Hi Everyone

I've been trying to put together a summary of what someone may need to look for when inspecting a Used Revolver for sale. I include myself as being the first "dummie" as when I started the list, it was just something I was going to use myself. Now, I'm looking at putting it into a Word document and distributing it amongst my Pistol Club members.

Feedback welcomed and appreciated. If anyone has photograph I could use as examples (apart from on-line images), that would be great too (eg. Cracked forcing cone)

Research
(When you know what you are looking for - As opposed to sudden unexpected Gun Show find)
• History of the Make and Model
• Serial Numbers
• Fakes – Eg “Wells Fargo” S&W No. 3’s
• Recalls – Eg “M” on 586 and 686 No Dash and Dash 1.

On-line finds
• Ask for additional photographs
• Ask about History of the Revolver
• Ask about additional items like box, tools, manuals, etc.
• Additional magazines (10 round V/S High Capacity)

Cosmetics (Ask to Inspect – Take Glasses and Flashlight)
• Inspect overall outside appearance – Rust etc
• Original finish V/S Rebluing? EG, Shallow Engraving
• Case Colour – Trigger and Hammer
• Matching Serial Numbers?
• Side plate screws condition – Clean V/S Scratched Up – Bubba?
• Seam of Side Plate – tight V/S gaps.
• Barrel – Rings and Bulges, Sharp Rifling? Bright Bore?
• Barrel Crown – Damaged?
• Cylinder Turn Line – indicates wear.
• Cylinder Charge Holes – Rings and Bulges
• Ejector Rod Wear
• Ejector Rod Straight
• Forcing Cone Gap
• Forcing Cone wear or cracks
• End Shake
• Trigger – OEM V/S After Market – Trigger Stop?
• Sights – Are they correct or have they been modified?
• Rattles?
• Firing Pin on hammer - Condition
• Top Strap flame cutting
• Recoil Shield condition
• Period correct Stocks/Grips?
• Condition of Grips – Loose? Cracks etc?
• Ask to remove stocks/grips – check for rust, recalls, factory returns. Eg “M” (686 ND) or “N” (Factory Nickel)

Action (Ask to dry-fire first)
• Obviously check that the Revolver is empty and point in Safe Direction
• Trigger (Both DA and SA) – Gritty? Smooth? Action Job?
• Hammer Push-off
• Timing

Live Fire - Where possible, ask to shoot.

Purchase / Negotiation
• Original V/S Modified

Personally, I think I can assess all of the criteria on your list, though I'm a little vague in how to check timing.

Since I'm only interested in high condition/low mileage rimfire guns, I think I'm pretty safe.
I've encountered a few that were a little gummed up, but that was easy enough to rectify.

Obviously one of the biggest problems, I would think, would be under the "fakes" heading. That's a tough one for an ordinary Joe like me. My only savior of Grace would be I can't afford a rare expensive handgun, so I would say "nice gun" and move on. That makes me sick when people "misrepresent" the gun or any other article when it's truly just a $500 shooter. Nice tips.

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Waiting For The Sun.

Barrel cants and loose trigger and hammer pins.
Oh and dry fire every chamber in SA/DA. In both.

And cycle action to check for correct indexing on each stop.

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-jwk-
US Army '72-'95

That looks like a pretty good list.

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Keep your powder dry.

For a “shooter” gun, that’s probably fine. Otherwise, every seller is obsessed with a turn line. I’ve never met a seller, even a legit revolver person, that’s going to let you go through that with their gun - at least not unless you’re a bona fide buyer.

You might ask if the revolver’s magazines are factory or aftermarket.

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Uvidíme se později, aligátore.

Looks like a very complete inspection list, Moo Moo. When I go to a gun show or shop, I usually also take a small bore light with flexible neck, and a cloth tape measure (borrowed from my wife's sewing kit) for barrel lengths, etc. For nickel guns, you may also want to check whether or not the sights/trigger are blued- if nickel, indicates a re-nickel. As a buyer, you should also be ready to inspect any accessories- original box or presentation case, SAT, tools, paperwork, etc. Nice job!

I have been buy/sell/trading guns since I was 8. (I started with my dad.) I've had tables at OGCA shows and flea markets. The most important thing I've seen missing from buyers and sellers: MANORS. The actual first lesson dad gave me was: "Never put down a man's Wife, Dog or Gun!"

Ivan

Did see that Super Blackhawk with the enlarged cylinder.
The buyer got so excited with the trade he didn’t check the timing, Dry Firing, etc.
The enlarged part of the cylinder wouldn’t rotate pass the frame.
Caught on the bottom as I recall.
When I get a new to me Revolver I like to cock, lock, hammer drop on every cylinder.
Two handed, left hand shooter, right hand loose on cylinder.
I can do that as I explain the Meaning of Life to the Seller-Trader.

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NRA LIFE MEMBER

revolver_checkout.pdf - Google Drive

Don’t like to be wet blanket but if you need a list, your probably need to get somebody who knows what they are doing to go shopping with you.

I used to have a "reminder list" for gun shows. Bore light, 10X magnifier, feeler gauge. That usually let me discover most anything I needed to know.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

Yoke fit. Should be very clean, even seam.

I have a few additions, whether you are checking out a new or used revolver:

Bring a strong flashlight, small piece of paper, feeler gauges, and good magnifying glass. The piece of paper is used to reflect the flashlight at the forcing cone end when looking down the business end of the barrel.

Check the barrel - cylinder gap with a feeler gauge for each cylinder (ie: index each cylinder and measure). Optimum gap is .004", but manufacturer's tolerances often range from .004" - .008".

Check the lock up and end shake for each cylinder (1) when locked up - hammer cocked without trigger pulled and (2) when trigger pulled and held.

Check strain screw to see if it is tight. It makes trigger pulls appear lighter.

Check to make sure the firing pin extends out of the receiver.

Check front sight to make sure it is even on both sides, straight, and tight.

Check for uneven wear on hammer face if the revolver has a floating firing pin.

Use a bore gauge to check the cylinder alignment with the barrel for each cylinder.

Check the teeth on the ejector star for burrs or nicks.

Check the hole around the cylinder stop pin. If someone tries to eject the cylinder without pressing the release completely, it will leave a wear spot. This often occurs if the revolver is used in competition or run hard and fast fairly often.

Open the cylinder and spin the cylinder fast to try to see if the ejector rod is bent.

Look at the end of the ejector rod to see if there is wear around the front where it meets the detent pin (S&W revolvers with full underlugs).

Thanks for all the input. I really appreciate your assistance.

Just saw something on another thread; barrel and cylinder erosion.

This seems fairly compressive when inspecting a S&W Revolver.

I always use a flashlight to look at any firearm I am possibly buying...you can definitely see any imperfections that the naked eye misses...


The very 1st thing I look at are the revolver side plate screws and the sight screws...if they are "bugarred" as far as I am concerned I look no further as I do NOT want that revolver!

I bought one of these to replace a borelight when buying. Tells you way more about the bore and chambers. Theyre a 90 degree scope with pretty amazing picture clarity and quality.
I didnt buy it just for buying but also for both long and short term maintenance. It fits in a nice small zippered semi-hard case. They also come with different caliber mirrors, yes, actual glass mirrors and the ends of the cables where the LEDs are is threaded to fine tune focal length for perfect focus.
For the money theyre a pretty good deal and believe it or not the company is a very standup bunch. After two years of use I had a connection issue with the cable that connects to my phone so I contacted the cimpany and the owner immediately sent a reply with an apology as the opener, asked which one I owned and asked for my address, had a new one in about 3 days.
I actually have the nee replacement one they sent and I bought a 28" rigid model for rifle barrels.

That's a pretty good list, Moo Moo. It looks like you have put in a lot of effort to come up with all of those. Some good ideas from others as well. I'd like to go gun shopping with everyone on this thread. Nothing would get past us!

Bill, I'm not seeing the bore scope product you refer to. Did I miss something?

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protocalldesign.com

This brings up a major problem. Your article is great -- but many of the folks you are addressing don't have the first clue what a "cylinder" or a "forcing cone" or "chamber" or "ejector rod" is. Unfortunately, if you don't know what to look for in a used revolver it is because you may well lack the basic knowledge you should have before even considering the purchase.

Knowing I like firearms, people have asked me for advice on the subject for decades. My first response is always, "What do you know about revolvers (or semiautos, or whatever)? Usually, it calls for a trip to the range and some intense instruction.

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Pisgah

Revolvers do not have magazines...only pistols do...

Right. Revolvers have clips, not magazines!

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protocalldesign.com

Left out 1st aid kit and a mop. You would need them before you ever made it to purchase negotiations if you were looking at my revolver.

Thanks for your feedback. I am thinking about trying to add some pictures/images into the list to show the reader what the issue may be and where to look. EG. crack in barrel forcing cone - have a photograph of such an issue.

Thanks for all the feedback. I'm definitely no expert myself and the development of this list is just about teaching me as much as helping anyone else who reads it.

I recently stuffed up myself with my last purchase: Model 27-2 with 5" barrel. Fortunately I only paid about $480 USD for it so not all is lost. In the heat of a gunshow, it's not easy to remember to look at all these problem indicators with poor lighting, crowds around you, smells of food in the background, etc.

Possible Issues - 5" Model 27-2

• Case Colour – Trigger and Hammer

You wouldn't want any of mine then. Except for a 642, the first things to go on my 6XX's are the grips. I have the originals, sealed but I don't care for them. The next is the smudge job they call "case coloring". I remove it from the hammers and blacken the triggers. I think they come together better with the hammers matching the body and the triggers to the sights. They are jet black but image has light reflecting off the high point edge.

Attached Images

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