Hello guys and gals,

Been doing some thinking on what future purchase I should be making. This gun would possibly be carried, but only on the rarest of occasions. This type of revolver would probably be shot with 70-80% .38 special or .38 +p and the remainder in .357 magnum.

Right off the bat, I just want to say that even though I do not care for the lock on modern S&W's, it has never stopped me from purchasing one. I have found no issues with the revolvers I have that have one, not even one time.

I am more of a shooter than I am a collector; none of my firearms are "safe queens" and all get to the range. I do have some nice vintage firearms, but they still get shot.

Let's go over the pros and cons of both, shall we?

Model 65 3"

Pros - Tried and true design. K frame (fits everyone). "Carries like a 2", shoots like a 4." Full length ejector rod. Fixed sights. Stainless steel. Round butt. Plenty of grips/holsters.

Cons - Forcing cone. Maybe does not keep up with modern lighter magnums as well. Lack of parts availability if something breaks. Price.

Model 66-8 2.75"

Pros - Mothership support as it is a current production firearm. K frame! Full length ejector rod. Modern ball & detent lockup. Full forcing cone. Stainless steel. Round butt. Plenty of grips/holsters.

Cons - For me, adjustable sights on a possible carry gun are a con; they can break if dropped just the right way. The orange sight can get washed out in certain lighting conditions. I would opt for a Bowen style rear sight (someone please chime in if you have experience with them) and a fiber optic front from Dawson or Hi-Viz. I guess we can put "the lock" in the cons section.

Also, I would change the grips for either gun to VZ boot grips.

S&W veterans, please chime in and let me know what direction to take! Also, please educate me if I have missed some details or said something wrong. Anything to help guide me.

All the best,
Crh1943

Howdy!

You may have answered your own question. If the only thing holding you back from the model 66-8 is the adjustable sights, you stated that you might carry the gun rarely. What are the odds of dropping a gun that isn't carried much. Even so, because the model is currently made, S&W will fix it for you in the unlikely event it does get dropped and damaged.

I own several older k frames and I love them, particularly the models with fixed sights. That being said, if I was going to carry a k frame on a regular basis, I might buy a 66-8 just because it would be easier to fix or replace. Hope this helps in your decision.

Of course if you just want a model 65 I don't blame you. I think it's my favorite among the older k frames.

I’d say the 66-8 because you said it wasn’t for collectability, and it would cost way less to purchase. Try the factory grips, you might like them!

I agree with Bill, above, and despite owning a 3" Model 64, and a 3" GP100 (with adjustable sights), I would like to find a shorter barrel Model 66 and may be limited to the current offering, due to its cult status, and the current political climate having created X million additional gun owners, many of whom with more money and/or less common sense than I, and willing to seriously overpay for anything gun-related (perhaps fueled by the regulatory changes proposed by their elected officials).

I don't mind the adjustable sights, which should be easily swapped, but don't care for the bead-blasted finish or the two-tone aesthetics. The only two tone anything I liked were the '80's Ford pickups.

Happy shopping!

Given a choice between adjustable sights and fixed Smith sights, I’ll take adjustable sights every time.

I’ve had no problems with supposedly fragile adjustable sights.

Adjustable sights are much, much quicker to acquire than Smith’s fixed sights for me. The added visibility and crisp sight picture provided by adjustable sights can’t be underestimated.

I carried a 66 “on the job” for many years and never dropped it. Now, that could happen but didn’t stop me nor does not driving to the store because I “might” get a flat tire stop me either...

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S&W factory revolver armorer

Way too much enfaces on fragile adjustable sights. They are very strong and reliable. when was the last time you ever heard of an adjustable sight falling off or malfunctioning when carried??? I personally love adjustable sights for the fact that you can tune the sights to the desired loading.

I prefer adj sights as well. However, I personally I have bought two old used smiths because I was able to negotiate value due to the busted rear sights, which clearly peened and broke from being dropped / slammed into something. In both cases it was just the blade, which for me is a five minute fix with my spare parts.

Coming from a different angle. Everybody likes the pretty girl, and the 2.75 in model 66 is simply the best looking revolver ever made, IMO.

3” Model 65 all day long over a Newer S&W. Forcing cone should never be an issue. If concerned, just dont use 110 & 125 grain bullets

I have a 66-8 2.75". The white outline rear sight and the orange front sight insert make target acquisition quicker than with my fixed sight revolvers, IMO. The rubber combat grips are a plus too, especially if you're planning to fire some stout 357 loads. I'd rather not have the lock, but it doesn't bother me at all.

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What could possibly go wrong?

If I were looking into buying a compact, 6-shot 357 Magnum S&W revolver for CCW, I would opt for the Model 66-8. The Model 66-8 does bring improvements in durability and a better lock system for the front of the cylinder, plus warranty support, should it ever be required.

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VCDL, GOA, NRA

I have had a 65 as a concealed carry revolver since the mid-80s. (I also have and carry a 3" 66-4) In an urban environment I carry +P.38 hollow point ammo. If it gets carried out in Penn's Woods I opt for a 158gr .357 semi-jacketed soft point.(this gets carried a lot but shot very little)

The cracked forcing cone issues was linked to the "hot" 125gr hollow point ammo of the 70s and 80s. Todays factory ammo is generally milder ... though Buffalo Bore ammo is said to be hotter than most.
If I need it I switch to a 4" L frame 686/681.

The 66-8 2.75 is probably my favorite handgun to shoot.
As far as carry goes, different decision..... photo of 6 shots vs 18.

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To cannon, all men are equal

I have the short 66-8. It’s excellent. The OEM grips are surprisingly comfortable. I’ve tried a few other grips but put the factory grips back on. Mostly shoot .38s but some mid level .357 reloads in it.
I’ve had the older 19s and a 13. Nice guns but the 66-8 is their equal to my way of thinking and stronger.

Thanks everyone for the input!

What do you guys know about the model 19 carry comp? That might be a good one. Is it blued?

I have both 2 3/4" 66-8 and the M19 carry comp. The carry comp is a dull blue (don't know what the finish is). I use and enjoy both, but don't think the carry comp is worth the extra money if you are only going to have one (just my opinion). In this market, you may have to get which ever one is available.

Carry Comp:
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M66-8
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FWIW,

Paul

The current Model 19 finish is blue. I thought compensators were great, until I was around them for a while. They direct hot gases up, which could be an issue if you ever had to fire the revolver close to your body, and are quite the noise maker, especially when shooting on a range that has a roof over the firing line.

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VCDL, GOA, NRA

A fellow shooter at the range a couple of weeks ago had a nice 66-8, brand new. He let me dry fire it, and the trigger was awful, but I have a feeling it's just because it hadn't been shot more than a few times. Gritty as can be. For those owners of 66-8's, does the trigger get smoother with use?

Something often overlooked by shooters is the fact that new firearms require a good cleaning and proper lubrication before shooting. It is not uncommon to find metal shavings in the lockwork of a new revolver, that may be even more true these days as manufacturers are making firearms as fast as they can. Machining debris in the lockwork will make the action very gritty. As for smoothing out from repeated use, the answer is absolutely yes. One reason older firearms often have wonderfully smooth actions is that the action has been used a lot and is well broken in.

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VCDL, GOA, NRA

I have a 66-8 2.75" that I specifically set up for carry. I'm in the fixed sight camp so I went with a fixed C&S CS0123RU Extreme Duty U Notch Fixed Rear Sight and a XS Sights #RV-0001N-4 - Standard Dot Front Sight. Sight acquisition is similar to my other semi's and works for me. Changed a few cosmetic pieces like the thumb piece/release & side plate screws to glass beaded finish ones and had a gunsmith perform a carry action job.

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Perfect setup! I may eventually buy one of these, and if I do, I'll set it up exactly the same way, except for an orange contour around the front tritium. The 66-8 comes with decent grips, but I happen to like the Hogues on yours and have the same pair on a Model 64 3".

Thanks for posting!

ETA, I appreciate the silver cylinder release, and think both it and a beefed up/reinforced ejection rod should be silver and not black as they currently come from factory!

I say get the 66-8 because that will be one less person outbidding me for a 3" 65.

Big fan of the 66-8's, I have a 4"and the 2.75". Both had very smooth actions from new. Both are very accurate. To eliminate the flat on the bottom of the barrel shank on the older K frames, they had to do away with the gas ring on the cylinder. That eliminates the source of the barrel cracking the older K frame magnums. The absence of the gas ring does allow fouling between the yoke barrel and the cylinder to build up and the cylinder can start to bind up. It's easy enough to clean, though.

Own an '04 Hi-Viz Davidson's Special 66-6, 3" and have been practicing at the range and now I'm as good with it as I am with my 686-3, 4 1/2"... Mostly shoot .38 special 158gr FMJ and it's size is great for CC...imo good looking smith check it out...good luck choosing...btw this has a 3 1/4" barrel...product code 162720.

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You’ve narrowed your options to two fine choices. Since the majority of your shooting will be with 38 ammo which limits risk to the 65 forcing cone, I’d say go for a 65. Your challenge may actually be finding a 65 3” at a reasonable price? For the record, I own both of those choices & I enjoy them both. If I had to choose between them, again the 65. Good luck

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"Non sibi, sed patriae"

I had a 66-8 with the worst trigger I'd ever gotten on a new revolver. I had a Model 19 Carry Comp with a great trigger (of course, that's a PC gun). The finish is blued, but unpolished. I have a 66 no dash well broken in that has an incredible action, but I'm unsure about carrying it due to the trigger stop. My 66-1 has a target trigger -- serrated triggers for carry are, to me a no-no. It is also like new, and the trigger is smooth but heavy. Probably doable, if not for the serrated trigger.

My Model 19-3 (blued) is nice all around, and I really should carry it. TBH, when I carry a revolver, it is either my Model 10-8 4" heavy barrel in nickel (BB or Underwood 158's +P), or my 586 L-Comp. I prefer the L-Comp with Barnes TAC-XPD 125 grain 357's, 1200 FPS from a 2" barrel.

The thing that has scared me off more than anything else from carrying any of my vintage .357 K frames is that I like 125 grain magnums, and you have to practice with your carry ammo.

If I had it all to do over again, I would get a 2.75" 66-8 and have a carry action job done on it, with a Wolff regular power mainspring and an extended firing pin

I have a 2.75" 66-8 and a 3" 66-2. While I think the 66-2 is a beautiful revolver and shoots quite well, I think the 66-8 is equally beautiful (in a different sort of way). The 66-2 tends to be a safe queen as it was an old duty gun that goes with my 66-2 4". The 66-8 shoots great and gets carried a lot. I intend to put the C&S fixed sights with the XS dot soon.

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Dave Frost

I have a 66-8 on the way; the goal is to retire the two K-frames that I usually carry (a 3" 65-2 and a nickeled 2.5" 19-4). My reasoning is about the same as others: Current support from the mothership and the ability to fire .357s without qualms.

If I like the gun a lot, herd reduction may be in the offing.

Just put one of these on it

Extreme Duty Fixed Sights and Sight Sets - Cylinder & Slide - Handguns parts and accessories

And it's back at the mothership. This was the first target shot, with the rear sight untouched. The group was shot from a rest at 25':



With the group shooting to point-of-aim, again from a rest, this was the position of the rear sight:



I sent the photo of the target group in with the letter of explanation.

So we shall see...

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It’s not always the gun. For years I thought I kept getting revolvers that shot to the left. When I accumulated a pile of S&Ws with rear sights fully cranked for the right, it dawned in me…I was the problem. But, I’m very repeatable in my error

I understand that point. But I have several fixed-sight Smiths that shoot to point of aim. The adjustable sights on my 15-3 and 686-1 are centered in windage. And I was shooting the 66-8 from a braced position and single-action.

So I'm fairly confident that it wasn't me.

I shot a friend's earlier model 66 with a 3 inch barrel a few years ago and his rear sight had to be cranked all the way to the right too. My 66-8 doesn't have that problem. It shoots quite well. I like the VZ round butt grips on it.

66-8 on top, 69 on bottom:

I recently acquired a 66-8 and it has been a champ right out of the box. Gave it a good clean and lube and off to the range. 110's, 125's, 148 WC's, 158's; .38, .38+P or .357 all shot POA and never touched the sights. Trigger was smooth from the start but "seemed" a little heavy at first. By the time round 50 was down the tube I was actually amazed at how nice the trigger had become, no creep and a sharp break. The pistol is quite accurate with what ever I feed it. I don't have any concerns with fragility of the adjustable sights but I appreciate those that have listed the part numbers from C&S and XS as this is the setup that came on my Night Guard and I have found them to be very quick for these old eyes of mine.
About two months in now with the 66-8 as my EDC in either a cross draw (I spend a lot of time behind the wheel) or speed scabbard from K.L. Null and charged with Federal .357 130gr. Hydra-Shoks. I really like this pistol with the sole exception it's a little heavy...

I received it. The repair ticket says that they adjusted the barrel alignment and repaired the yoke.

Range trip TBD.

The range trip was a failure. I got the gun sighted in, shooting several three-shot groups. If I did my part, the groups were very tight.

But then I shifted from shooting very slowly from a rest (single-action) to shooting from a stance, double action. I was not cranking the rounds out rapidly, at best, at timed-firing pace. On about the third cylinder, it jammed up on the third or fourth shot. I got the cylinder open, none of the fired rounds had high primers. I reloaded, same thing. After checking it and replacing the fired rounds, it jammed on the second shot.

The B/C gap looks to be extremely tight. There is no endshake.

My gut-feeling is that they turned in the barrel and shroud to correct the cant. That might have made the gap too tight.

I'll clean the gun up tomorrow and contact Customer Service. I am disappoint.

A too small of a barrel-cylinder gap can certainly tie up a revolver. The ideal gap is 0.006". I have run Dan Wesson 357's, which have the removable barrel, I experimented with gaps of less than 0.006". At 0.003", the minimum recommended for any revolver, unburned powder granules would bind between the barrel and cylinder. Fouling was less of an issue at 0.004" and not an issue at 0.005". This testing was performed with full power 357 Magnum ammo.

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VCDL, GOA, NRA

It's on its way back for a look-see.

The gun came back in November. The sights were better, it took me only a click in windage to get them to where I wanted.

But the gun would not run. When I started firing it double-action, after the second or third cylinder-full, it locked up. I could not pull the trigger through. It took some pressure to open the cylinder; none of the primers were high. I was shooting FMJ practice ammo (W-W white box). This happened three times in a row.

I sent the gun back. It came back to me three days ago, with notes that they had adjusted the yoke, the ejection rod and the hand.

I took it to the range yesterday. Pretty much the same thing, except that it took four cylinders of cartridges for the problem to resurface. I was shooting it at about the pace that I would in a USPSA match; not slow, not overly fast.

I shot a video of one of the attempts. As you can see, I got off two rounds and then the gun wouldn't cycle.


We've got a blizzard coming in, so I'll clean up the gun and pack it up, again. I'll contact S&W CS next week. This will make three times in for repair for a gun with less than 200 rounds through it. I'm thinking of asking them to send me another gun or buy it back.

S&W is replacing the gun.

This is a good outcome. 👍 That it was sold like that and had to be sent back so many times, not so much.
Your new revolver will be great I’m sure. Let us know how it shoots.

I’ve got a “too nice to carry” 2 1/2” 19-3.

To resolve that problem I’ve got a 2 3/4” 66-8 on order with my LGS with an unknown ETA.

To resolve that problem I’ve got a pair of 4” 65-5s, one of which will be cut to 3”. However, every shop that would cut the barrel and redo the front sight has a really long backlog.

To resolve that problem I have a nickel 19-5 on the way that had a price which would allow me to sell it at a price that would cover shipping and transfer costs. (Though I’m kidding myself, if it’s as nice as it seems I’ll end up keeping it.)

ETA: This is a great thread. Thanks to all the members who contributed and to OP for starting it. Condolences to StephanieB for all the trouble and disappointment. Hope the replacement 66-8 runs perfectly.

Hard to beat a 3" model 65.....the one in the middle....the top is a too nice to carry 66-4 3" magna port... the bottom is an unfired -1 2.5" 66.....

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I picked up the new replacement gun from the LGS yesterday. The B/C gap looks a skosh larger than on the first gun.

I took it to the range this morning. The elevation adjustment screw is frozen. I wrote CS and told them that if it wouldn't void the warranty, then they can send me a new rear sight assembly. If not, then to send me a RMA label and I'll send them the gun. (For the fourth time, between this one and the last one.)

Wow. Just incredible.

How can a company as large as S&W not have basic procedures in place to make 100% sure that a WARRANTY REPLACEMENT GUN is hand inspected for quality control prior to shipping?

It's bad enough that the customers original gun was so poorly made that it couldn't be repaired after 3 return trips to the factory, but they add insult to injury by grabbing another random gun off the assembly line and shipping it to the customer as a warranty replacement without even looking it over.

It might just be time to ask them to cut you a check for your original purchase price.

Just to comment a bit further on all of this...

If I ran the S&W warranty department, I'd make sure that every gun that was returned for warranty service was inspected by two different technicians as well as a supervisor prior to being shipped back to the customer. Additionally, both techs and the supervisor would have to initial a quality control tag and a digital logbook so that if that gun came back in a second time we would know who dropped the ball. Especially with todays workforce, people no longer seem to automatically take pride in their work. The only way to keep people accountable is by having a system in place that can trace problems back to the individual causing them.

I backed off the rear sight leaf screw. The rear of the sight assembly appears to be jammed in place. I wasn't about to try messing with it.

So back it goes.....

It came back and yesterday I took it to the range. After sighting it in, I ran a box of .38 Remington range ammo through it, all double-action. On the first gun, it would have been around cylinder #3 that the gun would freeze up. Not this time, and I was trying to get things as warm as possible.

I rolled a new target downrange to about 25' and began shooting .357s, all double-action, going as fast as I reasonably could. About half were what was left of a box of Magtech .357 FMJs, the rest were Federal 158grn JSPs. The Federals were a bit more sporty (and not a round that I'd continue to fire with the factory grips).

I shot thirty rounds and this was the target:



So, the gun works. After a replacement, four trips in total to the Mothership and over eight months from the day I bought the first one.

I like the gun. I think that I will be happy to have it. I'll shoot it in some combat matches and I will carry the gun (with Ranger .38+P until I can get some .357 short-barrel ammo). But would I do it over again?

Not on your life.

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