Grip Shine??

Mickstix · #1 05-22-2009, 11:13 PM

Hey guys, any ideas on what to use, or how I could get these grips to shine up a little? The original "Herretts" finish is about gone and they're almost dull now. I used some "Pledge w/Orange oil" on them and they looked real good until I wiped em off and they dried.

Thanks for any tips!!

AzShooter · #2 05-23-2009, 12:17 AM

almost any good stock oil will work, I like Birch Casey. My favorite treatment is to use PURE TUNGUE OIL.

s&wchad · #3 05-23-2009, 04:28 AM

I use Johnson's paste wax on wood. Keep it out of the checkering.

Cruiser RN · #4 05-23-2009, 05:16 AM

If the grips are particularly dry I use orange glo orange oil and let them soak it in.after about an hour wipe them off and they look great....God Bless.....Mike

sar4937 · #5 05-23-2009, 05:20 AM

You can remove the original finish by soaking in acetone and gently scrubbing with a toothbrush. You can them apply any finish you want to.

J.Solo · #6 05-23-2009, 06:40 AM

Mickstix;

Those grips are JUNK now.
Send them to me and I will replace them with a nice set of grips.
Maybe I can even save those Herretts if I try really hard. (Strip & True Oil Finish)

J.Solo

luangtom · #7 05-23-2009, 07:53 AM

Yup, strip them down and then Birchwood-Casey TruOil and then their Wax.

RonJon · #8 05-23-2009, 01:53 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by s&wchad:
I use Johnson's paste wax on wood. Keep it out of the checkering.

You can go ahead and get it on the checkering, just go over the checkering with an old, clean soft toothbrush afterwards and the wax particles will come right out.

RonJon

james56 · #9 05-23-2009, 06:10 PM

yup strip now lol after you do that like the other gentalmen said johnson's paste wax it also is good after you polish the SS to high luster rub it in let dry buff out but put on those sun glasses frist

nisamo · #10 05-23-2009, 07:11 PM

Couple hard rubbed in coats of Birchwood Casey stock sheen & conditioner and then a couple coats of Johson's wax. finish with a coat of Renaissance and you've got something.

Mickstix · #11 05-23-2009, 08:47 PM

Thanks for all the replies!! Since it seems like a majority opinion that I should stip the rest of the original finish off first, how do ya go about doing it properly?? And where do ya find these "Birchwood Casey" products?? Thanks once again!!

luangtom · #12 05-23-2009, 09:02 PM

Most stores like Wal-Marts have Birchwood-Casey products. For sure, BassPro Shops, Cabela's, etc., have these products. Lotsa local gun-shops do, too.

nisamo · #13 05-24-2009, 06:50 AM

Your grips don't look that bad to me. Before I'd refinish I'd give them a good cleaning and waxing. Mineral spirits is a good cleaner. wash them in mineral Spirits, let them dry good. Use the BC Stock sheen then and then put a couple coats of johnson's paste wax on it. If I didn't have the BC Stock Sheen on hand I might skip it and just follow mineral spirits bath with wax. If you're not satisfied then go through the stripping, refinishing process.

I got to tell you, that really ain't all that much fun. If you need to refinish then do it but try the easy way first. you got nothing to lose and you may save yourself a lot of work.

BBossman1 · #14 05-24-2009, 12:49 PM

I've been using Butcher Bowling Alley Wax with good success.

Mickstix · #15 05-24-2009, 10:36 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by nisamo:
Your grips don't look that bad to me. Before I'd refinish I'd give them a good cleaning and waxing.

Yea, there not that bad, but the picture gives them more shine than they really have.. Their just kinda dull.. I think I will give the wax a try first though, just to see how it does..

Thanks again, all, for the help!

Mickstix · #16 05-25-2009, 02:00 PM

One last question.. I've got Acetone, Denatured Alcohol, Paint Thinner, and Super Strip.. Any of that good for "cleaning" the grips, or do I need to get Mineral Spirits for that job??

nisamo · #17 05-25-2009, 04:07 PM

I'd stay away from the acetone and super strip unless you decide to refinish. Paint thinner and mineral spirits used to be the same thing. I keep a quart of kleanstrip brand odorless mineral spirits around just for cleaning and mixing with boiled linseed oil. Either the pt or alcohol will work as a fast evaporating cleaner for your grips.

Mickstix · #18 05-25-2009, 10:23 PM

Great, thanks!!

gunlovingirl · #19 05-26-2009, 06:55 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by AzShooter:
almost any good stock oil will work, I like Birch Casey. My favorite treatment is to use PURE TUNGUE OIL.

+1 on the tung oil. But the surface would need to be completely stripped first.

Mickstix · #20 05-26-2009, 07:09 PM

Ok, anyone know the proper way to strip em' and where to get the Tung Oil?? I tried cleaning them with paint thinner, then applying some bowling alley paste wax.. They look sweet when wet, but as soon as they dry their back to being dull.. Seems they just wont hold or take any wax? I tried 3 coats.. Was gonna post before and after pix but ya cant tell a difference.. Heres the "after"..

Drail · #21 05-26-2009, 07:15 PM

If you really want a shiny finish then strip them down to bare wood and spray several coats of polyurethane varnish on then. Get the high gloss, not the satin.

nisamo · #22 05-27-2009, 06:22 AM

Yep, from that picture I can see the finish deterioration and I'd strip them. Acetone is what I use. Find the smallest container that will hold them, I've used the plastic tubs that lunchmeat comes in and use the lid to keep unwanted things out. I generally work outside for this stage. Soak your grips for a couple hours then scrub them with an old toothbrush. It may take a couple of soaks but you don't have a heavy poly finish to cut thru so I doubt stripping will be a big job. I'd touch up around the checkering with some 220 sandpaper lightly to smooth imperfections.

Pure Tung oil is kinda hard to find. Tung oil finish is available but I've been happy with an old homebrew oil finish. 1 part boiled linseed oil, 1 part mineral spirits and 1 part spar or marine varnish. Brownells sells a small container of LinSpeed oil finish that is about the same as my homebrew. My mix will work without the varnish, just won't be as glossy.

The way I do it is start with clean dry stripped grips and I usually just use my finger and rub it in. Maybe I'll use a clean lintfree cloth the first application but spend some time and rub it in good and as it soaks in, continue to add more. The checkering is tricky. You don't want to build up too much in there so use a toothbrush and get it saturated but don't leave any globs.

Let them dry for a day then use 500 grit sandpaper or 0000 steel wool to scuff the finish, wipe it down good with tack cloth and repeat the procedure. The reason for scuffing is so the next coat will get into the wood and not just lay on top of the oil. You'll just have to get a feel for how to handle the checkering. Maybe the first coat is all you'll want to put on it. About 3 coats will do for the smooth wood but more won't hurt.

After all is done I wax mine. I use Johnson's paste wax about 3 coats and then a couple coats of Renaissance. I think the Ren makes it pop a little more but it may be my imagination.

Good luck and don't burn the house down.

Mickstix · #23 05-27-2009, 09:38 PM

Thanks for the added info nisamo!! I'll post a new "after" pic once Im finished..

On the oil app.. Is it necessary to let them dry a full 24 hrs., between each coat??

Thanks again!!

Mickstix · #24 06-02-2009, 10:25 PM

Ok, I about got em done!! I got the Birchwood Casey "Stock Refinishing Kit" that comes with stain, oil, and the stock sheen/conditioner..
The pics are, from left to right, the grips in original condition, then after I had stripped the old finish w/acetone and sanded them lightly, I put a little of the stain on them (thinned with water) to give them a little darker look, and finally is the finished "dry" product after 3 coats of BC oil.. (Let dry 24 hours and ruffed up with 0000 steel wool between coats) The camera doesnt do them justice.. They do look glossy, but not gaudy-wet like the photo appears.. lol.. Now the only decision left is whether to use the Sheen & Conditioner or some paste wax I have on them, or just leave them as is?? Does anyone know if it reduces the glossy appearance, or enhances it?? Thanks again for all the info and help and for any info on the final steps..

n4zov · #25 06-03-2009, 01:06 PM

When the factory finish finally gets spotty on my Herrett's Jordan Trooper grips, I strip them and sand very lightly starting with 400 grit and going through 1200 grit. Then I apply about a dozen coats of Tru Oil lightly polishing with 0000 steel wood between coats. Not having checkering to deal with makes this process much easier.

Bullseye Smith · #26 06-03-2009, 01:29 PM

Mickstic take a stiff brush and go over the checkering easy to give it a duller tone and it will stand out better, then they will look like the factory stocks do.

Mickstix · #27 06-03-2009, 09:44 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by n4zov:
Then I apply about a dozen coats of Tru Oil lightly polishing with 0000 steel wood between coats.

I started out thinking I was gonna do 4-6 coats, but that 24hr wait between coats is a killer..

I couldnt believe how easy it is to do, and like ya say, if you dont have checkering to mess with it could be right down fun..

I have a few old sets of magnas I might experiment with.. But they do have checkering too, but it's really not that big a deal..

John, what kind of brush are you referring to? Like a brass wire, or just a stiff "tooth" brush?? As I said, the picture really isnt a good representation of their actual gloss.. I only put 1 coat on the checkered areas for that reason, and they dont look "gooey" like the photo.. Im still contemplating rubbin in some "sheen/conditioner" and see what that does.. But Im pretty happy with em' the way they are.. Looks sooooo much better than the dulled out Harrett's that I started with!!