The simplest way to get the ejector rod seated enough to open the cylinder is to slide a thin business card between the cylinder stop and cylinder, then pinch the knurling on the tip of the ejector rod with a thumbnail and rotate the cylinder COUNTER CLOCKWISE from the rear.
Then to properly tighten the ejector rod field strip the revolver by removing the yoke and cylinder and remove the cylinder from the yoke. Then I use an old bit of leather belting folded over the knurling and a small Vise Grip plyer to clamp with. Then with the ejector rod pointing towards my face I grasp the cylinder in my left hand with a firm grip (but NOT a death grip) and rotate the Vise Grip counter clockwise until I feel the cylinder slip in my hand. Note, by using the hand holding the cylinder as a "slip clutch" you can control the applied torque with the strength of your grip and in two or three range sessions learn how to apply just enough torque so the ejector rod stays tight but not so tight that you can damage the threads. BTW, I consider the use of Locktite for this threaded junction to be a Mortal Sin. As in NEVER use locktight, properly tightened it's not needed and trying to re-assemble the ejector star to the ejector rod after locktite has been applied will lead to having to replace both parts and having them fitted about 70% of the time. Quite simply by using locktite you are creating a distinctly expensive repair for someone down the road.
|
Stuck cylinder
Linear Mode
