How to check timing, lockup etc.

illinoimike · Nov 19, 2019

Probably not something I can fix but I’d like to know how to check timing on my 66-1 stubby. When I got it the barrel and all 6 cyl were heavily leaded. Worse I’ve ever seen. I’ve cleaned out the lead quite nicely but will continue to clean it before shooting. There was a small amount of lead around the top strap but no flash burn.
What’s the process to use to check timing.
The lockup is not the best I’ve had and I do not know how much play is acceptable.
Thanks for any and all help. Mike

illinoimike · Nov 19, 2019

I found a few good posts on lockup and timing. Pretty sure the timing is ok as the cylinder locks up just before the hammer falls. I do not know why everything was so leaded up but my guess it was firing was cutters most of the time and just wasn’t cleaned out. This gun belonged to an elderly man who passed on and the wife gave all of his guns to the LGS to sell for her. Gonna buy some lead remover and a bronze wire brush just to be sure all the lead is gone before shooting. Hopefully it shoots well and the story ends here.

BigBill · Nov 19, 2019

If it has that much leading you might have it checked with a range rod.

Mike in Reedley · Nov 19, 2019

The forcing cone is probably too shallow and/or rough. It may need to be re-cut. Brownell’s sells a tool for that and it’s easy to do. Shooting the gun with a sheet of paper adjacent to the cylinder gap is a good before and after test for a forcing cone re-cut.

Colts don’t fully lock up until the trigger is pulled, Smith’s however should be locked without the final trigger pull. With an unloaded gun, slowly cock the hammer, while gently applying drag to the cylinder with your thumb. Do this on all chambers. Once the hammer is cocked, the cylinder should be locked. If the cylinder need a little turn to get the stop engaged, then the timing is off. Gunsmithing is required to replace the hand.

mh51 · Nov 20, 2019

Your on the right track....do a thorough cleaning and then go shoot it to see if the problem persists. If it does, there are several minor issues such as end-shake (movement of the cylinder backward or forward) which can cause the problem. Most of these can be corrected by a S&W armorer without high cost or special tools to buy.

OldChief · Nov 20, 2019

Mike in Reedley said:
The forcing cone is probably too shallow and/or rough. It may need to be re-cut. Brownell’s sells a tool for that and it’s easy to do. Shooting the gun with a sheet of paper adjacent to the cylinder gap is a good before and after test for a forcing cone re-cut.

Colts don’t fully lock up until the trigger is pulled, Smith’s however should be locked without the final trigger pull. With an unloaded gun, slowly cock the hammer, while gently applying drag to the cylinder with your thumb. Do this on all chambers. Once the hammer is cocked, the cylinder should be locked. If the cylinder need a little turn to get the stop engaged, then the timing is off. Gunsmithing is required to replace the hand.

I agree with Mike but it could also require either a bit of adjustment on the cylinder stop or fitting a new stop as well. After a real good cleaning, if a problem persists, take it to a gun smith or S&W revolver armorer.

How to check timing, lockup etc.

illinoimike

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illinoimike

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BigBill

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Mike in Reedley

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mh51

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OldChief

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