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S&W Revolvers: 1980 to the Present All NON-PINNED Barrels, the L-Frames, and the New Era Revolvers


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Old 02-10-2024, 03:51 PM
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Default problems with NEW 617

Shoots just fine! Speedbeez speed loaders are slick as goose grease!
The durn thing just won't extract and eject fired cases! So far only some cheap, aged, left over Winchester 333 box junk fires and ejects with out having to beat on the rod!

No high speed ammo I've tried thus far ejects except the stuff mentioned above! I think I fired a left over box of Eley Club with no problems but CCI Blazer, Aguila Super Extra (1100 fps) and Super Extra High Velocity (1200 fps), S&B High Velocity all stick and have to beaten out of the cylinder!

Causes?
Cures? Suggestions?
Help needed!
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Old 02-10-2024, 04:00 PM
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This has been going on for decades. The chambers are undersized. Get a standard .22 Long Rifle Finishing reamer from Manson Reamers and recut them to what they should have been to start with. There are threads about this in the gunsmith section if you want to do some research.
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Old 02-10-2024, 04:55 PM
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YES! What he ^^^^^^ said. WHY S&W continues to make their 22RF chambers so tight is unknown to me. After properly reaming out the Chambers on my own 22's no accuracy was lost and so I see no downside except you might go through ammo faster as the empties pop out easily - lol.
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Old 02-10-2024, 05:09 PM
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What equipment besides the reamer is need to do the job? How is the depth of the ream job controlled?
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Old 02-10-2024, 05:25 PM
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That is totally unacceptable that he spent a bunch of money on a new revolver, and then has to fix it.

I sent my 617 back 3 times, and now the barrel is not indexed correctly. That gun live at my girlfriend’s house. I ordered a Colt.
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Old 02-10-2024, 05:38 PM
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What equipment besides the reamer is need to do the job? How is the depth of the ream job controlled?
You need a tap handle to turn the reamer by hand, and some cutting oil. There is a shoulder on the reamer. You stop cutting when the shoulder touches the original seat for the rim of the brass. Ream the chambers with the extractor in place, as it is part of the chamber.
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Old 02-10-2024, 05:56 PM
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There is a shoulder on the reamer. You stop cutting when the shoulder touches the original seat for the rim of the brass.
Is the shoulder just a stop that prevents you from going deeper, or will it keep cutting until you stop? Thanks.
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Old 02-10-2024, 06:13 PM
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Thanks to everyone for the info and help!
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Old 02-10-2024, 06:18 PM
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Be sure to place an empty casing or two in the idle chambers when using the reamer. This keeps the extractor lined up properly while you are reaming.

Use plenty of cutting oil, get some cutting oil specifically designed for this purpose, and, be sure to rinse the reamer often to keep it free of metal chips. As stated above use caution not to touch the bottom of the chamber recess with the tool. (photo)


"cylinder - finish reamer" Brownells #513-051-220 (Manson # F22LRC)









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Old 02-10-2024, 06:25 PM
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Is the shoulder just a stop that prevents you from going deeper, or will it keep cutting until you stop? Thanks.
It will keep cutting deeper if you keep pushing on it. I forgot to mention "cylinder" finish reamer. Armorer951 had my back. Thanks!
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Old 02-10-2024, 07:10 PM
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Armorer951 Thanks for the photos and info! I just might decide to put an empty case in each chamber to help keep track of which of ten I've done! If I decide to do it myself!

Thanks again to all for the help!
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Old 02-10-2024, 08:34 PM
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Good lessons here. My 617 is stock, new 2019. Never had those problems, but have read about them before. It chambers, shoots and ejects every kind of 22 I stick in it. But Remingtons, all types, fouled it to no ejection after 50-70 rounds. Shot all the Remingtons, and never buying any again.
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Old 02-10-2024, 09:03 PM
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I have 2 pretty new M-617, 4 and 6 inch, the ammo will fit pretty tight in the cylinders, I tried around 10 types of ammo, CCI will fit tight, Federal AutoMatch, or Champion fits right in, but after shooting around 200 rounds, then cleaning the chambers really well with the round bronze brush, 3-4 times to the range, they fit and ejected right out, that's just on mine, you might try that first, that will not cost you anything, you need to get it broke in anyway, I just got my 6 inch back from Smith yesterday, 2nd trip in, the 2nd gunsmith must be a really good one, it had 5 problems, took it to the range yesterday, everything is great now, it's usually around 37, the high temp was 66 yesterday.. good luck with your New M617..
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Old 02-10-2024, 09:06 PM
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Default 617 solution

I had the same problems with a pair of 617's. Finally sent them back to S&W, they fixed them and returned to a happy owner. They are under reamed and now amount of changing ammo with fix them.
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Old 02-10-2024, 11:44 PM
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I had same problem with my 63-in three holes, I polished them with some very fine abrasive powder and oil on cloth cleaning jag with a drill..a little goes a long way. Worked great. One comment I picked up while researching, if you ream-do not turn the reamer backwards in the cut..it will jam on debris and damage things. Ream by hand also!!
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Old 02-11-2024, 02:27 AM
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There is an excellent cutting fluid called "Tap Magic" which is what I use for tapping and reaming - it works very well. Make sure you get the version for steel and not the one meant for aluminum!

Do not skimp on the Tap Magic and add some several times while reaming each cylinder. When finished with each individual charge hole (cylinder hole) clean off the reamer before using it for the next hole. If you do not have a small tap handle, I believe Manson and/or Brownell's sells one for use with the reamer. When doing this, I personally use empties in every hole except the one being reamed at the time. Mark the completed holes with a piece of masking tape or grease pencil in case you get distracted. I also remove the cylinder assembly from the revolver's frame which makes it much easier to work on. Just as an aside, I always remove the cylinder from the frame when I clean it after a Range session.

BTW, all this sounds way more complicated than it really is. The entire job takes about 1/2 hour, maybe slightly longer if you have more than 6 holes. After completing all the holes (6 in my case) blow out the cylinder holes with compressed air (or canned air if you have don't have an air compressor) and clean thoroughly when done. After cleaning, leave a light film of gun oil with a clean patch behind. Your shooting experience should now be a whole lot more fun!
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Old 02-12-2024, 01:04 PM
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Default New 617 problems

I purchased a new 617 with 4" barrel. Took it to the range and after 40 rounds it locked up. Had to use a tool to force the spent casings out of the cylinder. Sent back to S&W, where the estimated repair time is 3-4 weeks. Not very impressed with S&W QA.
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Old 02-25-2024, 07:10 AM
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learned alot of information here. just not sure i want to talke this myself i have 10 thumbs and usually things like this intimidate me
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Old 02-25-2024, 10:49 AM
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learned alot of information here. just not sure i want to talke this myself i have 10 thumbs and usually things like this intimidate me
If you can turn a screwdriver you can operate a reamer. Donít be intimidated itís really not that difficult. It helps to have a bench vise with padded jaws, something no homeowner should be without anyway! 😀 Iíve done no less than a dozen S&W .22 revolver cylinders without a hitch.
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Old 02-25-2024, 11:27 AM
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-do not turn the reamer backwards in the cut..
^^^ What he said.

There is a thread about this. Do a search. I bought the reamer and did one of my two S&W 22's. My other one is a safe queen and I haven't got around to doing it yet. It is no big deal, but it is necessary if you want to enjoy shooting your gun.

Instead of a vice I used two Harbor Freight Handscrew Wood Clamps. One to hold the cylinder, and the second one to hold the first one to the bench.
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Old 02-25-2024, 11:51 AM
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learned alot of information here. just not sure i want to talke this myself i have 10 thumbs and usually things like this intimidate me
There is absolutely No shame in farming out a job like this to a professional ...

My motto is ... "A Wise Man Knows His Limitations ! "

I've learned the hard way ... I'm No Gunsmith !

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Old 02-25-2024, 01:40 PM
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Thought this old thread might help some folks who are on the fence about reaming their 22 cylinders: .22 chamber reaming report

It really isn't that difficult.

The root cause of this issue continues to be S&W using either: 1) undersized cylinder finishing reamers, or 2) "overusing" their tooling, until it is worn down to the point where it is leaving the cylinders undersized.

I've run my finish reamer through "several" S&W 22's, in some cases very little material was removed, in some cases a LOT. I attribute the instances where I had to remove a lot of material to S&W using over-worn tooling, until someone presents me with a more probable theory.

BTW, it's been stated by others, but it bears repeating. Finish-reaming a .22 cylinder to SAAMI specs does *not* degrade accuracy. The finish reamer pilot does *NOT* remove any material from the chamber mouths. Whatever your chamber mouth dimensions were before the reaming will be identical afterward.

Lou
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Old 02-25-2024, 05:27 PM
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thank you lou
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