What's the deal with the 625-8 guns?

1-1917 · Feb 4, 2018

I'm finding posts on the 625-8 to be very interesting. I just got one yesterday for $650 (JM version ish), as new but no box and rubber grips. I've read so many "greatest gun ever" and a few "biggest P.O.S. ever". Nothing in the middle. What to heck is the deal?

I've read about shot gun patterns and laser accuracy. I've never seen any S&W with the range of reports that this one has gotten. What's the deal? Is there a pattern? I hear about forcing cones that look like they were cut with a grinder. I wonder if there a SN range of those bad forcing cones/barrel/triggers/ etc.

Mine has all the JM features but lacks the JM prefix, Mine has a CNW prefix. Is it possible to isolate the *** and Laser guns based on SN range or is it totally random? Since mine has all the JM features but lacks the JM prefix, I'm not sure what I have. I'm almost afraid to take it to the range..

Is it just the JM guns that are *** guns? Does anyone have 625-8 *** that isn't a JM version?

Is it possible they are "ammo sensitive"? I have heard really bad things from people shooting factory jacketed ammo in most all of them. Is it possible the ones with *** guns are shooting hot reloaded lead or factory? I'm trying to find a common denominator here.

I'd love to hear from anyone that owns one and which side of the fence you are on. SN prefix might be interesting too.

This is the first lock gun I've purchased, depending on my range experience, it may be the last.. Hoping for the best. I've been looking for a simple quality shooter, I thought this was it but now I'm worried.

mtgianni · Feb 5, 2018

I have not shot one but around here that is a great price.

amazingflapjack · Feb 5, 2018

I bought a 625-8 new and sent it to S&W for the "Master Revolver package" which was about 200 + at that time. It included all that was done to the JM's, and maybe a little more. I had an FO front sight added. This package included a complete tune-chamfering-and trigger job. Even though it is a holer (albeit, an early one) it is in the top 3 of my favorite revolvers. I have big hands, so I put some over size round to squares on it. Even with the work and grips I don't have much in it-maybe 1100.00 or so.

BLUEDOT37 · Feb 5, 2018

1-1917 said:
I'm almost afraid to take it to the range..
Hoping for the best.
...but now I'm worried.
Does anyone have 625-8 that isn't a JM version?

Rather than getting all concerned about if what you bought is any good, take it to the range with an assortment of quality ammo & see how your's shoots first.

Too many variables & every gun is different.

The current 625PC are also 625-8's (since 2010).

Hope you enjoy it !

.

22hipower · Feb 5, 2018

I have a 625-8 (non JM sn DAV8214) five inch gun. Looks and shoots just like my 625-6 other than it has an IL. As others have said, take it to the range and shoot it. You got it for a great price and I suspect you'll really like how it shoots. The 625s are some of my favorite S&Ws at the range both with moon clips and with AR loads. Enjoy.

Jeff
SWCA #1457

series guy · Feb 5, 2018

This is mine D/A at 20 yards. I tuned the trigger to 2lbs S/A and 8lbs D/A and changed the grips. It's one of my favorites.

Spokes · Feb 5, 2018

Shoot it no doubt you will love it...I had a early 625 5" barrel that was a tack driver. Had to sell it because of some medical bills... Not that I am able I just ordered a 625 PC. I have handled a couple and found them to my liking..Don't know about the rainbow stocks but we will see..

Vulcan Bob · Feb 5, 2018

My two 625's are a JM and 5 inch Model of 1989. The 5 incher came with the S&W branded Hogue rubber monogrips and of course the JM had his grips on it. The 1989 is a wonderful shooter for me and the JM not so much. Try as I might the JM grips and I did not get along. Installed the rubber Hogues on the JM and all was well. As always everyone has their own "sweet spot"!

oneounceload · Feb 5, 2018

series guy said:
This is mine D/A at 20 yards. I tuned the trigger to 2lbs S/A and 8lbs D/A and changed the grips. It's one of my favorites.

What type of load did you use and was that from a sandbag rest? Very nice shooting!

1-1917 · Feb 5, 2018

I read someplace where the rifling was optimized for shooting cast, not sure what that's supposed to mean. It sure has deeper rifling than my 1955 Target or 1917s.

Lou_the_welder · Feb 5, 2018

It's what rounds you put in it.

I remember I had made a batch of 600 230gr w/w231 powder. And shot them. They were horrible. Shotgun patterns. Right around where the book said too;800-900 fps(not that I've ever not! Deviated from established norms)
And i had some ammo left over from my 1911s w/titegroup. Using an old published recipe. They were more accurate.
It's always what loads you use. Always. You can be the greatest shooter and use bad loads/ammo, and you will be a bad shooter-and probably hate the gun while you're at it.

Mine is a non jm serial- 625JM-8. It's very accurate with the right loads.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Protocall_Design · Feb 5, 2018

I have found the the determining factor on Smith revos in general for accuracy is the forcing cone and muzzle crown. Once in a while there will be a bad barrel, but 99% of the time it's the ends, not the rifling. The other thing that will kill accuracy is if the barrel has too much "crush fit" when they screwed it on and is smaller where the barrel is screwed into the frame. If all 3 of these items are correct, the gun will shoot. If one or more are not, it won't. Then there are degrees of how bad the problems are. Some are fine, some are just a little, some are really bad, and everything in between, right from the factory.

series guy · Feb 5, 2018

The group pictured was fired standing, two hand hold. The load is a Black Cherry coated 230gr. round nose w/ front driving band loaded over 4.8 gr. of Titegroup. Shoots well in both of my 625s.

1-1917 · Feb 5, 2018

I hope it's the load! Lou, I shot some 230 grain Bull-X hard cast truncated cone bevel base bullets behind 4.2gr of 231 and some behind 5gr of Unique. They were horrible, the only gun I've shot worse groups with at 25 yds off a sandbag was a Ruger Single Six convertible using LR ammo.

Lou shot patterns with 231 so I'm hoping that was at least part of the problem (unique wasn't any better though).

Here's 12 shots off a sandbag at 25 yards. GAG, my over sized cylinder 1955 Target shot a good bit better than this (today with the same load).

Lou_the_welder · Feb 5, 2018

1-1917 said:
I hope it's the load! Lou, I shot some 230 grain Bull-X hard cast truncated cone bevel base bullets behind 4.2gr of 231 and some behind 5gr of Unique. They were horrible, the only gun I've shot worse groups with at 25 yds off a sandbag was a Ruger Single Six convertible using LR ammo.

Lou shot patterns with 231 so I'm hoping that was at least part of the problem (unique wasn't any better though).

Here's 12 shots off a sandbag at 25 yards. GAG, my over sized cylinder 1955 Target shot a good bit better than this (today with the same load).

The one that worked for me was a .37cc disk 4.4g.on Titegroup/ 230gr plated Xtreme. 1.250" OAL.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Pequod · Feb 5, 2018

Why buy it then?

I am surprised you bought the gun, after reading all the negative things you believe or suspect about it!

For what it's worth, I own a non JM 625-8, with a CHT prefix. I believe it was made in 2004. Bought it used, absolutely love it and have had no problems with it with any ammo. I have a bunch of S&W revolvers, and ammo sensitivity is not something that any have exhibited. The 625-8 is my second lock gun, and the lock is simply ignored. Shoot it and enjoy it.

robvious · Feb 5, 2018

I have a NON JM 5 inch 625-8 - CJFxxxx... bought it new because I could not find a MODEL of 1989 in a condition or price I could stomach... mine is a tack driver even with cheap ball ammo... hope this helps... head to the range and enjoy...

Neumann · Feb 5, 2018

The JM 625 has a full barrel lug and shallow, electro-machined rifling. It is best used with jacketed bullets, and may lead excessively with cast bullets. The JM has a wide, grooved trigger, which may be great for rapid fire exhibitions, but many people find painful in short order. There may be a bullet diameter with works best with that cylinder and barrel.

I have a 625 Pro, which has a tapered barrel lug, the full S&W beauty school trigger treatment and deep cut rifling. It is equally good with jacketed and cast bullets. It is also one of the most accurate revolvers I own.

I am now reloading hard cast bullets by Laser-Cast (Oregon Trails), which are accurate, exhibit little if any leading, and seem to feed reliably in a semi-auto pistol (SIG P330 and S&W 1911).

1-1917 · Feb 5, 2018

Neumann said:
The JM 625 has a full barrel lug and shallow, electro-machined rifling. It is best used with jacketed bullets, and may lead excessively with cast bullets. The JM has a wide, grooved trigger, which may be great for rapid fire exhibitions, but many people find painful in short order. There may be a bullet diameter with works best with that cylinder and barrel.

I have a 625 Pro, which has a tapered barrel lug, the full S&W beauty school trigger treatment and deep cut rifling. It is equally good with jacketed and cast bullets. It is also one of the most accurate revolvers I own.

I am now reloading hard cast bullets by Laser-Cast (Oregon Trails), which are accurate, exhibit little if any leading, and seem to feed reliably in a semi-auto pistol (SIG P330 and S&W 1911).

That's really interesting. Everything else I've read about these states that the rifling is cut deeper and optimized for cast. What is your information source on that? And wide grooved trigger seems odd too. Mine is grooved alright but it sure isn't wide.

PlaytheAces · Feb 5, 2018

I have a 5" 625-8 I purchased new in 2002. Other than the fact the barrel seems to lead up a little more than I'd consider normal whenever I shoot lead bullets, it's always been a great gun. As accurate as any other I own and problem free.

What's the deal with the 625-8 guns?

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