Should I Purchase a New S&W Model 19-9 Classic Series?

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SWFan27

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I already have a few S&W revolvers including 357 Magnums and including a Model 66-8 which is pretty much the same revolver as the 19-9 but without the blued finish and wood grips of the 19.

I am wanting to add a blued S&W 357 Magnum to my collection. I love that old school vibe. I am assuming some forum members own the 19-9 and I am hoping to get the thoughts and opinions about it. I am looking online for vintage ones also. They never show up in California gun shops.
 
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Given S&W's QC, the sleeved barrel, MIM parts and laminated wood grips, I think for $900 or so I'd look for a pre 1982 M19, or at least a pre-lock. A nice dash-3 or 4 would be about the same price and if you find an especially nice one, worth more as a collectible.
 
Seeing that you live in such a Draconian State. I think it is terrible that they will not allow used firearms to come into the State unless they are on the so-called approved list

If you have availability to buy the model 19 that you were talking about I see no reason not to go ahead and do it
 
Hair Trigger said:
Given S&W's QC, the sleeved barrel, MIM parts and laminated wood grips, I think for $900 or so I'd look for a pre 1982 M19, or at least a pre-lock. A nice dash-3 or 4 would be about the same price and if you find an especially nice one, worth more as a collectible.
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I agree with Hair Trigger. For that price you can get an all metal 19 in good condition. The only good thing about the new model 19-9’s, is that you can use what ever weight bullet you want to shoot. The older 19/66 k frames you should only use 158 gr .38 special for range practice. 158gr .357 magnum for carry or sparingly at the range. Anything else you run the risk of cracking the forcing cone. And I can tell you from personal experience. Replacing a model 19 barrel of any size is very very difficult. It took me almost a year to find a barrel and that was in 2010.
 
This forum seems to lean toward the older pre-lock, pre-barrel sleeved guns that many consider an investment. The factory labels “Classic” on the new guns to pretend they are an extension of the originals but we know they are not and will certainly not be a collectors item. Research will indicate the 125 grain 357 loads were the cause of the cracked frames but few have ever seen or experienced that issue. I was a dept armorer in the 70’s and 80’s when revolvers were in use. Not to say there were no problems,but I never saw a cracked frame on any K frame magnum. There were lots of timing and end shake issues on those revolvers and why I would never recommend a used LEO gun purchase unless it was examined by a knowledgable person prior to purchase.
 
shawn mccarver said:
Here is a thorough review of the 19 Classic Series by an experienced S&W armorers

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4h9l2ipiKf4
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Thank you, Shawn. I recall seeing that video a few years ago. But watching it again, and while taking apart the revolver I am now thinking about purchasing, pretty much sold me on getting the 19-9. I love my 66-8 that I bought in 2020 and I am sure I will cherish both of them.

All that being said, I am still hoping to find and purchase some nice vintage S&W's after I move out of California. Earlier this month California added an additional 11% tax on all firearm and ammunition purchases in the state. That includes buying online from vintage sellers. And we can't do neighbor to neighbor kind of sales here either. The vintage market is just too sketchy, at least if you happen to live in California.
 
I just saw a pretty nice 19-4 up here in Sac so maybe be patient and start scouring your local shops if you want an older one. But if you’re planning on shooting a lot of full power loads in it maybe the modern one is a better choice for that.
 
From what I’ve read about the quality control lately, I’m leery on buying new.
 
I have a Mod 19-2 made in 1966 that I carried for 20+ years as a plain clothes Detective and it still is a great shooter.
 
ken158 said:
This forum seems to lean toward the older pre-lock, pre-barrel sleeved guns that many consider an investment. The factory labels “Classic” on the new guns to pretend they are an extension of the originals but we know they are not and will certainly not be a collectors item. Research will indicate the 125 grain 357 loads were the cause of the cracked frames but few have ever seen or experienced that issue. I was a dept armorer in the 70’s and 80’s when revolvers were in use. Not to say there were no problems,but I never saw a cracked frame on any K frame magnum. There were lots of timing and end shake issues on those revolvers and why I would never recommend a used LEO gun purchase unless it was examined by a knowledgable person prior to purchase.
Click to expand...
Don't you mean "cracked forcing cone" rather than "cracked frame"? That said, I've owned four K frame .357 magnums (two M19's and two M66's) and used to shoot a lot of 125 grain magnum loads back in the 1970's with my first two, never had an issue. I'm sure someone has or there wouldn't be the apocryphal stories about cracked FC's.

shawn mccarver said:
Here is a thorough review of the 19 Classic Series by an experienced S&W armorers

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4h9l2ipiKf4
Click to expand...
This guy does a lot of apples to oranges comparisons that make me think he's not as knowledgeable as he thinks he is. For instance, one comparison here is the investment casting where he compares the hardness of gun parts to those of jet engine turbine blades. He doesn't take into consideration that those engine parts are Titanium and not steel, have a very narrow range of use, and are much more precisely made than a gun part. When you look at the engineering of new S&W revolvers as compared to their true "classic" models, almost every change has been to make manufacturing less expensive and more automated, not necessarily to make them better.
 
To the OP. As you appreciate vintage items, I suggest you look for a 28-2.
I would suggest a 4 inch model, in which you can use ammo of your choice without fear of mechanical compromise. If the original stocks are not to your liking, then whatever pleases you, “combat”, target, stag or something else.

Of course, at sometime in your future, for further pleasure, a model 19–9 may be on your agenda. That is all the better, and part of the program!
 
A 19-9 without manufacturing flaws is a fine sidearm. They have a durability advantage over the vintage 19, but it is very difficult to beat the dynamic handling qualities of the older models. If you enjoy your 66-8, you will like the 19-9 as well. When you purchase, take a feeler gauge with you. If the BC gap is less than .004 or more than .010 you should probably find a different one. Check the timing, and make sure the barrel shroud is not clocked. Lastly, look for burrs and machining marks. If it passes, buy it and enjoy it.
 
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I bought a MIM/HH/ 2 piece 67-6 that turned out to be my best shooter in the safe. Tack driver. After I knew it shot well I had Frank Glenn work the action and it’s unbelievable now. My TRR8 is actually my best shooter, 67-6 is second place. Both amazing. I’d like to have a classic 19 myself. It’s nice to have the classic antique guns that are original and pretty and I’m all into that but I think there’s definitely a place and everybody’s collection for the new guns
 

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All I can comment on is my own personal feelings and experience. I would not buy any current production S&W revolver - period! Buy a Colt - they are excellent! If and UNTIL S&W gets their act together, either buy a good vintage S&W revolver that has been properly inspected or a Colt. The latter will of course come with a warranty - the vintage - you are on your own.

Sorry to have to put it this way, but it's just as I see it.
 
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