I read all different answers to the question which one is more powerful? In a revolver.

The 10 mm / 10 mm magnum
Vs.
The 357 mg, 41 mg, 44 mg

Who’s the top dog in a shootout, for accuracy, power?

I read the 10 mm is close to the 357 mag. But the posters say it’s closer to the 41 mg. Is the 10 mm mag closer to the 41 mag? Where does the 44 mag place in this line up.

I understand everyone has a opinion but what’s the honest truth.

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Plant garlic in the fall

Many of the boutique companies such Underwood, Double Tap etc. have 10mm offerings that push hard at the bottom end of the full house loads from Winchester etc. of the 41 mag.

Not exactly apples and oranges, but close. If relegated to a revolver, the 10mm, is just another cartridge. .357 if loaded at the original loadings of a 158 gr. bullet at 1500 fps, is quite a handful. Most .357's are loaded much lighter. The 10mm rounds loaded by Underwood, a 200 gr. bullet, at 1200 fps is certainly lethat, and has proven itself against bears. Loading it in a revolver limits it to 6 rounds, and while very accurate, and quick to reload using moon clips, you are limiting yourself for no reason. 10mm is my edc in a 1911. The .41 mag is capable of equaling the .44 magnum, but only with loads that punish on both ends. I love my .41's, but not for edc. The .44 mag is the King, in number of loads, bullet designs, availability, and versatility. Just beware when looking at the "magnums," there is a reason that many of us have picked up lightly used, as in only fired six rounds or less, magnums, on the used market.

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Jeff Cooper once stated that the 10MM will do at 75 yards what the 45ACP will do at 35 yards. I had a few 10MM autos and there were only two that would take the stout loads. My delta Elite Locked the slide back at just over 1150 fps. The Desert eagle and the LAR Grizzly wouldn't function reliably at 1200 fps. Never shot any heavy through My Bren Ten. Ruger BH and RH I shot 220 SWC at close to 1550. very accurate. In My Smiths I keep the 220's around 1300. When I ran the Magnum Match at My gun club I required the pistols to belch flame and recoil. Minimum loads 44/240/1250, 41/210/1250, 357/158 1300. When members requested to shoot the 10MM My reply was that They had to get in the right zip code. The 10MM is a great semi auto horsepower cartridge and it is staging a comeback in EDC guns. I sometimes carry the Bren Ten just for giggles when I'm going to be around a bunch of LEO's.

Case capacity is the deciding factor:

Capacity in H²O Wt./gr. (All are Starline cases)

10 Auto = 24.1gr

357 Mag= 26.7gr

10 Mag = 31.8gr

41 Mag = 33.8gr

44 Mag = 37.6gr

.

Powder = power

.

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Waiting for the break of day

My experience with the 10mm Auto has been, so far, limited to the Colt Delta Elite. I found the 10mm Auto to be highly versatile, very much like the 357 Magnum. In terms of power, I consider the 10mm Auto to be every bit equal to the 357 Magnum and in original, Norma style loads, it falls between the 357 Magnum and 41 Magnum.


I have no experience with the 10mm Magnum, but it strikes me as being a substitute for a revolver chambered in 41 Magnum. Personally, if I need that sort of power, rather than rechamber a 10mm revolver into a hard to find boutique caliber, I'll buy a 41 Magnum revolver or use the 44 Magnum, which is much easier to find.

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VCDL, GOA, NRA

10 mm has a higher SAAMI pressure allowance than 357.
There's an efficiency gain from gas pushing on a a larger piston.
And 10 mm can use heavier bullets than 357.

So to answer the question, 44>41>10>357 for power potential.

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To cannon, all men are equal

BLUEDOT and shocker are both right. It is both amount of room for powder as well as the allowed pressure in a given case.

I.E. factory 45 colt at standard pressure can't hold a candle to 44 mag at SAAMI pressures. However, if you ignore SAAMI, you can push the same bullet at the same weight out of a 45 colt with less pressure than you can a 44 mag. At the same pressures, the 45 colt is more powerful. However, you must be mindful of whether the gun and cases can handle that pressure.

Rosewood

10mm is NOT more powerful than the 357 Magnum. At its best 10mm is equal to a good 357, everyone that keeps saying otherwise is just repeating BS. 10mm can hold heavier bullets, that's it. As far as the 41 Mag, the old story that the 10mm is its equal is also BS. If you have to compare the weakest 41 ever loaded to the most powerful 10mm ever loaded to try and make your point, you already lost. Too much lore and ego surrounding the 10mm for most people to admit the truth. Underwood makes the hottest factory ammo I've seen in both 357 and 10mm and their 125gr 357 at 1700 fps and 802 ft-lbs beats any of their 10mm loads in any weight. Until someone can provide a 10mm load that bests that, the 357 is still the winner. The 10mm Mag is a different story, but since nobody has ever commercially produced a handgun in it that I've found, it's no more than a wildcat cartridge. Our feelings may vary but numbers don't lie...

Answer is, that within certain limits, it depends. .44M is king of the hill, no matter what, in the lineup you mention. Case capacity and bullet weight rules there. .41M is next, neither 10mm or .357M can quite reach, again, case capacity and bullet weight matters.

Now, when you get to the 10mm vs. .357M debate, is where the lines blur. Powder type, powder weight and bullet weight combinations can make either one superior to the other, but they're all pretty close and whatever you'd happen to shoot probably couldn't tell which one hit them at effective ranges.

I don't shoot a lot of .44M, but .41M is my favorite bus-stopping round, and I shoot it frequently from both a 4" and a 6" barrel. It definitely has an edge over .357M and 10mm. I also shoot a fair amount of .357, from three different revolvers, and 10mm from a 1911. I don't feel that there's significant difference between one or the other (revolver/pistol) in how the rounds perform, aside from barrel length. The 1911 has less felt recoil than the wheel guns, but it's still quite sharp, more than .45 ACP from the same platform.

And rbcd makes a 10mm 77gr at 2400fps for 1015 ft-lbs....

357 Magnum: Smaller bullet, more case capacity.
41 Magnum: Bigger bullet, much more case capacity.
44 Magnum: Much bigger bullet, much, much more case capacity.

10mm Auto is on par with the 357 and is much less powerful than 41 mag or 44 mag.

10mm is much better in an auto than any of the above, and worse in a revolver than any of the above.

The "10 mag" is a boutique round that doesn't really have much following. There's nothing it can do that a 41 or 44 mag can't do better.

To answer your question, the "top dog" is easily the 44 Magnum if you mean tops for power.

Accuracy is going to be a function of the firearm. All of these rounds are capable of exceptional accuracy.

My 10mm holds 16 rounds, 18 with +2, your 357 mag holds 6 rounds. I win!

first one must be able to hit their intended target or threat! If you miss what's it matter? you loose. So it comes down to practice and become intimately familiar with your firearm.

Second I really don't think a BG (bad guy) would know the difference if he was hit by a 10mm, 357 mag, 41 mag or 44 mag

All are very capable of stopping the threat!

44 Mag is still the king but, if you can't hit anything with it its a hammer and a new gun for the BG!

What length barrel are they getting 1700 FPS in? Barrel length matters significantly. I have noticed a lot of load data for 357 mags are using 6" and sometimes up to 10" barrels for their test. Most 10mm test are done in 5" barrels. In my 16.5" 10mm carbine, I am pushing a 180 xtp to 1555 FPS at well over 900 ft*lbs of energy.

Numbers don't lie, but sometimes pertinent details are omitted.

Rosewood

Against 2 legged urban critters all of magnums are more than sufficient. It comes down to bullet construction.
I give the edge to 41mag for accuracy. Underrated cartridge imho.
If you dont reload however sourcing ammo could be a problem and the edge goes to 10mm/40sw

That is true if you go with what Norma printed on the box. That was before YouTube was full of reviewers with chronographs so they were better able to get away with exaggerated velocity claims. I have only found two reviews of people chronographing the original Norma ammo through real guns and in those cases the actual velocities fell 180 and 220 fps short of the legendary numbers printed on the boxes:

Original Norma 170 grain. Claimed 1400 fps, actual 1219.

Original Norma 200 grain. Claimed 1200 fps, actual ~980.

KE = 1/2m*v2 applies to any projectile. The 10mm is far more of a .357 magnum than it is a .41 magnum. Physics.

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No good deed goes unpunished.

Your question is poorly presented at best, lack any qualifications.

All these calibers are capable of equal accuracy dependent on the firearm. In a shootout accuracy is more dependent on the handler than the firearm or caliber in today's world.

As already stated case capacity is the limitation of the power (for lack of better term) when all things are equal which is rarely the case. When coupled with pressure things move.

You would be much better served by discussions on bullet construction and shoot placement as these are what actually determine the lethality of the shoot.

Yes, momentum is important only to the point that the bullet can reach the vitals. Before all the KE fan boys jump in let me point out that KE is a calculation and not a measurement and has little to no bearing on permanent wound channel size especially in typical handgun calibers.

Bottom line, choose your bullet carefully and practice, especially if plan to be in a shootout.

Where is my popcorn?

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Ruggy

I have a copy of a page from a reloading book (somewhere, prolly in my notebook), with 10mm load data using 135 gr Nosler JHP at 1700 fps. I want to say it was using 800X, but I can't recall for sure.

A fellow that owned a strictly reloading shop was a 10mm fanatic, he was telling me about it a few years back, then backed it up by showing it to me. I asked him to make a copy of the page, then bought the 135 gr Nosler JHP and the powder, but I never followed through with loading any. I'll try and find it this evening.

Hopefully it will show what barrel length it was tested in. Most likely longer than my only 10mm (1076). I would think that load would be the tippy top for a 10mm. Unfortunately the fellow that showed it to me is no longer with us. (no, he didn't blow himself up, medical issues did him in and the shop is now closed) But I do have that copy somewhere in my records.

A 135 gr JHP at 1,700 fps should be pretty fierce.

Before this thread inevitably turns into some sort of competition between folks who associate the cartridge they carry with their own masculinity, lets get some facts out of the way before it all gets bogged down by tall tales regarding the explosive capabilities of various folks pet cartridges.

When comparing full-power loads, the 10mm Auto is roughly equivalent to .357 Magnum, maybe a touch more energy at best than .357 Magnum, but nowhere near a full-power .41 Magnum.
In terms of simple Energy Footpounds, both the .357 Magnum and .10mm Auto generate roughly 700ft-lbs of energy out of a handgun with a 6" barrel when comparing full-power loads.
Some folks will claim that they've gotten 1000ft-lbs or more out of a 10mm Auto handload, which would be approaching .41 Magnum performance, but the issue is that they're seldom forthcoming regarding the exact details of precisely how they managed to achieve 1000ft-lbs or more. Obviously those numbers are possible with a combination of a lightweight bullet, hot load, and/or a carbine-length barrel, but at that point it's no longer a fair comparison because a lightweight/hot .357 Magnum load fired from a 16"+ barrel is probably going to perform similarly.
Furthermore, assuming lightweight bullets are used, then congratulations, you've got a round which looks really impressive on paper in terms of sheer numerical values, yet isn't really practical to use in any particular role. So yeah, maybe it comes close to .41 Magnum in terms of raw numerical figures, but in terms of actual performance it most likely wouldn't come anywhere near close.

Folks often argue that .357 Magnum is superior to 10mm Auto because it will penetrate deeper, but 10mm Auto carries more momentum, so it's a trade-off. Besides, both are typically going to pass straight through whatever animal in North America you're going to shoot with either, or at the very least they'll go as deep as you need them to go, so you can pretty much ignore that argument because it's about as meaningful as "My dad could totally beat up your dad" not to mention about as productive.

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Shooting Comfort is bilateral.

Very well written Forte!

You realize that once you ream your 10mm Auto cylinder out to 10mm Magnum your DON'T have to shoot only 10 MAG in it?

You can STILL shoot 10mm Auto which means you STILL can shoot 40 S&W in it, just like before.

Starline produces 10 MAG brass & pre-pandemic it was readily available. Nothing is now.

But, as of today, Starline's website will accept a backorder for 10 MAG but will not accept orders for any of these others.

And jacketed .40/10mm bullets are far more plentiful, & varied, than .41 bullets. I have three .41s, I know.

Also, why do you have to choose between one cartridge or another. The more the merrier.

A wheelgun chambered in 10 MAG is just another tool to use as seen fit.

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If case volume doesn't convince people which cartridge packs more power, I wonnder how many people here would pick a 350c.i. V8 over a 427c.i. V8 if you wanted the most power, all things equal.

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Waiting for the break of day

Fully aware that after reaming, a 10mm Magnum cylinder will still safely accept and fire 10mm Auto. As for a 350 small block Chevy vs a 427 big block, you can get more power out of the big block, but it comes with the penalty of more weight and increased fuel consumption, which makes it less appealing for daily use.

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VCDL, GOA, NRA

44 magnum is still top dog in both power and accuracy in your list of cartridges ... (old Elmer Keith got this one right too).

We are Not counting the 500 S&W Magnum ...that's a whole other level of power .
Gary

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Certified Cajun
NRA Member

This chart pretty much tells the story ... and along with powder capacity the 10mm uses the lightest bullets ... they start increasing in weight untill you hit the 44 magnum ...250 gr. to 300 gr. bullet weights .
Gary

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Certified Cajun
NRA Member

I hear the 10 mm is equal to the 41 mag, this, that what ever so I figured I would ask the gurus here. I know nothing about the 10 mm rounds.

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Plant garlic in the fall

10 mm Auto is a great option. It’s a 40 & W too. 44 mag is a fine option, Maximum power, 357 is great, versatile it’s a 38 special . I’ll keep all three.


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Sorry that is misinformation. The 41mag is about 1.3-1.5x energy of the 10mmAuto. I would not want to think what a 41mag would do in a 1911 style pistol.
BUT The revolver only 10mmMAg is pretty close to 41mag

Guess you haven't seen the 460 Rowland conversion kit in a 1911. 44 Mag ballistics in 1911 platform.

Rosewood

That is a myth that just will not go away. The 10mm Auto equals and can slightly exceed the energy of the 357 Magnum, but it falls well short of the 41 Magnum. Take a look at published handgun ballistics tables.

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Taffin on the 10mm Magnum
Taffin Tests the 10mm Magnum

Well, from the ballistics expert who was a dedicated Wheelgun Man at heart, John Taffin believed the 10mm Magnum eclipsed the .41 Magnum, and that was from a long-barreled autoloader, the old IAI Mk IV.
From the 6.5" barrel of a 'converted' S&W 610 (i.e., with cylinder chambers reamed to 10mm Mag specs), you can generate some really impressive fps/fpe stats across a wide range of 10mm/40-cal bullets, jacketed or hardcast.

Not to mention, from one platform, and using the same moonclips, you can shoot 3 cartridges: .40S&W, 10mm AUTO, & 10mm Mag.

As a hunting handgun, a 6.5" 610 or Ruger's long-barreled 10mm SRH (after undergoing the aforesaid Magnum conversion), the 10mm Mag would really shine when loaded with the newer generation of poly-coated and/or gas-checked, heavy HC boolits - those running from 200gns, 220gns, 230gns.

Attached Images

IMG_1042.JPG (39.2 KB, 26 views)

I think there is some confusion here with wording. The 10mm Auto falls short of the .41 mag, but sounds like the 10mm Magnum equals or possibly exceeds it depending on the load and weapon.

Rosewood

Maybe any confusion stems from the way the OP worded the question in his post (?).

He included, or referenced, the 10mm Magnum and seemed to be asking folks to compare it - and its smaller sibling, the 10mm AUTO - to the three traditional revolver magnums. No?

Yes, but some of the responses seemed to have gotten them confused.

YES anyone shoot with a well place well constructed bullet from any of these will have meet his maker.

So what is the point/value of this discussion?

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Ruggy

Anyone can buy 357mag & 44mag revolvers, and 10mm autos. Nobody can buy 10mm magnum and 41mag is pretty rare too.

A 4" revolver is equivalent to a 5" pistol.

The 10mm and 357mag are in the same KE class. Both can do the work to shove a proper bullet a long ways through flesh and bone when penetration is wanted. And both can do the work to shove an expanding bullet to tear up a lot of tissue in a relatively short distance. Because the frontal area of the 357mag is smaller than the 10mm, 357mag bullets can penetrate further with less work.

The 44mag is in a higher KE class and can do more of the same.

The greater the resistance offered by the target, the greater the work required to shove a bullet through it.

"Use the right tool" - Anton Chigur in "No country for old men".

LOL, now your trying to add restrictions to the comparison.

You can't make more power without burning more fuel, be it gas or gun powder.

Daily use?

More power, from more cubic inches will offset the extra weight.

Besides you can just make the block out of Sc/Al alloy & then you can pocket carry it.

.

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Waiting for the break of day

I posted this previously:

.

Using actual measurements & weights, from my previous handloading data with the 10MAG & 41MAG, I verified something I had noticed but hadn't calculated before.

As mentioned, the empty case capacity of a 10MAG is ~5.9% (or 2.0grs) less than a 41MAG's, but bullet seating depth affects the final available capacity.

.
In the 10MAG, a 165gr JHP loaded to 1.555" COAL (which is also max. COAL") is seated .265" deep in the case & uses 26.5% of the empty case capacity.

This leaves 23.37grs. of case volume available. (31.8gr-26.5%)

.
In the 41MAG, a 170gr JHC loaded to 1.560" COAL is seated .305" deep (which is to the cannelure) in the case & uses 30.1% of the empty case capacity.

This leaves 23.63grs. of case volume available. (33.8gr-30.1%)

.
The difference between the two is a surprising 1.1% or 0.26grs., a negligible difference.

.

However,

In the 10MAG, a 180gr JHP loaded to 1.555" COAL (which is also max. COAL") is seated .306" deep in the case & uses 30.6% of the empty case capacity.

This leaves 22.07grs. of case volume available. (31.8gr-30.6%)

The difference between the two then changes to 6.6% or 1.56grs., still pretty close.

.

If you have essentially the same amount of powder pushing essentially the same weight bullet then the 10MAGs slightly higher max. SAAMI pressure (37.5K -vs- 36K psi) comes into play.

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Waiting for the break of day

Actually, any 10mm revolver, which you can buy, is potentially a 10mm Magnum. All that's required is for a competent wheelgun 'smith to ream the cylinders.

Over the years, as the possibility of the 'Magnum' conversion became more widely known among 610 owners, a number of 'smiths offered this service, e.g., Hamilton Bowen who was probably best known but there were others, like Gary Reeder.

The 10mm Magnum conversion can be done on Ruger's 10mm revolvers as well, not just the 610s.

Regardless of the particular revolver, however, I've always have a slight two-pronged quibble with it: it only makes sense when done on the same size 'frame' as found on a .41 Mag, AND for practical use in the field, the conversion only makes sense where there's a barrel of at least 6" to take advantage of the Magnum ballistics.

In Ruger's case, the bulky SRH is overbuilt for even the really hot, top-end 10mm AUTO loads; however, it's the perfect platform to convert into a '10mm Magnum Hunter.'

If we are going the aluminum block route, then an aluminum small block with a custom stroker kit to make a 427 small block. Best of both worlds.





Excellent analysis. This goes back to what I previously said, the 10mm Magnum always struck me as an attempt to put the 10mm cartridge into 41 Magnum territory. From everything I have read, 10mm Magnum will still fall a little short of full power 41 Magnum loads. There can also be issues with the bullets, which are designed for 40 S&W and 10mm ballistics and most lack a crimping groove.

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These guys offer a '10mm Magnum Hunter' conversion of Ruger revolvers, but others too:

Aria Ballistic Engineering, Inc.

Actually, it was initially an attempt to put that ballistic level into the platform of a long-barreled semi-auto pistol (the IAI Mk IV), not a revolver.

Not what Taffin's testing documented.

And as far as bullets, Hornady XTPs & FMJ-FPs can handle magnum velocities, while the modern poly-coated HC 10mm slugs of 220gns are similarly designed (e.g., SNS Casting).

Check out the 10mm/40-cal, gas-checked, 200gn wide-meplat HC slug offered by Montana Bullet Works ... pic attached

Attached Images

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I did one of those. And a whole lot cheaper than $500! Reamer was only $80, IIRC. It is a bit labor intensive, though.

My latest project

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USS Brewton FF1086
SWCA#3597

Awesome work there!

Thank you sir!

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USS Brewton FF1086
SWCA#3597

Do those of you shooting 10mm magnums ever have issues with bullet creep?

I never noticed a problem with that with the 610 I used to own but it was stock 10mm, not a magnumized conversion. Something with 41 Magnum recoil and bullets with no crimp groove sounds a lot like a kinetic bullet puller.

Owners of 610s that were converted to 10mm Magnum use the Lee 10mm Factory Crimp Die to crimp bullets.

Jacketed or hard cast, no crimp groove needed.

For reference, I have some load results from my 8" Banshee with Hornady 155 XTP and AA#9 powder. Accurate lists loads for that combination ranging from 14.3 gr (1244 fps) to 15.9 gr (1414 fps) from a 5" barrel. I loaded as far as 15.4 gr and got 1535 fps with an SD of 12 from the Banshee. Again, that was a 155 gr bullet and .5 gr below max so the 135 gr at 1700 fps, at least from that barrel length, would not be a stretch. The same chart shows a Sierra 135 gr at 1503 fps from the 5" barrel with a max charge of AA #5.

...and here we go....

The actual amount of "power" carried by a bullet exiting a barrel is related to velocity, which means barrel length is as much of the "equation" as powder loading. The .357 magnum CAN produce quite large numbers of KE, but that's when the bullets are emerging from longer barrels that make use of that extra case capacity, and compensates for the lower bore thrust of a .355" versus .400". From a 4" barrel, a 158 grain bullet hitting 1,350 fps from a .357 Magnum is quite a stout load. The 10mm can hit the same velocity from a 4.6" - 5" auto barrel with a 180 grain bullet. Also, both 10mm and .357 Magnum are loaded all over the place commercially. Gone are the days when you had well-defined parameters because some 10mm labeled ammo isn't even reaching 500 lb-ft, and heavier bullet .357 ammo can also come in well under 500 lb-ft - especially from 2-2.5" barrels!

Now, if one starts with a longer barreled .357 Magnum and hand loads it's entirely possible to put up numbers that make .41 Magnum worry, but that is NOT the most often found version of .357 Magnum revolvers.

As for brute force, the .44 magnum from a 6" barrel is still king and the .41 Magnum is the Crown Prince. The .44 is a .429" bullet and the .41 is a .410" bullet which means both are impinging on nearly the same bore area during firing.

When we drop back to 4" barrels things change in a hurry because that extra case capacity cannot be used. It is quite common to chronograph .44 Magnum 240 grain ammo from 4" barrels at less than 1,200 fps, and even less than 1,150 fps depending on various factors. This is where the 10mm creeps up on it. Underwood 10mm ammo can exceed 700 lb-ft of energy from a 4.6" G20, or 5" 1911 with 180 grain and even 200 grain bullets...that's WAY over what any 4" barrel .357 magnum is going to do, and right in the wheelhouse of the mighty .44 magnum when it is fired from 4" barrels.

At similar energies the 10mm will have slightly better penetration than the .44 magnum when using 220 grain bullets.

Now compare guns. The gun that REALLY saved the 10mm from extinction was the Glock 20 because it came out when the Delta Elite was having teething problems, AND at an affordable price. The G20 proved to be the "right answer" to the 10mm question with it's 4.6" barrel and 15+1 round capacity. The G20 can easily handle Underwood level loads. drop in a 6" barrel and suddenly that 700 lb-ft of energy gun goes to 800+ lb-ft of energy with a full 15 on tap. Which would ANYONE other than a petulant child, choose; a 6 shot revolver in .357/.41/.44 over 16 rounds of 10mm in a MUCH lighter package, lower recoil, and much faster reload time? And yes, based on "the numbers" I absolutely WOULD prefer to be facing down a charging grizzly with 16 rounds of 10mm over a 6 shot revolver!

Put into better perspective, 16 rounds of 10mm pushing 200 grain FMJ FP slugs delivering 700 lb-ft of energy provides 11,200 lb-ft of total energy, and each bullet is capable of punching through a bear's face, skull, or penetrating deeply into the torso IF the shooter is aiming as opposed to just banging off shots wildly. By contrast, even the mightly 500 S&W delivering 400 grain slugs at 1,400 fps - a VERY stout load from a 4" barrel, tops out at 8,700 lb-ft of energy with just FIVE "tries" to "get her done" to use the vernacular! Granted, each .500 slug has double the energy, but consider that if the 10mm bullet has "enough" energy to smash the skull and reach the vitals then more isn't nearly as important to the equation as more SHOTS! No bear on this planet is going to take multiple, face and skull fracturing hits to the face and keep coming, so if either caliber is employed with proper effectiveness, the 10mm is the better choice. Quite simply, the 10mm is the "best turn-key" solution, and certainly a G20 or G40 with 15-26 rounds potential beats all the much pricier 1911 based choices.

Having said all that, there are those who simply will not trust their life to an autoloading handgun and the monster .44 Magnum (and .41M) are certainly as potent today as they were 40 years ago. For those who have the ability to make each shot count, my preference is for the S&W 500 4" stoked with 380 gr. Matt's hard cast, gas-checked slugs at a chronograph verified 1,450 fps. (The .500 is Emperor!)