning with magnum rounds & eroding away.

USARMYSPEC4 said:

robert1804. the reloading is real easy with a Dillon 650XL I think. puts finished rounds out as fast as you can pull the handle....
I have had a 986 for about 18 months now and am happy with it so far. I did have a problem with the cylinder release not releasing the cylinder, but there was something (unburned powder maybe) in the way, and has seemed to be ok since an extra special cleaning and lubing.

Click to expand...

Yeah, I didn't phrase my post very well. The actual reloading is easy and enjoyable. It's working up accurate loads that is a fun and interesting challenge. My 986 seems to like .357" much better than .355 or .356" bullets. Also warmer loads seem better. I'm about to try some .358" 138 cast wc and some 158 cast swc. I just went from a single press to a Redding T-7 turret so a Dillon would be reach for me.

robert1804, I have been loading a 135 gr sized at .356 over 2.1 grains of titegroup for the last year and they are doing real well. I use the revolver for steel shooting only, so they shoot better that I can. Just started this competition shooting prior to getting the 986 about two years ago.
The bullets are made by Black Bullet and are a polymer coated. Good luck with your quest to find that "Perfect Load".