.....what areas/issues should I look for while inspecting before purchase?
No box or paperwork are included.

Exterior, check for overall finish. Has someone polished it or is still factory? Scuffed and scratched or in excellent condition?

What stocks is it wearing, factory wood target stocks or aftermarket?

Are the sights factory or replacements?

Has the frame been drilled for scope mounts?

Is there significant erosion at the barrel's forcing cone?

With the cylinder open, looks down the barrel, is there a visible constriction of the bore where it screws into the frame? That's a sign the barrel was over-torqued, likely at the factory, and can negatively impact accuracy.

Cylinder end play (with the cylinder locked into the frame) should be not more than 0.004".

Check the cylinder timing, the cylinder stop should engage the cylinder notches in a normal manner, if the cylinder does not rotate enough for the stop to fully engage the notches, either the hand is worn or the ratchet (star) is worn.

The cylinder should rotate smoothly as you cock the hammer, if it binds, that could be as simple as debris under the ejector, but it could be a bent ejector rod or bent yoke.

Cock the hammer into single action, give the hammer a little push forward to make sure the sear is captured by the cocking notch in the hammer.

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VCDL, GOA, NRA

Appreciate all of the above, stansdds.
Gun is not wearing its original grips and looks like it may have been shined up a bit (Flitz) but far from being polished all over. Close up pics does show some swirls in the finish but overall condition looks good. No signs of being beat on from the pics. Will have to arrange a meet with the seller to actually check the cycling and play.

There's nothing wrong with a 629-1. Some folks place importance on the fact that those guns lacked the "Endurance Package" of the -2E edition but most people I know who would consider buying an older Smith & Wesson .44 Magnum revolver would not be planning on pounding it with full-throttle loads. About ten years ago, I bought one just for target shooting and my only complaint is that the front red ramp sight is integral to the rib; I would much prefer a black Patridge sight but hate to alter such a nice older gun. If the gun had a pinned sight like the newer guns have I would have changed it out years ago.

The only alterations to mine are a Millett rear sight (better for target shooting than the factory sight) and an extra set of genuine S&W Combat stocks, both easily reversed. The only ammunition I use in it is 240-grain cast semi-wadcutters over 10.0 grains of SR 4756.

Ed

Attached Images

	629-1d.jpg (231.9 KB, 28 views)
	629-1b.jpg (285.5 KB, 22 views)

You can shoot the 629-1 with full power loads no problem just like you can in a 29-2 or any pre endurance package Smith 44 magnum. They may go out of time faster than the post endurance guns but to most that is academic and they will not shoot thousands of full power mags. I have samples of both generations and have been shooting full power loads since the early 1980s. If I were going to shoot mostly heavy bullet full power loads in great quantity then I would go with a later model. I suppose as a Handloader I shoot mostly mid level loads through mine but I definitely do not hesitate to shoot full power loads through my pre endurance 629s and 29s

Been shooting factory federal and Winchester load’s through mine for 30 yrs. No problems. These are not hot rod loads like some boutique ammo companies sell but they are considered full strength 240 gr loads.

As for durability, the pre-endurance package 29/629 will have issues much sooner when shooting full power loads using bullets weighing more than 250 grains. With loads using bullets of 250 grains or less, it should take a whole lot of shooting to develop problems. Most of us are not likely to shoot enough full power loads to ever have a problem.

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VCDL, GOA, NRA