When changing barrels, you may have to cut the barrel shoulder and the end of the ejector rod shroud back a full turn, then shorten the end of the barrel to get the proper barrel/cylinder gap. All S&W barrel threads are 36 TPI. I just replaced a 6 inch barrel on my 686 with a 4 inch one, and I had to set up the barrel in my lathe to turn the shoulder/shroud back enough to get good lockup when the barrel is tightened. I then had to cut the end of the barrel to get my B/C gap where I wanted it, and ended up with a .003" gap. I then re-cut the forcing cone to get the correct diameter. I have a good set of nylon barrel blocks for the S&W's, and a good frame wrench too. I also have Brownell's tools for cutting the forcing cones and the gauges to measure them.
I have changed several barrels on S&W's over the years and have had no problems doing so.
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