When aiming a model 19, factory red ramp sight, do you aim so that the top of the red ramp is directly under your target? Does it split the target or does it cover the target? I have Ruger 44 magnum and am okay with it, but I was not impressed with my accuracy on a new model 19 and I’ve only heard good things about the accuracy of the newer guns. I’m sure it’s operator error.
Proper red ramp sight picture
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Chrisj357
Member
Ideally a horizontal line across the top of the rear sight intersecting a vertical line splitting the front sight in half (with the top of the front sight even with the top of the rear) would be the crosshairs and the center the point of impact. However every gun / pair of sights is different
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Protocall_Design
Member
If you are shooting at only one kind of target like a bullseye that is always the same, you can sight in the gun for a 6 0'clock hold where the top of the sights is on the bottom edge of the circle.
If you are shooting different kinds of targets, you want to sight in so the point of impact where the bullet hits the target is right on top of the front sight.
The problem with the red ramp sights has always been that it is difficult to determine exactly where the top of the ramp is. In most lighting conditions, the top of the ramp kind of fades out, not giving a clear edge to go by. This is why the patridge sight is more favored by target shooters. It has a very definite top edge.
If you are shooting different kinds of targets, you want to sight in so the point of impact where the bullet hits the target is right on top of the front sight.
The problem with the red ramp sights has always been that it is difficult to determine exactly where the top of the ramp is. In most lighting conditions, the top of the ramp kind of fades out, not giving a clear edge to go by. This is why the patridge sight is more favored by target shooters. It has a very definite top edge.
Which is best? This may be easier with a picture.
Attachments
For anything other than bullseye target shooting you want the point of impact to be point of aim, #2 in the illustration. Stick the top of the front sight where you want to hit at your normal shooting distance. Do this regardless of red ramp or not.
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The sight picture is always the same. Keep the top of the front sight even with the blades of the rear sight, and centered in the notch.
The position on target depends on the purpose. For target shooting, the top of the sight is held at 6:00 on the bulls eye, with the elevation set to place the shots in the center.
For hunting and combat, the sights are adjusted and the top of the sight is placed on the intended point of impact (ie center of mass), at a pre-determined distance (typically 50 yards). At other distances, the hold over (or under) depends on the estimated distance, and experience.
The position on target depends on the purpose. For target shooting, the top of the sight is held at 6:00 on the bulls eye, with the elevation set to place the shots in the center.
For hunting and combat, the sights are adjusted and the top of the sight is placed on the intended point of impact (ie center of mass), at a pre-determined distance (typically 50 yards). At other distances, the hold over (or under) depends on the estimated distance, and experience.
This is picky, but what you just described is sight alignment. Sight picture is where the properly aligned sights are placed upon the target.
I don't know the first thing about it, but I've supposed the colored inserts are there to enable a quicker "pick up" of the front sight---and play no role in the actual sight picture---which is to say it's a combat oriented sight.
Ralph Tremaine
Ralph Tremaine
"front sight, front sight, front sight"
The reason I can't shoot a shotgun the proper way.
The reason I can't shoot a shotgun the proper way.
scruffy
Member
Right or wrong, I seem to get the best results with red ramp front sights by properly aligning the sights and using the very top of red ramp for point of impact which is similar to sight picture #3. This is easier and more repeatable to me than trying to identify the black top of the ramped sight while focusing on the target. Not saying it's right or wrong, but it works for me with older eyes.
I like the 6 o clock hold so I can see the target. But center hold works too. As long as your windage is good just adjust it to your liking/load. With the top of each sight even across the top. It’s how I’ve done it for years. Seems to work good for me.
Dead on hold or stick it where you want to hit, is best for hunting and defensive work or practicing for same. Hard to use a 6 o'clock hold on a deer or offender. It becomes Kentucky windage of sorts. Put the front sight (top) where you want to hit. Where appropriate, concentrate on the front sight not the target or the rear sight.Defensive situations require target/threat identification and scanning so the front sight is usually up on the target but it is not the focus. You can still see the front sight on target, but not like you would if shooting in a PPC competition. Muscle memory will likely make point shooting effective at close range.
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For the most part, I've never found the red ramp insert to be particularly useful. Like has been mentioned above, my sight alignment preference has been the top of the front sight even with the top edge of the rear sight blade.
SGT ROCK 11B
Member
I like the Red Ramp since the 1970s. As a cop we started shooting combat courses of fire like “Hogans Alley” and such. With the RR/WO I was on target quicker.
The Model 19 is a good choice.
The Model 19 is a good choice.
JohnHL
Member
For me, I find that sights without dots work best with a "six-o'clock" hold.
However, S&W semi autos with dot sights, seem to want to shoot to point of aim, by putting the "dot" on the bullseye.
Like I said, for me.
John
However, S&W semi autos with dot sights, seem to want to shoot to point of aim, by putting the "dot" on the bullseye.
Like I said, for me.
John
I like a 6 o'clock hold for shooting NRA style targets, but JohnHL pointed out, S&W pistols with 3-dot sights seem to be regulated for a combat hold in which the point of impact will be at the top edge of the front sight or even within the front sight's dot when the sights are properly aligned.
just plain joe
Member
I was taught, "Light bars and level" when shooting. This refers to there being equal amounts of "daylight" on both sides of the front sight when centered in the rear sight notch, along with the top of the front sight being level with the top of the rear sight.
I normally utilize a "6 o'clock hold" when shooting 25 yards. When getting close, 12 yards and in, I aim center mass. This is not "the way", it is "a way". Lots of good information here. Find out what works for you and drive on.
HTH.
JPJ
I normally utilize a "6 o'clock hold" when shooting 25 yards. When getting close, 12 yards and in, I aim center mass. This is not "the way", it is "a way". Lots of good information here. Find out what works for you and drive on.
HTH.
JPJ
I put the front sight where I want it to impact. As far as the red ramp, the only gun I have with the ramp, the ramp is so faded it's hard to see. I painted the whole front sight bright flourescent orange, all my revolvers use the same configuration. Whole blade orange. On the semi's, some just have the dots orange, a couple have the blade painted. But on all I put the front sight where I want to hit.
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