Help with 329PD Warranty Decision

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Scooter1942

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Last month I picked up a pretty clean 329PD 44Mag, 2005 vintage. The revolver is most definitely a handful and recoil is snappy to say the least. But during my only shooting session I learned that about 10% of my rounds failed to fire due to light primer strikes. Also, every spent cartridge (even 44 special) had what appeared to be tooling marks. Full power 44 Mag loads resulted in sticky extraction and Underwood loads required a dowel and hammer to tap out.

I called S&W and they issued an RMA for me to return it under warranty. The short hammer/light primer strikes was a known issue on early guns and sticky extraction can be an issue for titanium cylinders. I explained the issues and offered/suggested that IF they determined the titanium cylinder was out of spec or required replacing that I would be ok with them replacing with a stainless cylinder. I figured that would be a cheaper replacement from a materials standpoint, and I'd appreciate the extra weight and easier cleaning regimen.

Yesterday, I received a Sales Quote from S&W with a $240 estimate to make changes. Seems they decided this wasn't a warranty issue. They acknowledged the firing pin but want to charge $124.65 for a stainless cylinder and $90 for Performance Center labor. There was no mention of whether the titanium cylinder needed to be replaced. When I called today, they suggested that it wasn't a warranty repair because I wasn't the original owner and that they're not responsible for wear and tear.

So now I have to decide whether I want to put an additional $240 into this gun in order to get it working properly and go with a stainless cylinder, or just move on. Or, do I get the firing pin replaced and either go back to the existing ti cylinder or a replacement one (if they deem that the tooling marks are causing the sticky extraction)?
 
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I have a 329PD and I'm pretty sure it will never see a 44 full power magnum load. I can't imagine shooting those for fun in that gun. But if I did load them it would be because I was carrying it on a trip where encountering bears was a possibility, and I'll probably never do that again either.

I would have them check the firing pin/springs issue, replace if necessary, and return it with the original cylinder. Good luck.

Jeff
SWCA #1457
 
I vote for the steel cylinder just on grounds of common sense, or my version of it. Years ago I bought a 296 that was flat-out painful to shoot. I put a steel cylinder in it and reduced the recoil sting enough to make it tolerable.

If you got the gun at a good price in the first place, then the factory work should just put you in the fair price range (or maybe at the top of it) for the functioning gun that you hoped you were getting in the first place. If you paid a fair price for the gun and the repairs will push you into the theoretical red on the deal, that option may still be worth it if you really like the gun and expect to keep it for years and years.

I don't think there is a universal right answer to the question you pose. Calculate the costs and the benefits to you, and see what feels right.
 
DCWilson said:
I vote for the steel cylinder just on grounds of common sense, or my version of it. Years ago I bought a 296 that was flat-out painful to shoot. I put a steel cylinder in it and reduced the recoil sting enough to make it tolerable.

If you got the gun at a good price in the first place, then the factory work should just put you in the fair price range (or maybe at the top of it) for the functioning gun that you hoped you were getting in the first place. If you paid a fair price for the gun and the repairs will push you into the theoretical red on the deal, that option may still be worth it if you really like the gun and expect to keep it for years and years.

I don't think there is a universal right answer to the question you pose. Calculate the costs and the benefits to you, and see what feels right.
Click to expand...

Seems like used ones go for $900-$1100. I'd be in it for just a few bucks over $1k after modifications. Some people would see it as a Performance Center upgrade, while others would see it as unoriginal... I'd have to find the right buyer to break even.
 
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Since it is already in their hands, I would let them resolve your light strike issue and have the revolver returned. Now it is reliable to fire and as 22hipower mentions you have a great 44 Special and stuffed with Magnums or Underwood it is a viable bear gun when necessary (I kind of doubt that a speedy reload is a concern if a bear is chasing you)

New and used 629 cylinders are plentiful around the Internet. They appear to average right around what S&W is asking for the part. You could always buy one later on and have your favorite gunsmith fit it for you, probably for less that the $90 quoted. You would still have the original Ti cylinder to supply with the firearm if you choose to part with it down the road

While less common, there are also Titanium 329 cylinders out there as well as the black coated steel cylinders from the 329 Night Guard series. These are a second thought

On a final thought...You might call Smith & Wesson again and this time ask for a Supervisor. Be pleasant, not argumentative. You could plead the case that while you are the second owner of the firearm, clearly...tooling marks in the cylinder is not a wear and tear issue. There is no doubt that it left the Factory that way. Just because the previous owner never fired Magnums in it to realize the flaw in Manufacturing, their error still exists
 
I sold my 329 as it had such a snappy kick and I wanted to shoot it a little more than once in a blue moon. I'd say let S&W swap out the cylinder etc. as it's already there and in their queue. I hope it takes less time than the 649 I sent back 5 months ago..
 
colt_saa said:
While less common, there are also Titanium 329 cylinders out there as well as the black coated steel cylinders from the 329 Night Guard series. These are a second thought

On a final thought...You might call Smith & Wesson again and this time ask for a Supervisor. Be pleasant, not argumentative. You could plead the case that while you are the second owner of the firearm, clearly...tooling marks in the cylinder is not a wear and tear issue. There is no doubt that it left the Factory that way. Just because the previous owner never fired Magnums in it to realize the flaw in Manufacturing, their error still exists
Click to expand...

Since Night Guards are just about impossible to find, I would think that a 329 Night Guard cylinder would be like a hen's tooth...
 
Quick update: I spoke with S&W again today to get some clarification. The guy I spoke with was definitely more helpful and went and found the gun, spoke with the gunsmith and developed some options. While none of them fall within "warranty" work, here's what they told me my options are:

1. Decline service and they'll send it back as is.

2. Pay $90 labor plus shipping and they'll fix light strike & cylinder extraction issue with existing titanium cylinder.

3. Pay $225 plus shipping and they'll fix light strike, fix titanium cylinder and fit stainless steel cylinder...sending both cylinders back with the gun.


I'm leaning towards having them install the stainless cylinder. Given that they'll address the issue with the titanium cylinder AND return it with the revolver so that I have both, I don't think I'd find myself upside down if I were to sell it. Thoughts?
 
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It's also possible that the strain screw is worn or backed out (from recoil or by the previous owner as a "five-minute trigger job"). Strain screws are supposed to be dome-shaped, but after much shooting the dome wears, resulting in an angled flat which reduces pressure on the base of the mainspring.
 
I'd go the third choice and get exactly what you want...

If you haven't priced what a good revolver Smith gets these days for labor costs you might be shocked... That and you'll probably have to pay for shipping and wait to find a cylinder...

Bob
 
Let us know

Let us know what you decide. I am with you going ahead and getting what you want. You are going to love shooting that steel cylinder and you will love carrying that titanium one. If you sell it for 200 dollars less than you have in it, you'll have gotten far more than 200 bucks of fun out of it. I do like that "performance center upgrade" idea when you resell.
 
The reason I bought a 329pd was to have a light weight 44 mag to carry. So the ti cylinder is a plus for me. I don't know why someone would want one for range use. I would get the firing pin fixed so it was reliable. I am guessing changing the cylinder would lower it's resale value
 
Well, I chose to go with the "Performance Center" upgrade...as I'm calling it. New springs and firing pin, the original titanium cylinder will be fixed for the sticky extraction issue, a new stainless cylinder will be fitted to the frame, timed, and test fired. The freshened up revolver with both cylinders will be back in my hands within two weeks...all for $240 shipped. I think I can live with that. I'll likely keep the stainless cylinder in it and if I ever feel the need to shave 4oz and can easily swap to the titanium cylinder. And, I suspect I've increased resale value because a new buyer (if I sell it someday) will have both options.

I'll post pics when it arrives. Thanks for the feedback.
 
Now I have a Ss cylinder I can keep nice & shiny

Scooter1942 said:
Well, I chose to go with the "Performance Center" upgrade...as I'm calling it.
Click to expand...

Good choice, it's the logical one.

I replaced the Ti cylinder on mine before I even fired it the first time as I had a fluted Ss cylinder I removed from my 629-6 Classic & replaced it with an unfluted Ss cylinder that I bought from MidwayUSA ($110) that I liked.

For anyone else thinking of doing it, the swap isn't hard as long as you reuse the extractor & rod assembly from the Ti cylinder in the new Ss cylinder.

This is because the Ti cylinders extractor ratchets have already been cut to work with your revolver while the new Ss cylinder's have not.

The other potential issue would be whether the new Ss assembly had the proper endshake when installed in your revolver.

The endshake was good on mine after the swap so nothing else needed to be done.

If the endshake is too much it's easily fixed with spacer/bearings that can be commonly purchased for minimal $$.

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Ss cylinder weight
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Ti cylinder weight
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Some cushie grips will make all the difference in the world with heavy loads. :)
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I found one at an LGS used, it's on layaway... a 329 Nightguard 2.5" and still have a few more payments to make till I get to shoot it. I know to keep it mild, not wild on the loads.
 
JonE406 said:
I found one at an LGS used, it's on layaway... a 329 Nightguard 2.5" and still have a few more payments to make till I get to shoot it. I know to keep it mild, not wild on the loads.
Click to expand...


Good for you. I curse myself for wondering "What's the point of the Night Guard line?" when they were in production. As a California resident, my options to get one now are constrained, though not completely blocked.
 
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