Cylinder loose after cyl stop engages

[DUNTOV]

I have a model 64-5 that the cyl has some play after the stop locks in.
Is wear usually in the frame slot, or can cyl. stop replacement usually correct this? (not bad enough to cause bullet shavings)

[824tsv]

Have a look at the link, Post#4. This is what I've always been told and have read. If it's not broke......
GAP QUESTION

[Muss Muggins]

Do you mean that when you pull the hammer back for single action firing, and the hammer locks back, the cylinder still has to rotate a little further to lock up?

[murphydog]

What you describe is normal for an S & W if it is slight. Brand C revolvers should lock up with no play with the trigger pulled.

[DUNTOV]

Originally Posted by Muss Muggins

Do you mean that when you pull the hammer back for single action firing, and the hammer locks back, the cylinder still has to rotate a little further to lock up?

No, timing is fine, with the cyl stop locked in, hammer fired, the cyl has slight movement left-right, and it appears that it is slack between the lock & frame.
With the cyl open I can wiggle the lock slightly left-right.

[Muss Muggins]

Originally Posted by DUNTOV

No, timing is fine, with the cyl stop locked in, hammer fired, the cyl has slight movement left-right, and it appears that it is slack between the lock & frame.
With the cyl open I can wiggle he lock slightly left-right.

It's all good then. There's got to be a little slack (the cylinder stop has to be a little smaller than the cylinder notches) there or the cylinder stop would never be able to engage . . .

[DUNTOV]

Originally Posted by Muss Muggins

It's all good then. There's got to be a little slack (the cylinder stop has to be a little smaller than the cylinder notches) there or the cylinder stop would never be able to engage . . .

I have been spoiled by several J frames I have that lock up like a vault with no movement until the trigger is released.

[BigBill]

When the hammer is cocked you should feel play in the cylinder lock up. When the trigger is pulled and held there should be no play in the lock up.

[BigBill]

Originally Posted by BigBill

When the hammer is cocked you should feel play in the cylinder lock up. When the trigger is pulled and held there should be no play in the lock up.

This is were the colts have it down there lockup is much tighter.
On the other hand I think the lockup is a myth. I've see the revolvers with less pressure on the lockup out shoot the tighter guns.

[grip frame]

Originally Posted by BigBill

When the hammer is cocked you should feel play in the cylinder lock up. When the trigger is pulled and held there should be no play in the lock up.

Sorry but this is simply not true. There is always the possibility of a little play.

Much of this play depends on how everything was fitted when the revolver was built (ratchets/hand and timing in particular).

[Muss Muggins]

Originally Posted by grip frame

Much of this play depends on how everything was fitted when the revolver was built (ratchets/hand and timing in particular).

No. Any movement back and forth when the cylinder stop is engaged is solely due to the difference between the width of the cylinder stop and the width of the cylinder notch(es). Both can get worn over time, and this rarely becomes an issue. More often than not (like 99.9% of the time), it is the cylinder stop which should be replaced. If the cylinder stop does not engage the cylinder notch(es) and the cylinder can be rotated by hand until the stop engages, then the revolver is not carrying up, and the ratchets and hand deserve some attention.

[scooter123]

The reason there is some play in the lockup is to insure that in a Combat Environment (say after being dropped in a muddy trench) the revolver will still function properly. It's one reason that most of the models of the S&W revolver is named with some reference to Combat, such as Combat Masterpiece or Military & Police.

My advice is if it's not shaving lead then don't to anything except enjoy shooting your revolver with the knowledge that if you drop it in sand, mud, or water about all you have to do is a quick wipe at most to get in working.

BTW, I have a model 620 that isn't "tight as a bank vault" by anyone's measure and I have personally shot sub 3/4 inch groups at 50 YARDS with it from a rest with a 1.75 power handgun scope. IMO you really do NOT need a tight lockup for exceptional accuracy, what really helps for accuracy is a Tensioned Barrel design, good optics, and many hours working on recoil management skills and trigger skills. It took me six solid weeks of practicing 2 times per week to get to the point where I could shoot to this level.

[grip frame]

Originally Posted by Muss Muggins

No. Any movement back and forth when the cylinder stop is engaged is solely due to the difference between the width of the cylinder stop and the width of the cylinder notch(es). Both can get worn over time, and this rarely becomes an issue. More often than not (like 99.9% of the time), it is the cylinder stop which should be replaced. If the cylinder stop does not engage the cylinder notch(es) and the cylinder can be rotated by hand until the stop engages, then the revolver is not carrying up, and the ratchets and hand deserve some attention.

Yes what you say is true but I am talking about the function of the hand against the ratchets/how tight the side of the hand is against the ratchets. Tightness here will force the cylinder tight against the cylinder stop with the hammer cocked.

Most times when an oversize hand is installed to fix carry up issues it also will cause more solid lockup with the hammer cocked.

[Muss Muggins]

A very minor consideration, and not part of the armorer revolver function tests . . .

Originally Posted by grip frame

Yes what you say is true but I am talking about the function of the hand against the ratchets/how tight the side of the hand is against the ratchets. Tightness here will force the cylinder tight against the cylinder stop with the hammer cocked.

Most times when an oversize hand is installed to fix carry up issues it also will cause more solid lockup with the hammer cocked.

[Groo01]

Groo here
I have a 657 3in that was built when S&W was owned by that englishman.
The notch in the frame was oversized causing some slop.
The fix was to install an oversized cylinder stop.
Not a big deal.
PS, Shoot it ,if accurate, it ain't broke ETC ETC ETC.