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09-02-2009, 06:12 PM
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Dadgum surface rust!
*sigh* Now I remember why I hate blue steel guns!
I was giving my "new" 3 inch model 13-3 a good scrubbing last night and, with the aid of a flashlight, I discovered three things about it.
1. My barrel is plum.
2. I could see surface rust in several areas...especially on the side plate area.
3. The sideplate seems to be rusted in place and will not come off!
So...first of all, I know there's nothing that can be done about my plum barrel. Unless I send it in for a complete re-blue, I'm just gonna hafta love it like it is...right?
Next...what's the best thing to use on the surface rust and what should I use to restore this little guy to a deep, glossy blue finish it wore many, many years ago.
And finally, is there any way to get the sideplate off besides the usual pounding on the left side of the grip/frame with a hard plastic/wood/brass bludgeon of some sort? I pounded like hell on the damned thing and it STILL wouldn't budge!
Dadgum blue steel...Stainless is just SSSOOOO much easier to maintain!
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09-02-2009, 06:15 PM
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Tap on the right side of the grip frame. It may come loose.
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09-02-2009, 06:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joni_Lynn
Tap on the right side of the grip frame. It may come loose.
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Good idea!
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09-02-2009, 07:45 PM
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Try soaking in Corrosion X for several hours or longer then gently wiping off with paper towel first. If that doesn't get it all, soak in Corrosion X again them rub down with copper wool (chore boy scrubber) but rub gently.
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09-02-2009, 08:57 PM
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Put Kroil on the sideplate seam and let it soak in. Then rap on the right side of the grip frame and it should pop right off. Kroil will also remove your surface rust as well. Just use a cotton patch soaked in it.
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09-02-2009, 08:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBerens
Put Kroil on the sideplate seam and let it soak in. Then rap on the right side of the grip frame and it should pop right off. Kroil will also remove your surface rust as well. Just use a cotton patch soaked in it.
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I don't reckon I've ever used Kroil.
Uh...what is it?
Keep in mind, you can not see this rust with simple lighting. I didn't see it until I used a flashlight.
ETA: I Googled it. You can't get this stuff at your local Wal-Mart, can you? Maybe my gun shop will have some.
It won't hurt the bluing...will it?
Last edited by Glock 'em down; 09-02-2009 at 09:03 PM.
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09-02-2009, 09:13 PM
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The oil that Kreeps? I go through a gallon a year. Buy it direct from Kano's website and it's cheap. Penetrates better than most anything. After cleaning your bore with your favorite solvent, run a patch soaked in Kroil. You'll get more dirt.
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09-02-2009, 09:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pinkymingeo
The oil that Kreeps? I go through a gallon a year. Buy it direct from Kano's website and it's cheap. Penetrates better than most anything. After cleaning your bore with your favorite solvent, run a patch soaked in Kroil. You'll get more dirt.
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Is Kroil better than WD-40 for loosening rusted things?
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09-02-2009, 09:16 PM
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Glock, You can put it down in good old KO oil out of your heater and let it soak over night. Then the side plate should pop off. While you are at it after the soak, put some Remington oil on the rust area and under a bright light go over it with steel wool. 4 or 5 - 0 will do the best, and go easy on it, very little preasure. The rust should come off easy. Take your time and treat it with kit gloves .
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09-02-2009, 09:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glock 'em down
Is Kroil better than WD-40 for loosening rusted things?
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It penetrates better than anything I've tried.
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09-02-2009, 09:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jack the toad
It penetrates better than anything I've tried.
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You're a fellow Okie, do you just order yours direct? Or is there someplace here in Oklahoma where you can buy it? Is it sold exclusively in gun shops or can you find it in hardware stores, Lowe's, Home Depot as well?
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09-02-2009, 10:08 PM
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Kroil works great, I use it with good ol' hoppes #9 for most of my bore cleaning. I've noticed a difference on how clean it gets a barrel compared to just using a solvent, and it seems like the barrel is easier to get clean on subsequent cleanings... I know a lot of competitive .22 rifle shooters that use it, as well.
You can order it directly through their website, or through Midway-USA. I've not seen it in any of the 'big box' stores, or even local gun shops. Machinists also use it, so you may find it at a supply house that serves machine shops...
As others have said, go easy when using any steel wool on blueing. The copper-wool is really a better option, but still go easy. Blue guns are not bad if keep up with the maintenance. I like my SS guns, but in my opinion, there's just nothing like a nice blued gun.
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09-03-2009, 09:04 AM
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Quick note before you start buffing the finish off that gun. Blueing IS rust, controlled rust. If you look at any blued gun, up close with a flashlight, for some reason, alot of the time it will show a very definite brown tint to the blueing. If you can't see rust under natural light, I don't think its rusted.
Magic gun soaking/cleaning solution formula:
In a .50 cal ammo can mix 50% WD40 and 50% Kerosene. Add a cup or two of Marvel Mystery Oil. Soak, scrub and drip dry or, blow out with compressed air. I've had a can of that around for years, works like a charm and, cheap.
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09-03-2009, 09:13 AM
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Rust
the kroil works well,but will burn your eyes becareful.
i use bronze wool to remove surface rust with any type oil on the wool, it will not scratch blue like steel wool will. brownell's sells it.
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09-03-2009, 06:53 PM
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Groo here
If you want use K-1 to soak in.
Old trick my smith showed me.
Take off grips and soak for 2-3 days in warm area.
Drip dry and try-great for years of dirt and junk in old revolvers.
"cheap trigger job"
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09-03-2009, 07:03 PM
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Excellent ideas guys and gals. Keep 'em coming.
Also...what is the best stuff to use to get this little feller's finish to shine up nice and purdy like it used to.
There's not a ton of holster wear on it...a typical tad around the muzzle and one little spot on the cylinder, but it's just kinda dull as of right now.
I need some kind of metal polish that won't hurt or (gasp! God forbid!) take off any bluing.
What do you suggest?
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09-03-2009, 07:10 PM
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Alot of folks recommend Renaisance Wax for polishing a blued firearm. I have not tried it yet but have some coming from Brownells.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=2...LEANER__POLISH
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Last edited by ladder13; 09-03-2009 at 07:13 PM.
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09-04-2009, 12:41 AM
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Use a wooden or plastic dowel to pry the sideplate off from the right side, after removing grips and mainspring.
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09-04-2009, 02:29 AM
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I use Flitz to remove surface rust .Doesn't everybody ? No abrasive , it will not remove factory bluing . All my blue guns look like new , but when you clean any blue gun for its first time the amount of rust on the cloth will scare you to death . Specially when hunting around salt water .
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09-04-2009, 07:03 PM
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Love blue guns! I'm another happy Kroil user. Great for safe surface rust removal with judicious application of bronze (never steel) wool or brushes. Just the thing for the newly found "oldie" firearm that needs a bit of attention.
Been using RIG for rust prevention since the late 1970s. It has never let me down, even for wet weather waterfowling, and I only use blued guns. Whether it is after hunting or caring for one's concealed carry handgun, a quick wipe down at day's end with a RIG impregnated rag gives perfect protection.
Stuff's been hard to find lately as it had been discontinued however I've heard that it's being marketed again. Old fashioned, but it's been tested and found to work as well as the best of the "high-tech" wonder remedies.
Of course a firearm that receives a thorough dousing requires more care.
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09-05-2009, 10:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glock 'em down
You're a fellow Okie, do you just order yours direct? Or is there someplace here in Oklahoma where you can buy it? Is it sold exclusively in gun shops or can you find it in hardware stores, Lowe's, Home Depot as well?
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Hello fellow okie.
Some auto parts stores may carry it.
I have an ample supply from where I used to work and no, I didn't steal it. My employer was ok with me taking it home.
Brownells carrys it. I haven't tried the new sili-kroil.
BROWNELLS : Brownells Search : Search Results for "kroil" - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools
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09-05-2009, 05:12 PM
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If the Kroil doesn't do it, I have one other suggestion but it will require some good heavy leather gloves. Take the grips off the gun and bake it in a 200 degree oven for about an hour. Then will it's still hot, try tapping the sideplate loose. The reason why this may work is very simple, metal expands when heated and you may get it to expand enough to free up the side plate. BTW, if you don't have a plastic insert on the front sight, you can go as high as 400 degrees but it may effect the blueing color by some small degree and you'll probably need some true welders gloves to handle it.
Last edited by scooter123; 09-05-2009 at 05:15 PM.
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09-05-2009, 05:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by borntoraisehogs
I use Flitz to remove surface rust .Doesn't everybody ? No abrasive , it will not remove factory bluing . All my blue guns look like new , but when you clean any blue gun for its first time the amount of rust on the cloth will scare you to death . Specially when hunting around salt water .
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A couple of points I have found. First off, Flitz is abrasive. I have used it for years on my badge and, after 15 years, the badge looks like a river rock. all the high points are worn down. I switched to Mothers Billet polish. MUCH less abrasive than Flitz ot Semichrome. I have not used it on a blued gun, so, you are on your own if you want to try it.
I hear from people all the time about how they polished thier blue or stainless gun with Flitz and couldn't believe all the dirt and rust that came off...the rag just kept turning brown or black...
That is not rust and dirt...it metal, or the finish coming off. It comes out black because the metal polish abrades it and dissolves it into solution as it takes it off, thats why a satin stainless gun looks like nickel after a while.
If you don't believe me, take a gold ring. Gold does not normally tarnish except under strong acids...Polish the heck out of it with Flitz and a T-shirt...The ring will get shiney...tiny scratches will disappear and the rag will turn black. The scratches are going away because your are removing the surrounding metal...Thats what is now on the rag.
Last edited by Sgt 127; 09-05-2009 at 06:42 PM.
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09-07-2009, 12:43 PM
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Well, I finally got the side plate off this little feller. Luckily, no rust. It was just tight. Obviously it had never been off before.
Anyway, all the guts were a little dry, so I lubed 'em up pretty good, dry fired it about a thousand times and gave it a good rub down with a soft cotton diaper.
The bluing is very cloudy. Not just the side plate, but the entire revolver! It doesn't appear to have been reblued, that I can tell. What will "uncloud" the bluing?
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09-08-2009, 01:48 AM
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Cloudy bluing? Hmmm... You might try that wax. I use Johnson's Paste Wax on mine and it works real good. Let it dry completely before you wipe it off and degrease it real good first.
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09-09-2009, 12:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andyo5
Use a wooden or plastic dowel to pry the sideplate off from the right side, after removing grips and mainspring.
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WHOOP WHOOP WHOOP DOWEL ALERT DOWEL ALERT DOWEL ALERT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Take cover take cover
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09-09-2009, 09:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CAJUNLAWYER
WHOOP WHOOP WHOOP DOWEL ALERT DOWEL ALERT DOWEL ALERT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Take cover take cover
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Now that there's funny, I don't care who you are.
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09-09-2009, 10:17 PM
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Like you, I purchased a Smith & Wesson Model 34 that looked perfect in regular light. That night at home, the power went out, so I just happened to shine over it with my flashlight on the dining room table.......THERE IT WAS.....a two tone gun. Looked like blue steel and anodized aluminum combo!
I have since ALWAYS carried a flashlight/bore light combo whenever I look for a new purchase.
The color differential harms nothing but there's just something about it that irritates me.
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