629 Classic vs. Classic DX

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TheTinMan

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I am thinking about getting a .44 Magnum revolver that I can shoot. I bought two older 44s this year but both are just too nice to take to the range. (I know - pity me 😝) My Dan Wesson 744V sports an 8” barrel. The single action trigger is great, and the gun is built like a tank. It also weighs half as much as a tank and the double action trigger pull is nothing to write home about.

The 629 Classic looks like a good choice, but I don’t know if it’s worth searching out a Classic DX. The interchangeable sight pak sounds neat, but frankly I like green fiber optic sights on target pistols. I like the look and balance a full underlug provides. I also like the idea of a 5” 44 Magnum since mine are all 6-1/2” or longer.

Am I on the right track looking at 629-3, -4, or -5? Any differences worth noting between those three? Are they all “Classics” or is that only the full underlug subset?

How much more should I expect to pay for a DX? Do the build quality and accuracy warrant a premium?

Thanks for your thoughts and Happy New Year!

Chip
 
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Personally, I think the difference in accuracy is more dependent on the shooter. I wouldn’t pay the difference. I have two late -3 Classics, a 5 and 6.5”. I prefer the balance of the 5”. Both my late -3s have the endurance package and the top strap is D&T for an optic.
 

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I have read somewhere that the -3E and -4 were the best if you do not buy new production. This is from memory, but I believe I am correct.
 
It is a lot easier to install that fiber optic front sight on a DX. 5 minute job instead of nervously drilling a hole for the pin without messing up the gun.

I favor 629-4 as the last of the no-mim guns and with the new style ratchets. I also think the mid 90’s quality was better than early/mid/late 80’s. Endurance package came in with the-2E. A -5 MIM gun would be ok too. After that we get the dreaded lock, which really doesn’t hurt on a shooter but does hurt on principle.
 
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I have a 629-6 Classic that I bought used. I've been pretty impressed with how it groups. Look at the picture of the target I included with my post in the BIG IRON thread in this subgroup.
 
CH4 said:
Personally, I think the difference in accuracy is more dependent on the shooter. I wouldn’t pay the difference. I have two late -3 Classics, a 5 and 6.5”. I prefer the balance of the 5”. Both my late -3s have the endurance package and the top strap is D&T for an optic.
Click to expand...

Agreed... Details on those Grips Please!
 
Sir,

If I read your post correctly, you're implying that the Classic model had an underlug and came with a 5" barrel, but the DX did not. Correct me if I'm mistaken on this. If that is what you meant to say, I can tell you that the DX models did come with the underlug, and were indeed available with 5" barrels.

If my memory serves me well here, the DXs were actually Classic models which were tested for accuracy and found slightly superior to the the rest.

NOW, IF when you refer to the Classic model you're referring to the 'retro' models made in very recent years, I know nothing about those and am willing to bow out of the discussion. What I have in mind by the term "classic" were those models made somewhere around the late 80s to 90s.

If I'm all wet, I'm sure someone more knowledgeable will correct me.

Best wishes in your search,
Andy
 
I have a Classic 5” and it has the replaceable front sight. It is noted above that the DX designation was decided after test firing Classics and I have also heard that and saw it in print when I made my purchase. My gun came from a wholesale distributor and recall a Classic vs DX conversation. I could have had either at that time but the front sight package and extra grips and target was just too much higher in price. IF you are an excellent shot and have the perfect load, then you may see a benefit in a DX but I really doubt it…
 
From my experience, there are a lot more 5 inch Classics running around than the 5 inch Classic DX. There were fewer 5 inch DXs made that other barrel lengths too.

I have a Classic -3 5 inch that is an extremely nice shooter. I doubt the difference in the regular and the DX is worth the extra expense of a DX.
 
Thanks! Your comments are helpful.

I was referring to the 629-3 through 629-5 “Classic” revolvers with a full barrel underlug, not the post-2000 recreations.

From posts above, do all of the 629-3 44s have the “endurance package”?

I’m going to have to do some research about the changed ratchets that came in the 629-4.

Finally, is there a consensus good -or- bad on the introduction of MIM parts with the 629-5? My personal belief is that there is nothing wrong with the process when used appropriately. However, I’m not sure that a hammer with the single action sear on that bottom falls into that category.
 
TheTinMan said:
Finally, is there a consensus good -or- bad on the introduction of MIM parts with the 629-5? My personal belief is that there is nothing wrong with the process when used appropriately. However, I’m not sure that a hammer with the single action sear on that bottom falls into that category.
Click to expand...

I've owned my 629-5 Classic for 22 years and never had any problems with the hammer sear engagement or any other MIM problem. The trigger in SA is one of the best of any Smith revolver I have owned in 35 years of shooting them. In regards to accuracy I don't have any regrets not buying a DX , the Classic may be the most accurate Smith centerfire revolver I've ever owned.
 
There was no Model 29-2E, the Endurance Package began with the Model 29-3E and Model 629-1E. The Model 29-5 and 629-3 introduced the longer cylinder stop notches and this was the last of the endurance upgrades to the N-frame 44 Magnums.

Do the endurance upgrades really matter? They do if you are going to shoot heavy 44 Magnum loads and there have been reports of even factory 44 Magnum loads causing the non-endurance package 44's to go out of time. I would treat the non-endurance 44's much like I would treat the older K-frame 357's. Shoot mostly 44 Special or reduced power 44 Magnums, occasionally shoot full power ammo.

As for accuracy, that is dependent upon the chambers, barrel, and alignment of the chambers to the barrel. Tight chambers throats and generous bore and groove dimensions is likely to create accuracy issues. These relationships are likely to vary from one example to another, but so many of us will never know the difference unless we are really, really good at shooting or use a Ransom Rest to test for accuracy.

MIM parts. When they came out, everyone wanted to poo-poo them because they were different, the were not machined out of a chunk of steel, then hardened and fitted. The truth is that MIM, like CNC machined, requires a lot less fitting and provides a more consistent trigger pull from one example to another. I would not turn down a quality made firearm just because it has MIM parts. My carry pistol is a S&W Model 6946 and it is filled with MIM parts and so far, no issues at all.

What it really come down to is what you can find for your needs and at a price that suits your wallet.
 
stansdds said:
There was no Model 29-2E, the Endurance Package began with the Model 29-3E and Model 629-1E. The Model 29-5 and 629-3 introduced the longer cylinder stop notches and this was the last of the endurance upgrades to the N-frame 44 Magnums.

Do the endurance upgrades really matter? They do if you are going to shoot heavy 44 Magnum loads and there have been reports of even factory 44 Magnum loads causing the non-endurance package 44's to go out of time. I would treat the non-endurance 44's much like I would treat the older K-frame 357's. Shoot mostly 44 Special or reduced power 44 Magnums, occasionally shoot full power ammo.

As for accuracy, that is dependent upon the chambers, barrel, and alignment of the chambers to the barrel. Tight chambers throats and generous bore and groove dimensions is likely to create accuracy issues. These relationships are likely to vary from one example to another, but so many of us will never know the difference unless we are really, really good at shooting or use a Ransom Rest to test for accuracy.

MIM parts. When they came out, everyone wanted to poo-poo them because they were different, the were not machined out of a chunk of steel, then hardened and fitted. The truth is that MIM, like CNC machined, requires a lot less fitting and provides a more consistent trigger pull from one example to another. I would not turn down a quality made firearm just because it has MIM parts. My carry pistol is a S&W Model 6946 and it is filled with MIM parts and so far, no issues at all.

What it really come down to is what you can find for your needs and at a price that suits your wallet.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the refresher course on the endurance upgrades! Your perspective on MIM parts also is helpful.

Chip
 
I would buy something that's already drilled and tapped for an optic. I think that started with -4 or possibly -3. A red dot sight on an N frame pegs the fun factor meter. I put one one a 625 JM and it became my favorite revolver to shoot.

I think the -4 was the last to be built without MIM, if that matters.
 
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LostintheOzone said:
I would buy something that's already drilled and tapped for an optic. I think that started with -4 or possibly -3. A red dot sight on an N frame pegs the fun factor meter. I put one one a 625 JM and it became my favorite revolver to shoot.

I think the -4 was the last to be built without MIM, if that matters.
Click to expand...

My -3 is D&T
 
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