When saying "Locks Up Tight"

[DaveB57]

When you guys describe that a revolver locks up tight, do you mean absolutely NO MOVEMENT? I've heard "like it's welded" & "like a safe"...I bought a great little 66-2 that was described as "locks up tight" & there is a tick of movement...Can one of the experts re-hash the test method...& the movement that is OK (rotational or end to end). Thanks.

[DCWilson]

When I use the phrase, I mean that I cannot rotate the cylinder by any perceptible amount when the revolver is cocked. I exclude endplay from my definition. Some guns are looser than others front to back, but still feel completely dogged down in terms of cylinder rotation.

I only have one S&W that I would say "locks up tight" -- a 649 that I got over a year ago. All my other Smiths have some play in them. That's not a worry with Smiths, which are a little looser in this regard than, say, most Colts. I think of S&W guns as being "loose within tolerance."

[stevieboy]

Here's how to check the lockup on a revolver. Cock the hammer. Then, with the trigger pulled all the way back, slowly and manually depress the hammer by keeping thumb pressure on it as you lower it (it goes without saying that the gun must not be loaded when you do this!!!!). Keep holding the trigger in the rearward position and see if the cylinder moves back and forth. Repeat with each chamber (they can vary).

Almost all revolvers other than Colts will show a little front-back play when you perform that test. A few millimeters of play is normal, no big deal whatsoever. A lot of back and forth movement is a different story.

Colts, I understand, employ a system that locks them up absolutely tightly when everything's working. I've never checked out a Colt, so that's information that I'll leave to others to verify.

I find it very rare to have a revolver with absolutely no cylinder play. I presently own four Smith and Wesson revolvers. One, a 1993 vintage 617, locks up absolutely without any play. The other three, a 1971 model 66, a 1988 model 27, and a 2006 model 686, all show a small amount of back and forth movement. All of them, however, are extremely accurate and none of them display the slightest timing problems (no lead is shaved off when the bullet enters the forcing cone).

[DaveB57]

Originally Posted by stevieboy

none of them display the slightest timing problems (no lead is shaved off when the bullet enters the forcing cone).

You can actually see lead shaving residue? & that's referred to as bad timing?

[84CJ]

A few millimeters of play is normal,A few mimmimeters is about 1/8 inch ?

[KurtC]

Yes, you can see lead or copper shavings on the edge of the forcing cone. It doesn't always mean bad timing, but it is one of the causes. Splatter on the forcing cone or cylinder face is also a bad sign.

You can have a cylinder that locks up like a vault, literally, and still have the chamber throats not perfectly in line with the barrel. That is why a slight cylinder play is preferred by many.

If you cock the hammer, pull the trigger to the rear (while holding the hammer) and need to turn the cylinder for the bolt to lock up, then you have a textbook example of bad timing.

[Bullseye Smith]

With the gun not cocked and hammer down you should be able to move the cylinder back and forth .001 or .002 of a inch. The cylinder should be able to move (or rock) on the yoke about the same or little more. Now cock the gun and it should be tight without any movement when cocked. If it does move a very little means the gun could have been shot alot. When it doesn't move is what you are asking about - LOCKS UP TIGHT .

[Slyk54]

I am not nearly as knowledgeable as some of the responders, but I can add that I have seen very few S&W revolvers over the past 30 + years that have absolutely no movement at all...what I think others mean with the phrase "welded to the frame". I have handled one Ruger Security Six that was that solid, and the seller wanted in excess of $500 for it. My understanding is that movement of the cylinder on lock-up from front to back is worse than side to side, if that makes sense.

[stiab]

I''ve got several S&W, and none of them lock up perfectly tight, and the only one that even comes close is a 625 MG. I have two Colts, and both of them lock up with no movement. I'm not an expert on these matters, but there is some good discussion on the difference between Colts and S&W on the Python -vs- Model 27 threads on this forum.

[Revolver King]

I have owned more S&W revolvers then I can count and I have only one that had absolutely no play when locked and that was a 686 SSR, all of the rest had a slight bit of play even the new ones.