Hi,

I purchased a 642 without internal lock, and a 640 Pro, both new, this year. These are my first two revolver purchases, and only Smith & Wesson's I own. I am currently having issues with both of them.

A couple days ago, I took both to the range and put about 60 rounds of 38 Special +P Winchester White Box through both of them them, and a handfull of Winchester White Box 357 Mag through the 640 Pro. They ran without issue, however when I got home and cleaned them, my 642 is now having a trigger reset issue.

My 642 will now intermittently have an issue where the trigger gets stuck back after dry firing. I can wiggle the cylinder slightly, or push the trigger forward gently to reset it. It will then dry fire fine for a while before occurring again. It seems very random as to when it occurs, and is not predictable.

My 640 Pro also has a slight issue. Since I've purchased it, the cylinder kinda catches when I release it. I have to apply what seems more than usual pressure to get it to release. Furthermore, if it isn't oiled enough, it kinda binds up when releasing it. The cylinder rotates fine once closed and freely when out, and the gun fires flawlessly. I thought it would break in, but doesn't appear to be doing so. The crane also doesn't move very freely, and is very tight to the frame.

Both revolvers have been well cleaned and lubricated. I have ensured the extractor rod is tight on both, and there is no grit under the extractor star. The cylinders do freely spin as well.

Does anyone know what may be causing this, or should I just give S&W a call and send them in for service?

The reset issue on the 642 sounds like it need to factory attention.

Perhaps dry fire the 642 until the trigger doesn't reset and then send it back like that. Otherwise they may not be able to reproduce the problem.

For the 640, try cleaning under the extractor start thoroughly. A little "gunk" under star might cause the cylinder to stick.

Okay, so how many rounds total have been through them? 60 each? When you cleaned them, did you remove the cylinder? Did you lubricate the crane and cylinder? Don't be afraid to use oil.

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Actually, the reset issue is probably the easiest to address. Beyond what you've tried, neither issue is likely to be resolved without disassembly. If you're not comfortable with that, or have a local gunsmith you trust, you should send them back.

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Carry.."hope" isn't a strategy

Thanks for the replies!

Both have approximately 200 rounds through them total. I don't think I would be able to ship the 642 with the trigger stuck, as it take very little force on the cylinder or back of the trigger to reset it. I did not disassemble the guns at all to clean them. I did lubricate the cranes and cylinders though.

It looks like I'll be calling S&W tomorrow.

Sometimes the paint on the inner frame chips off binding the action. Take side plate off clean real good, llightly oil actpn parts.

No idea about the 642. On the 640 It sounds like the ejector rod might be unscrewing. It is reverse threaded, it is best to put empty cases in the cylinder before tightening. This helps prevent torquing the ejector star.

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Both of my J frames suffered from, what my gunsmith called a long ratchet. He did a little work and problem solved.

The long ratchet issue is common among the newer released models, especially J-frames. The 642 sounds like it's suffering from this condition. You can confirm this is likely the problem by opening the cylinder and holding the thumbpiece back. While holding the thumbpiece back (with the cylinder out/open) dry fire the action to see if the trigger "sticking" condition goes away. If the action behaves normally during this test, long ratchets are likely to blame. Make sure you pull the trigger fully to the rear during the test. The trigger binding problem should recur when the cylinder is closed and the action is dry fired....again, making sure the trigger is pulled fully to the rear. Empty shell casings or snap caps will likely exacerbate the malfunction.

The 640 issue could be extractor rod alignment, or improper fitting of the front locking bolt and/or the center pin. (among other things)

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No problems with my model 637 or model 60.

On the 642 I would take side plate off and clean everything good inside. Very lite film of oil inside is all that is needed usually.