barrel crown question

roar

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Hello, I am wondering what the crown of a S&W revolver should look like, or more specifically, a J frame. The crown on my 442 seems off. The beveled part, if you want to call it that, seems uneven, or it might be described as part of the barrel's rifling ending at different spots. Sometimes it looks fine to me and other times it seems real off.

I shot the revolver today, and I think everything went fine. I would go as far to say that the gun is more accurate than I ever will be, but I am wondering if it could be better with a better crown. The gun shoots fine and I know its not supposed to be a long range handgun, but I would prefer the best I can get. Someone else said that their J frame's crown looks like mine, and that it is normal, but I am wondering what you guys think.

This is a thumbnail, click on it to see a larger version



Excuse the closed cylinder. The gun is unloaded but this was the best way I could get a picture.
 
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Hello, I am wondering what the crown of a S&W revolver should look like, or more specifically, a J frame. The crown on my 442 seems off. The beveled part, if you want to call it that, seems uneven, or it might be described as part of the barrel's rifling ending at different spots. Sometimes it looks fine to me and other times it seems real off.

I shot the revolver today, and I think everything went fine. I would go as far to say that the gun is more accurate than I ever will be, but I am wondering if it could be better with a better crown. The gun shoots fine and I know its not supposed to be a long range handgun, but I would prefer the best I can get. Someone else said that their J frame's crown looks like mine, and that it is normal, but I am wondering what you guys think.

This is a thumbnail, click on it to see a larger version



Excuse the closed cylinder. The gun is unloaded but this was the best way I could get a picture.
 
What I can see of it looks fine, you will see the end of the rifling. As long there isn't any nice's or cuts on it, it should be OK.
 
I looked at it for a while, and to me it does look screwed up. The margin around the bore seems to very from spot to spot, and yes I realize that the ends of the lands are showing and I took that into account. If you blow up the thumbnail, after it has been enlarged, you can get a better view of it.
 
Ya, I really am not sure what to make of it. I wish I was a better shot naturally so I could have gotten a better gauge on whether its ok or not, just from the first range outing.

Here are some more pictures. Thumbnails again.









After I get more ammo I am going to try shooting it again, but I really want to get as much input from you guys regarding the crown. This is my first S&W and I have no idea on what to expect.

Here is a 5 shot target using Speer Gold Dot 135 grain +p ammo. Shot at 21 feet. This was the very first cylinder I shot in the revolver, and I think I did alright. I flinched for two shots. The box of 125 grain Blazer Brass I was shooting seemed to group high for me, but then other times when I would concentrate extra hard on a proper trigger pull it would be more in the center of the target.



Anyone have any more ideas?

Thanks
 
Don't sell yourself short. Time and practice makes all the difference in the world.

The first time I shot a pistol I couldn't hit the side of a barn from inside the barn.

Now so many years later I'd hate to be a running game animal looking at me with my pistol in my hand.

Same thing will happen for you.
 
Heh, I am a pretty good shot I think with my other pistols, but it takes me a while to warm up, and I guess I am not used to the double action trigger pull in a revolver.

I am just wondering if my crown is ok, or if it could possibly be affecting shot accuracy. I don't know what a normal crown should look like on a S&W, as I have never owned one before. This 442 is my favorite gun now, but the one thing that's ugly about it is that crown. If I decide it ends up shooting fine, thats ok, but I am just curious if anyone else has a crown that looks like this etc.
 
Hi Roar,

First off, thank you for your consideration when mentioning the closed cylinder in your barrel on view of your pistol. I know some don't have problems with taking these kind of photos, but I think it's a bad habit to get into, and from experience, every accidental gun shot wound I've ever seen was the result of an unloaded gun.

Secondly, I don't think there is anything wrong with the muzzle of your pistol. I have the stainless steel version of your pistol, the 642, and it looks just like yours. Additionally, the muzzle of my Model 432 (.32H&R Magnum) also resembles your muzzle.

You don't mention if your pistol is new or used. The Centennial style J frame revolvers can be difficult to master. I would recommend a lot of dry firing practice. Additionally, if you haven't already done so, you may want to make sure the internal parts of the revolver are clean and lightly oiled. Dry firing may be the only trigger job you will ever need, but you might want to consider having a gunsmith perform a trigger job on your pistol.

Finally, save your excellent Speer Gold Dot ammo for anti-personnel use, and buy some standard velocity 148 grain wadcutters for practice. Practice a lot. I would suggest shooting from a seated position with your revolver benched/braced if at all possible, and you will soon find out what kind of accuracy your pistol is capable of. For most people, "minute of chest" at 7 yards (the 21 foot rule) is the standard of accuracy. I've never seen any J frame that couldn't significantly exceed that standard .

Best of luck,

Dave
 
Dave, my 442 was bought new in box. I have been dry firing it a ton, but I haven't put any oil on the internal parts yet. I was told that I didn't need to really ever remove the side plate, and I don't plan on it any time soon. I learned that if I feel the need to, I can drop some oil into the internals either through the cylinder hand window, or through the gap in the grip area after removing the grips.

I do plan on practicing with normal ammo. The Gold Dots really are expensive, but I had to fire a cylinder just so I could get a feel for the +p recoil.

I agree that all gun accidents normally occur with an unloaded gun. I didn't like having the cylinder closed, but I had to take different pictures with the cylinder both opened and closed to get different lighting results, in order to find the best pictures that portrayed what my eyes were seeing with my barrel crown.

Dave and John, thanks so much for reassuring me that what I see is normal. This may not be the highest capacity or fastest handgun I own, but I think it is starting to become my favorite. I can't wait to take it to the range again. I already have the urge for a 686 or a 586 now
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If the enhanced photo is not distorted, That Crown Is Not Right! I sent my new 686SSR back a few months ago to have the muzzle re-crowned. S&W paid shipping both ways and had my gun back to me in less than two weeks.
 
Will they just put a new barrel on it? I don't really know how you can recrown a barrel without shortening it, but I don't know anything about gun smithing.

I don't really want to have to send it in, but if they can make it right then I suppose I would go ahead with it.

A few people here said the crown was alright, but maybe it would be worth it to try showing the pictures to S&W and see what they say.

Thanks for the enhanced pictures bdGreen
 
They can recrown that barrel while it's still in the gun without any trouble. It's a fairly simple job.

The light enhanced photos show that it clearly isn't right, which is what I saw when I blew up your first photo. Yes, a poorly crowned muzzle will ruin any hope for best accuracy. Remember that it's the last part of the gun the bullet touches, and if it doesn't leave with equal bearing pressure, accuracy goes downhill quickly. S&W will get that thing crowned right, and have it back to you in less than two weeks normally.
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Wont that shorten the barrel though? I don't really want a less than 2 inch barrel to get any shorter, if possible.
 
Re-crowning a barrel will not shorten the barrel at all, but the rifling will be a couple thousand's inch less. In other words, not enough to ever make any difference in anything but the accuracy.
 
Cool, thanks for the explanation H Richard.

I emailed S&W asking about their warranty service, and I included links to the enhanced photos to show the crown.

I didn't want to have to do this, but if they can make this one thing right then I will be happy. The non-perfect crown is my only dislike with this otherwise excellent handgun. If it gets fixed then I won't really have much else to worry about with it.

Edit to add: I just want to say I know I have been back and forth on how I feel about this, haha. Ever since the beginning I have been on the fence on whether the crown looks odd or not to me, and I have people tell me it looks fine, their barrel looks like that, and it shot fine, and then others have told me that it is definitely messed up. No fault to anyone, and if this makes any sense I think both groups are right, to an extent. Is the crown fine, well it probably is, it could shoot a target at defense distance just fine. Could it be better, most probably, yes. I am hoping that S&W agrees to fix it for me. Once it is fixed, like I said, I will have nothing to be bothered about with this revolver. Regardless I think it is maybe the coolest handgun I own, and if it could be even better then awesome!

Thanks for the help, everyone
 
Sorry to say that crown sure looks messed up to me. If a cleaning rod can scratch a crown and affect accuracy, that thing has already sacrificed its best accuracy. Never saw one like that before.
 
With the better pic's from bd, it does show not being a even cut all the way around it. Send her back.
 
Yours is not the first that has been shown on various forums. It happens.

Them thar bullets is liable to come out of that barrel slanchwise!!
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You already have doubts and it will probably bug you as long as you have the gun if you don't get it fixed.

S&W will probably take good care of you.
 
Well I got an email back from S&W with return instructions. Tomorrow morning I am shipping the gun back to be worked on. They are going to pay for the shipping, which is really cool.

If I happen to ship something of high value like this, I always insure for the price I originally bought it for. Do you think S&W will have a problem with this additional shipping cost?
 
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