Hi All,

I recently picked up a model 19 for bullseye shooting which I use lead wadcutters. What's a good solvent for cleaning lead from the cylinder and the barrel? I'm using Hoppes #9 right now but I saw a product called Shooter's Choice lead remover at Brownells website. Is this stuff ok to use on blued guns? Should I be usig something else?

Thanks for any help.

gmcrigger

Corrosion-X and choreboy pads (copper scrub pad) work great for the barrel. A soft brass brush and corrosion-X or breakfree keep the cylinder clean.


Careful on overcleaning the face of the cylinder, the blueing will rub off given enough cleaning.

In my experience, a dry bore brush will remove most lead deposits, followed by normal cleaning procedures (solvents, etc). A bronze brush will clean the cylinder face and frame recesses, also used dry.

Extremely heavy lead build-up responds well to a worn bore brush wrapped with 0000-grade steel wool, which cuts the lead without any damage to the revolver (can be used on blued steel without damaging the bluing), also followed by normal cleaning.

The key is to use the bore brush dry as the first step in cleaning. Any solvents present will act as a lubricant, while what we want is friction.

I've fired tens of thousands of lead bullet loads in my Model 19, and have used this cleaning procedure for over 30 years. No damage, and the revolver remains as good as new.

__________________
Life of the party until 8:00PM

Thanks for the advice. I've been cleaning my pistols pretty much as your describing. I've been using hoppes #9 and it's been doing the job fine.The Hoppes Copper solvent will do just fine .

Check out the Lewis Lead Remover from Brownells. Very little better for removing lead deposits.

The 1970 LAPD recruit training class on the Introduction to cleaning of the S&W .38 revolver, 101, stressed the following:
1. Remove the cylinder and yoke from the revolver. (Return the yoke retention screw to the frame to prevent its loss.)
2. In a small jar, soak the cylinder and yoke overnight in Hoppe’s #9.
3. Coat the inside of the barrel, frame and outside of the barrel throat with hope’s #9 and let set overnight.
4. Mash a bronze, 12 gauge shotgun bore brush in a vise for use in cleaning the face of the cylinder, barrel throat and recesses of the frame. (Granted there are many other brushes available on the market but this particular brush provided a greater concentration of bristles on the work surface than anything available at that time.)(Removal of the cylinder and yoke facilitate a secure hold of the cylinder, and reduce the chance of damaging the blueing on other parts of the gun during cleaning of the cylinder face.)
5. Insert the yoke into the cylinder before using the bronze brush on the cylinder face, to prevent broken bristles from getting inside the cylinder where they would prevent the cylinder from turning freely and would be difficult to remove.)
6. Use the bronze brush to clean burnt powder and lead deposits from the cylinder face, barrel throat and recesses of the frame. (Over time this method is guaranteed to remove the bluing from the face of the cylinder and any other area it is employed.)(The loss of blueing was acceptable, residual lead deposits were not.)
7. Never attempt to use a drill motor to turn a bore brush for cleaning the cylinder chambers.

The Lewis Lead Remover is the only way to clean lead from the forcing cone, which needs to be done whenever shooting large amounts of lead bullets. It has a tapered cone bushing, with a brass screen, that matches the angle of the forcing cone and will remove the lead buildup from that area.

For cleaning cylinders, the Lewis Lead Remover will also work, but a faster method is to us an old bore brush with a few strands of stainless steel steel wool wrapped around it. Just make sure it's real stainless steel, and not nickel plated steel wool. The copper wool for cleaning pots and pans will also work, but again make sure it's copper and not plated steel. I put the stainless wrapped brush in a cordless drill and run it on slow speed for each cylinder. It works like a champ.

Hope this helps.

Fred

I made a simple tool that has been helpful in revolver cleaning chores especially after shooting a lot of lead/aloxed bullets.

Took a brass, slotted patch jag and mashed the end of with a ball peen hammer. Then took a file and shaped the tip into a fairly sharp, flat blade or scrapper. Then attached it to a handy size piece of old cleaning rod.

It's quite handy for removing the lead splatter around the top strap near the barrel, the sticky goo that builds up in the corner of the top strap & recoil plate and for scrapping the lead build up off the leading cylinder edges. Doesn't harm the bluing and the tip can be easily resharpened or reshaped as needed.

For the bore, the copper chore boy works well but I prefer the Lewis Lead Remover tool.

Been there, done that.

Why not, I've been doing that for ages with no ill effects noted.

I agree on the Lewis lead remover

__________________
20 years Mil, 18 yrs Sac P.D.

I have no doubt that there are those among us who are sufficiently self disciplined to remain focused and never permit the drill chuck or other fast moving metal from damaging some part of the gun, but the armor’s boo boo display is full of examples of attention deficit while spinning bore brushes in cylinder chambers. After seeing the result very early on, I have never tried it.

I don't know about current practice but when I was on the PD they used to put the qualification ammo out to bid. The soft lead would require a lengthy cleaning. I found that wiping the piece down inside & out with Breakfree prior to shooting made most of the grime wipe off. By the next year, the armorer was buying Breakfree by the gallon & putting into pump sprayer.
Keep it off the grips.
Russell