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S&W Revolvers: 1980 to the Present All NON-PINNED Barrels, the L-Frames, and the New Era Revolvers


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Old 02-10-2024, 07:49 PM
Skully128 Skully128 is offline
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Default Where to go for trigger jobs?

I have a few s&w revolvers (686 plus, 60, etc) and I was wondering if there was any known reputable buisness that do trigger work (more smooth and preferable a trigger pull in double action around 9 pounds to 11?). Would it be better to do it to a new production s&w over one of my older ones or does it not matter? Mainly considering it on a snub j frame or considering buying one that already has work done or new for the purpose of concealed carry. I never had a issue with the triggers but a few of my friends dispised the trigger on them and after having a rifle with trigger work that made it so much easier to hit accurate, I wanted to do that to a backup carry J frame. I'm mainly looking for what would it cost roughly as I've only found 2 sites that seem to offer it and a load of horror stories of people not replacing the spring but clipping them or something along those lines. Thanks.
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Old 02-10-2024, 08:16 PM
326MOD10 326MOD10 is offline
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I had a Combat Action Package performed on two revolvers, a 19 and a 64, by Smith and Wesson.

Part of that is a work over of the action and both came back very nice and very smooth. Of course i am talking about 10-12 years ago or a little more.

I also purchased a PC442 and the trigger on it was excellent out of the box as well. And it only got better with use.

If it is a newer J Frame many times the DA pull smooths out greatly with time and use. Maybe consider some time with Snap Caps dry firing and see if that helps it get smoother.

Good luck.
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Old 02-10-2024, 08:20 PM
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I would second the Factory Combat Revolver Package but I also had my revolver worked on over 15 years ago so can’t speak to current work. But it includes bead blasting the gun which might not be your cup of tea. They offer a trigger job separately. Here is a link.

https://www.smith-wesson.com/custome...on-gunsmithing
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Old 02-10-2024, 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Skully128 View Post
I have a few s&w revolvers (686 plus, 60, etc) and I was wondering if there was any known reputable buisness that do trigger work (more smooth and preferable a trigger pull in double action around 9 pounds to 11?). Would it be better to do it to a new production s&w over one of my older ones or does it not matter? Mainly considering it on a snub j frame or considering buying one that already has work done or new for the purpose of concealed carry. I never had a issue with the triggers but a few of my friends dispised the trigger on them and after having a rifle with trigger work that made it so much easier to hit accurate, I wanted to do that to a backup carry J frame. I'm mainly looking for what would it cost roughly as I've only found 2 sites that seem to offer it and a load of horror stories of people not replacing the spring but clipping them or something along those lines. Thanks.
TK Custom will do excellent work and guarantee their work.
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Old 02-10-2024, 09:37 PM
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I am likely going to send my 66 and 19 snubs into S&W for an action job.
As they still offer it, I am thinking they must have at least an employee or two remaining who knows how to fluff up a revolver, ha!
I sold off a 66 snub that had been back to S&W for action job and it was fantastic!
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Old 02-10-2024, 09:54 PM
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I am likely going to send my 66 and 19 snubs into S&W for an action job.
As they still offer it, I am thinking they must have at least an employee or two remaining who knows how to fluff up a revolver, ha!
I sold off a 66 snub that had been back to S&W for action job and it was fantastic!
Good luck; I had to send a new, 442 Pro Series back to Smith for action "catching." Got it back and still needed an action job.
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Old 02-10-2024, 10:15 PM
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So it seems like TK customs for ccw package for snubs and master revolver package from s&w for something like the 686? Or any other recommendations on where?
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Old 02-10-2024, 11:14 PM
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TK Custom has done action work on several of my Smiths: 442, 610, 686, PC1911 and others; Every job was top notch.
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Old 02-10-2024, 11:34 PM
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May take a look at Clark Custom in Louisiana.


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Old 02-10-2024, 11:42 PM
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Old 02-11-2024, 03:47 AM
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Has anyone done both? I think for a snub I'll do tk customs. Though my grandfathers 686-4 plus he gave me I am not sure if the basic at tk customs would be better or the s&w combat revolver package for that. Does anyone with experience I
With both have thoughts? Also I know I wouldn't be doing this for a while because A I'm moving to a more gun friendly state soon and B ill probably buy another gun (or maybe a new snub to get trigger work done to not wear out a old snub)
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Old 02-11-2024, 09:25 AM
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May take a look at Clark Custom in Louisiana.


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Old 02-11-2024, 09:30 AM
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I can't speak for TK Customs action work but I've had them cut a few cylinders for me for moonclips. The turnaround was not much more then a week and the work was top-notch.

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Old 02-11-2024, 09:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skully128 View Post
I have a few s&w revolvers (686 plus, 60, etc) and I was wondering if there was any known reputable buisness that do trigger work (more smooth and preferable a trigger pull in double action around 9 pounds to 11?). Would it be better to do it to a new production s&w over one of my older ones or does it not matter? Mainly considering it on a snub j frame or considering buying one that already has work done or new for the purpose of concealed carry. I never had a issue with the triggers but a few of my friends dispised the trigger on them and after having a rifle with trigger work that made it so much easier to hit accurate, I wanted to do that to a backup carry J frame. I'm mainly looking for what would it cost roughly as I've only found 2 sites that seem to offer it and a load of horror stories of people not replacing the spring but clipping them or something along those lines. Thanks.
My wife buys her own handguns and last years she brought home a S&W EDC kit that had a solid cylinder 357mag 360 J snubby in it . 14.7oz version airweight . That little revolver looked great , well finished , nice cylinder gap od 7ths but had a awful trigger with a 6.5lb SA pull and over 13lb pull I ended up using an old fish scale on to try get close on the DA pull .

I am a long time user of Apex Tactical kits for m&p pistols after dealing with "trigger finger " surgery on my index and middle finger but fingers strength is less but at least I have a smooth trigger pull again . I called apex an after a short talk with them about there J frame kit I bought one .

Installing the kit was not a problem and with that done my wife and I shot some of my lite 357mag reloads with some wolf small rifle primers to be sure it fired them reliably and it has been for 200 rounds so far . Nether of use carry revolvers but nice to have a small revolver my wife now likes .

With the Apex J frame kit installed at home using a Lyman digital scale the DA trigger pull is now at 7lb 14oz to 8lb 3oz . The wider variation is do to me attempting to hold it stead while pulling the thru the DA trigger stroke . The SA pull is 2lb.01 oz to 2lb 2oz . That should please anyone and at a cost of 30 bucks plus shipping and a less than an hour's time.

I did end up changing grips to a hogue over rubber mono grip as my wife hated the nice wood grip on it. Nice to have the back strap covered for warmer carry ammo too.

Apex Tactical J frame kit linked below -
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Old 02-11-2024, 09:58 AM
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Where are you located ?
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Old 02-11-2024, 11:25 AM
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Default Try doing it yourself

Skully,

It is very easy to greatly improve the double action trigger pull on an S&W revolver.

On any non-j Frame, simply replacing the mainspring with a reduced power spring will accomplish the most noticeable results, is easy to do, and is inexpensive. You can get them online from a number of sources.

The most important thing is to use properly fitting screw drivers to get the side plate off. There are plenty of videos on the web that show you how. You can do more, like polish the contact points on the hammer, trigger, and rebound assembly, but that requires a bit more fiddly disassembly, and dry firing several hundred times will often take care of that.

On a j frame, replacing the coiled mainspring works well in reducing double action trigger pull, but can lead to reliability issues. I have done many for my range guns, but would not do it for any of my carry guns. Replacing the rebound spring and polishing the contact points (or a lot of dry firing) will get you some noticeable gains but that will require some additional disassembly. Not hard, but the first couple times always seem hard. Again, lots of videos out there.

As someone who is not particularly mechanically inclined but a dedicated revolver shooter, I learned how to do it many years ago. I can do one now in less than half an hour with very good results.

You can too.

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Old 02-11-2024, 12:21 PM
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I realize that this being primarily a S&W forum, that the original title implied “Where to go for trigger jobs (on S&W)”. So what I have to add is a bit off topic. But first, I have about a dozen S&Ws, 645, 4506, 4566, M41, N,L,K frames.
The 645 could use a little help. But I’ve never even considered any action work on any of the rest. They all still have the factory springs in them. Nobody does actions better than Smith.

Now, off topic, a bit: Cajun Gun Works. They do CZs. I can’t say enough good about that crew. You want an all steel combat ready 9mm with the single action trigger that is every bit as good as the one on your Model 41, get a CZ 75B and send it and $475 to CGW. The single action pull on mine is 2.5 pounds, and after you take up the slack inherent in most semi auto pistol designs. You will not feel that trigger move. It just goes off. DA is just under 7 pounds.

If you know a gunsmith looking for work, encourage Him to learn to do a single action trigger job on the new Colt Snakes. That alone will earn a good living, for the time being at least.
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Old 02-11-2024, 12:47 PM
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I have gone completely down the rabbit hole in the past week, tooling up to do my own action jobs on my revolvers. I have a few that I just do not like the look and feel of the trigger engagement surfaces, even after doing spring kit conversions.

I have purchased the Power Custom Series 1 stoning fixture, both adapters for J, K, L, and N frames, Norton India stone blocks in various grits, very fine grit whetstones, and Jerry Kuhnhausen's 5th edition S&W shop manual.

I am really looking forward to working on my revolvers over the next month or two as I have time.

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Old 02-11-2024, 01:18 PM
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I advocate for people learning to do basic ork on their own revolvers, simply because good revolver smiths are a dying breed and hard to find and it will only get worse.

I agree with replacing the rebound spring and making sure there are no high spots on frame or side plate rubbing on the slide, or the hammer and trigger where they mate to the stud bosses on the frame and side plate. Also check the sides of the hammer for drag marks from rubbing on either the frame or side plate, a thin shim on placed on the stud on which ever side is dragging will alleviate that. You need to have .001-.002 endshake and at least .004 barrel to cylinder gap and no burrs on yoke tube. IF there is a hitch in the trigger right as it locks up that is cause by a long tooth on the ratchet causing the hand to bind against the side off the frame slot as it forces its way past the tooth. Usually a bunch of dry firing will wear the tooth so it quits. Once it wears down enough to smooth out, the wear slows way down as the pressure against the tooth goes away. IF there is a hitch in the beginning of the DA trigger pull that is the length of the DA sear. I wouldn't recommend most people mess with that unless they are willing to replace the DA sear if they mess up. I have never found the need to mess with the sears on trigger and hammer. Another thing I have seen on new revolvers is burrs on the top face of those teeth. Those should be taken off with a very fine file. DO NOT remove metal from the round portion that surrounds the center pin as that is what sets your cylinders head space. It needs to be smooth though. That and a straight ejector rod and your good to go.

I have also messed with mainsprings both coil and flat, but it is always best to error way on the side of reliable over light. Smooth is far and away more important than light. You better off working one of those grip exercising deals then chasing the lightest trigger possible.

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Old 02-11-2024, 01:21 PM
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I’ve replaced the springs in my J frame and Taurus revolvers myself. This, and dry firing with snap caps, have given good results. It’s not custom shop smooth but I wouldn’t want that on a carry gun anyway.
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Old 02-11-2024, 01:29 PM
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Accurate Plating & Weaponry (Bob Coogan) in Newville, AL, some of the finest pistol & revolver work out there!

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Old 02-11-2024, 03:43 PM
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Well, having gone through all this, I saw only a couple 2-3 that wouldn't take a lot of time away from your gun---and likely cost you more than a little bit of money.

Here's what I did with a certified BEATER---4" M&P my father-in-law bought new in 1920, and carried daily in the hip pocket of his overalls for a mere 60-65 years. Oh!---and it had a 22 lb. double action trigger pull---thanks to a rebound slide spring apparently selected by a Bubba somewhere along the line based solely on the fact it would fit in the hole.

Given the desire to develop my point and shoot skills, and not even remotely inclined to use any of the guns in my collection, I got this relic out and headed for Brownells' web site. I'd had a Master Grade conversion done by Wilson Combat some years ago---for MEGA dollars, and figured any do-it-yourself stuff they might have would for sure be worthwhile.

As luck would have it, I stumbled upon a "spring kit" from Jerry Miculek before I came upon anything from Wilson---and a little voice said, "You know, if ANYBODY knows how to make a S&W better, that right there is what you're after!!"

So after maybe $20 combined with a few moments time, I'd stuffed this kit into my beater---and NOTHING would move! This kit comes with instructions, but after being in and out of some 200+ S&W revolvers in the past 60+ years, there's certainly no need to bother with instructions---or is there?

After I'd sat and stared for a bit, I decided it wouldn't hurt to see what he had to say. That was a wise move! Everything did what it was supposed to do the second time around-------and it did it just as slick as snot---with a 7 lb. D.A. trigger pull.

As an aside worth noting, Miculek's kit allows you to select whatever trigger pull you want---with the proviso you don't go below 7 lbs., lest your gun won't go bang---and he recommends the use of Federal ammo/primers at that level. ALL that good stuff is IN THE INSTRUCTIONS----READ 'EM!! (I didn't have any Federal---and WW works too.)

Now, there was mention of a J frame up above. I don't know who all might do kits for a J frame, but if either Miculek or Wilson has them, you could do worse. And if you do, do worse, don't sweat the small stuff! These kits are dirt cheap, so try, try again---with somebody else's.

Now I'm not knocking anybody's mega-buck "action job", but I'm hard pressed to imagine anything better/smoother/slicker than this old relic with a couple of new springs in it!

Ralph Tremaine

And a belated word or six or eight about lubrication: There are exactly three things worth talking about that move under the sideplate---trigger/hammer/rebound slide. The other thing that moves is the cylinder. It revolves about an axle---for lack of a better word.

ONE drop of a light oil on each of the trigger and hammer stud is it. A wee bit of GOOD grease smeared under and in back of the rebound slide is it.

The cylinder bore that revolves about the yoke axle is smooth---as is the yoke axle. No lubrication is required---nor desired----unless you wish to retain each and every bit of crud that finds its way in there.

Last edited by rct269; 02-11-2024 at 05:34 PM.
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Old 02-11-2024, 03:58 PM
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Nelson ford highly recommended
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Old 02-11-2024, 04:26 PM
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I go to the bench in my gun room. I've been working on them for nearly 50 years.
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Old 02-11-2024, 04:29 PM
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With maybe a lighter return spring that will still always snap the trigger back, just going though a couple of thousand dry fires will do wonders, both for you action AND your trigger finger.
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Old 02-11-2024, 04:41 PM
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I second that. He has done 3 of my guns and they all have a very smooth action and light pull both single and double action. No FTF.
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Old 02-11-2024, 08:38 PM
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I agree with replacing the rebound spring…making sure there are no high spots on frame or side plate rubbing …You need to have .001-.002 endshake and at least .004 barrel to cylinder gap and no burrs on yoke tube. …
I have also messed with mainsprings both coil and flat, but it is always best to error way on the side of reliable over light. Smooth is far and away more important than light. You better off working one of those grip exercising deals then chasing the lightest trigger possible.

I agree with what Jim has to say about cleaning burrs, high spots, flat surfaces, adjusting the rebound spring, etc.

I prefer to use factory mainsprings springs even in my competition revolvers but especially in my carry revolvers. I need a smooth pull, not necessarily the lightest pull. They are not the same. Lightening the mainspring is not an action job any more than backing off the strain screw is an action job.

Once you experience a smooth pull, you won’t worry about how light it is.

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Old 02-11-2024, 09:57 PM
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About two years ago I purchased a Model 18 .22 LR revolver. There was a point in the trigger press where it seemed to "drag" for lack of a better word. I cleaned/lubed the action to no avail. I shot it extensively but could not eliminate the ""drag".

I contacted Clark Custom Custom Guns. Very nice persons to deal with. Sent it off and received it back in about three weeks. The action was exceptionally smooth. Cost was reasonable. I'm very pleased with them and will consider them should I have any further needs.

Jm2c.

JPJ
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Old 02-12-2024, 02:02 AM
Skully128 Skully128 is offline
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I advocate for people learning to do basic ork on their own revolvers, simply because good revolver smiths are a dying breed and hard to find and it will only get worse.

I agree with replacing the rebound spring and making sure there are no high spots on frame or side plate rubbing on the slide, or the hammer and trigger where they mate to the stud bosses on the frame and side plate. Also check the sides of the hammer for drag marks from rubbing on either the frame or side plate, a thin shim on placed on the stud on which ever side is dragging will alleviate that. You need to have .001-.002 endshake and at least .004 barrel to cylinder gap and no burrs on yoke tube. IF there is a hitch in the trigger right as it locks up that is cause by a long tooth on the ratchet causing the hand to bind against the side off the frame slot as it forces its way past the tooth. Usually a bunch of dry firing will wear the tooth so it quits. Once it wears down enough to smooth out, the wear slows way down as the pressure against the tooth goes away. IF there is a hitch in the beginning of the DA trigger pull that is the length of the DA sear. I wouldn't recommend most people mess with that unless they are willing to replace the DA sear if they mess up. I have never found the need to mess with the sears on trigger and hammer. Another thing I have seen on new revolvers is burrs on the top face of those teeth. Those should be taken off with a very fine file. DO NOT remove metal from the round portion that surrounds the center pin as that is what sets your cylinders head space. It needs to be smooth though. That and a straight ejector rod and your good to go.

I have also messed with mainsprings both coil and flat, but it is always best to error way on the side of reliable over light. Smooth is far and away more important than light. You better off working one of those grip exercising deals then chasing the lightest trigger possible.
So should I just do the rebound spring if I don't pay a professional to maintain reliability? I think the 686 I'll pay to have done because it's a family heirloom but a snub I might just do the spring and call it good? I do want to learn some basic stuff but after the move I already have enough **** to move soon lol
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Old 02-12-2024, 04:19 AM
Mstorm Mstorm is online now
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Where are you located? Because if you're in Texas, Tipton Burns in Canyon Lake does awesome work.
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Old 02-12-2024, 09:08 AM
hardluk1 hardluk1 is offline
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Where are you located ?
Where does who live ? If me its western NC .
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Old 02-12-2024, 01:20 PM
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Nelson ford highly recommended
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Originally Posted by fdover View Post
I second that. He has done 3 of my guns and they all have a very smooth action and light pull both single and double action. No FTF.
Fred #2968
The sparsity of his site doesn't reflect on the excellence of the work.

The Gunsmith, Inc.
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Old 02-12-2024, 05:26 PM
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Where does who live ? If me its western NC .

I think he meant the OP.


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Old 02-12-2024, 08:37 PM
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Back in the 80's I had Andy Cannon tune a bunch of my Smiths. At the time he was reputed to be the best. These days I don't do anything with the actions. Just shoot and dry fire them and let them smooth out naturally. I used to mess with spring kits and would end up with mushy actions and triggers that didn't snap right back. These days if I buy a used guns and someone has messed with the springs, I call Smith and they send me new factory springs at no charge.

I don't feel handicapped at all with factory actions.

Last edited by madmikeb; 02-12-2024 at 08:39 PM.
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Old 02-12-2024, 09:17 PM
rct269 rct269 is offline
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So should I just do the rebound spring if I don't pay a professional to maintain reliability? I think the 686 I'll pay to have done because it's a family heirloom but a snub I might just do the spring and call it good? I do want to learn some basic stuff but after the move I already have enough **** to move soon lol
You can certainly try messing with the rebound spring only-----that's what I started out doing---a loooooooooooong time ago! It worked to lighten the single action trigger pull. It certainly had some impact on the double action trigger pull as well-----but my focus was on single action.

The first thing I learned, whacking off coils one at a time, was some's good, more's better, and too much is too much---a nice trigger pull, but a sloppy, unpredictable trigger return. I whacked off coils a half a coil at a time the next time around. That made it take longer before I learned about too much is too much again.

The last thing I learned is there needs to be what I'll call a balance between the rebound spring and the mainspring. That's what spring kits are all about---and they're already balanced. You don't have to do anything besides stuff them in there---and do yourself a favor, and stuff them in EXACTLY like they tell you to do!

You can experiment with more than a few spring kits before you've spent the money it takes just to ship your your gun to one of the pistolsmiths. And I'm not knocking those folks---they do very nice work---smoothing this, and polishing that. What I don't know is the difference in feel between a stock, standard gun with (just) a spring kit-----and one with a spring kit AND the smoothing and polishing. I know the pistolsmiths' version is going to look really spiffy inside, but I've yet to experience the FEEL of their work---compared to just a $20-$30 spring kit. That's because just the spring kit works GREAT!!

Ralph Tremaine

One of the things the pistolsmiths do is smooth and polish the bore where the rebound spring lives. You can't even see that, but you know it's there---and you know it can't hurt. And again, what I don't know is what impact it has on the feel.

Maybe someday.

Last edited by rct269; 02-12-2024 at 09:30 PM.
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Old 02-12-2024, 09:19 PM
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wheelyfun66 wheelyfun66 is offline
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The sparsity of his site doesn't reflect on the excellence of the work.

The Gunsmith, Inc.
Is his turn-around time measured in weeks or months?
(I will call or email him, but curious for a rough idea of his turn around)
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Old 02-12-2024, 09:38 PM
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By the time you pay the shipping both ways and the gunsmith fee , you are better off buying the equipment and some extra springs to do the work yourself. Jerry Miculek has a nice video on doing the work. If you have no mechanical aptitude then just pay the fees and embrace it. But if you do then you have the tools for the next revolver you buy.
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Old 02-12-2024, 09:48 PM
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wheelyfun66 wheelyfun66 is offline
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By the time you pay the shipping both ways and the gunsmith fee , you are better off buying the equipment and some extra springs to do the work yourself. Jerry Miculek has a nice video on doing the work. If you have no mechanical aptitude then just pay the fees and embrace it. But if you do then you have the tools for the next revolver you buy.
I don't mind paying a pro to do a pro's work!
I let my doctor help me with my health, my mechanic fix my car, my dentist work on my teeth.... and a good gunsmith work on my guns, ha!
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Old 02-13-2024, 07:05 AM
dogdoc dogdoc is offline
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I don't mind paying a pro to do a pro's work!
I let my doctor help me with my health, my mechanic fix my car, my dentist work on my teeth.... and a good gunsmith work on my guns, ha!
To each his own but it is not rocket or medical science . It is really quite simple and fun . But ,I realize , not for everybody. Just an alternative if you are so inclined.
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Old 02-13-2024, 07:33 AM
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StrawHat StrawHat is online now
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By the time you pay the shipping both ways and the gunsmith fee , you are better off buying the equipment and some extra springs to do the work yourself. Jerry Miculek has a nice video on doing the work. If you have no mechanical aptitude then just pay the fees and embrace it. But if you do then you have the tools for the next revolver you buy.
My FFL will ship handguns for $25. Not a big deal.

Kevin
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Old 02-13-2024, 10:25 AM
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Is his turn-around time measured in weeks or months?
(I will call or email him, but curious for a rough idea of his turn around)
You definitely want to call. He's old-school, and not much for the interweb and email, LOL. Hence, the low-brow website presence.
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Old 02-14-2024, 01:00 AM
Skully128 Skully128 is offline
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Where are you located? Because if you're in Texas, Tipton Burns in Canyon Lake does awesome work.
In oregon but moving to Texas in a few months by San Antonio. I'm not against shipping or paying a pro but eventually I think I might try to learn myself but I don't wana f up my carry backup revolver or family one lol
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Old 02-14-2024, 03:06 AM
schutz5 schutz5 is offline
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Frank Glenn-Glenn Custom Complete Gunsmithing Service Glendale AZ

This guy is top notch.
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