Unfortunately, the eBay market for N frame target stocks is through the roof right now. I paid 80 bucks for these fixer uppers, but I want to verify the wood type and ask if anyone on the forum knows the best matching filler for the holes the previous owner drilled in the bottom. Also, why do you think you would’ve put them there? My guess is some sort of hack job of a grip cap, but I really don’t know. I’m actually looking forward to the challenge of fixing them up but certainly not too proud to ask the advice of others who have gone before me. Thank you all.

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DDG-8 "Sine Timore"

We need a lighter picture. Just a little edit.

Bruce

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Any better. Thank you.

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DDG-8 "Sine Timore"

They look to be walnut. The holes are from a steel or brass plate that a few LEO's would put on the bottom.

Don't use filler. Find some walnut and make small plugs that you can force into the holes with a touch of wood glue and sand. You want to try to match the grain, which should be easy. Make sure to cut the wood so the ends of the grain show as you look at the bottom of the stocks.

The cut-out is also modified, that would be a tougher repair. With a little time, you could find a better set for little more $ in the classifieds here.

The screw holes are consistent with the installation of a brass or other metal butt cap that some police officers installed on target stocks when revolvers were in most police holsters.

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Richard Gillespie
FBINA 102

I’m not suggesting this as a good idea… more as a desperation move if needed. One way to get a good color match is to harvest small pieces of wood from inside the grip and make your dowels from that. It’s the kind of thing I’d consider on a 50’s solid body guitar with a serious edge ding. Obviously fraught with peril…

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Uvidíme se později, aligátore.

I think standard Goncalo Alves by the era of speedloader cutout Target stocks.

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Alan
SWCA LM 2023, SWHF 220

Thank you for the tip on how plugging the holes. The cut out did catch my eye, but I’m not sure it’s modified or just looks off in the photo. We’ll see when they come in, but unfortunately, I have no other n frame with the speed loader cut out to compare them to.

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DDG-8 "Sine Timore"

I like taking chances, better yet I like taking chances that work out. I’ve done my share of wishing I never attempted things but everything’s a learning experience.
How would I go about making dowels to plug the holes? Whether from inside the grip or other source, I’m not sure how to go about making them that small.

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DDG-8 "Sine Timore"

If I could acquire one of those plates, it would be problem solved. Unfortunately, I can’t even find an image of one on my Google searches.

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DDG-8 "Sine Timore"

This is what I would do. Just cut some pieces a little bigger than needed and cut, sand or stick in a drill and round them close enough. You want to have to pound them in, but not so tight to split the grips. The cut-out is not original, might even be cut into football stocks.

If you don't have any wood send me a PM, I can provide a hunk of S&W walnut.

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Looks like Goncalo Alves from here. S&W used only that from about 1970-1985 or so.

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S&WHF #946
S&WCA #3824

If it was me. I would try to recreate the metal plate idea. That looks nice

Unfortunately and oddly, I have the same problem with a set of target presentation k frame stocks myself. I thought I might just hollow the bottom of the grip out just like Ruger did with their target stocks so the serial number could be seen.

My first thought is for you to contact one of our Forum's woodworking experts...they are outstanding craftsmen that do great work for a fair price. Unless you're a very good DIY guy, that might be the best way to go. A few years ago I was fortunate to pick up this Model 27-2 from a friend's father, and IMHO the plates were installed much more tastefully than using several wood screws. I can remove the stocks without having to remove screws. Good luck!

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[QUOTE=MelvinWalker;141985256]Unfortunately and oddly, I have the same problem with a set of target presentation k frame stocks myself. I thought I might just hollow the bottom of the grip out just like Ruger did with their target stocks so the serial number could be seen.

I would guess the plate that were on yours was in the design of a badge or other. I have seen several silver very ornate plates that have meaning to the officer that had them.

If those were repaired and refinished they would look quite nice. Not any where as "bad" as the OP's.

[quote=Vtgw938;141985280]They actually are nice. Very heavy walnut..They came from a demilled Model 10 heavy barrel. Probably some department with bad politics that destroyed their service revolvers instead of trading them in.

I'd like to have the plate that was on there or at least see what it looked like.

Rather than fabricating plugs from walnut stock (or from the grip itself) you may want to consider simplifying the repair by searching online for a walnut dowel, then enlarging the holes as needed to the diameter of the dowel. A quick search turned up a number of sources, but I didn't go into great detail looking at diameters that are available. I'd probably opt for 1/4" myself (assuming that size is available). Then I'd place the grips in my drill press vice and carefully enlarge the holes to a diameter of 1/4" using a sharp drill, at a depth of about 1/4" or so. Then cut the dowel to a tad over that length, glue in the hole as a "plug", and once it's dry, sand flush. The end grain of the dowel should be a fairly close match to the end grain of the grips.

Good luck,
Lou

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NRA Certified Instructor & RSO

Here you go, at least how I do it. Doweling with never match and you would have to order it if you wanted walnut. Why bother for an an inch of wood. I made a hole and plugged it in less than 15 minutes, most of which was looking for my Tru-oil.

Here is a simplified step by step. Obviously didn't wait for the glue to dry and didn't spend any time on any portion of it but shows how to do it.



CUT PLUG: (make it long to start so you can handle, sand, cut it)




GLUE & POUND IN: (slight taper on plug will expand and fill voids)



TINT PLUG AS NEEDED: (can use markers)





APPLY FINISH (can still tint/blend and add grain lines if needed)

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^^^^^^*

Looks like GA to me.

I think you will find they are walnut and possibly football relief to start.

First off, I sincerely thank you for posting the how to on plugging the holes. That’s definitely above and beyond anything I ever expected!
Here’s some more pics of the grips after the initial acetone strip. Maybe they shed more light on species and if they started life as footballs.

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DDG-8 "Sine Timore"

They look pretty good. They are walnut but as far as whether they were football or speedloader cut-outs to start I don't know. Give them a light sanding with fine sandpaper and clean out the checkering and border. If you want to lighten up or remove the black stains, I have found Brownell's Oxpho-Blue actually works well.

Son of a bitch……all that and they’re Ks. Contacting seller now.

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DDG-8 "Sine Timore"

I either need your plate or you need my grips...Thanks much~

On Ebay, I'm not sure the seller will take them back after starting a refinish on them? What did they say?

No response yet. They seem to be an eBay store so maybe not till Monday but they were listed as N frame so I have no doubt we’ll reach an agreement. I offered to take them at half of what I paid thinking they were Ns or return them unfinished. I told the seller I’ll do whatever he thinks is best

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DDG-8 "Sine Timore"

There are some threads here on how to tell the difference from a pic. If the outside horizontal ledge toward the backstrap next to the stock circle insert looks to be about the same size as the rivet in the insert, it is a K/L.