Hey everyone, I've been thinking about installing a set of the Wolff spring set for my K frame Model 10 revolver. I understand that the mainspring is fairly simple to install, but that the trigger return spring is more difficult. What I would like to know is if I will get a significant improvement in the trigger pull by simply installing a reduced power mainspring, or if it's really necessary to install both. Thanks a lot.

Hi,
This weekend I placed a #14 trigger return spring in my 686 and a #13 in my 617. Then I shot them both.
On both a wonderfully triggerpul. The 686 went from 1780 grams to 1360 (about 62 ounces to 48)
and the 617 from 1770 to 1250 grams. (62 ounces to 44)
It is a huge improvement that single spring.

The main springs I did not place since I did not have them but I know that lighter main spring can cause misfires. I shoot SA mainly and then the trigger return spring is all you need to replace. When you shoot DA and want it very light you might replace both.

I would install the standard weight Wolf mainspring, its design will smooth the pull up a bit, and you still get reliable ignition. Replace the rebound spring with a 13# or 14#. That should give you a decent trigger, that will also set off even slightly hard primers. the light weight Wolf main spring may or may not give good ignition with all primers.

Thanks for the advice guys

I know I have posted this answer before, but I feel strongly about this, so here goes again. For guns reserved for TARGET ONLY, go ahead and change the springs, tune, etc. But for a CARRY GUN, all I like to do is shoot about 500 rounds first to smooth out the action, completely disassemble, thoroughly clean, gently remove any burrs that have not smoothed out by firing, lightly lubricate with Remoil, reassemble and test fire. I have not yet seen a S & W revolver that I have designated a carry gun with a trigger pull so rough and tough that it needed any major work (unless of course there was a defect in the gun or a part itself). Usually just use and practice do more to smooth the gun out than anything else. When friends ask me to "tune up" a revolver for them, I usually tell them to fire 500 round and if that hasn't done the trick, come back & see me then.

Regards,
chief38

I was big on Wolf Springs until I had one go soft fairly quick. I mean within 500 rounds.
The #13 lb rebound spring weakened to the point the trigger was super spongy on return.
I've got them on several J frames so I'm watching them fairly close as to whether they start getting weak also.

If you get the rebound spring tool, it's not too difficult to install a ligher spring. Without that tool, I cannot concieve of even making the attempt. I'm sure that someone has managed to do it, but I won't even think about it.

I purchased a "kit" of rebound springs and have experimented with the effect it of these on the action. I started out with a 12 lbs. rebound spring in both my 617 and 610 revolvers. While both guns performed perfectly during a function test, on the first range outing the 610 failed to reset the trigger twice in 48 rounds sent downrange in double action. Oddly enough, the 617 has been flawless with the 12 lbs. rebound spring for at least 300 rounds of shooting with a 60/40 mix of DA and SA fire. As for why, it may be an effect of recoil or the lockwork on the 617 is just a tick freer running. Considering I purchaed the 617 used and it was a target gun for it's previous owner, I suspect that it's a bit freer than my 610 which was purchased new and only has about 1200 rounds on it.

A lighter rebound spring also has a distinct effect on the Single Action trigger weight. With the 12 lbs. spring, the 617 breaks at a bit under 2 lbs, as did the 610 with the same spring. This is light enough that the only time I shoot the 617 in single action is when I am shooting from a rest. Because of the reset issues with the 610, I have installed a 14 lbs rebound spring in the 610 and it's been functionally perfect. It also took the SA trigger weight from a bit less than 2 lbs. to just a tick over 3 lbs. IMO, that's a perfect weight for a single action trigger and at some point I'll be replacing the 12 lbs. spring in the 617 with a 14 lbs rebound spring. Fact is that with the 12 lbs. spring, the SA trigger is light enough to make me cautious and I certainly wouldn't allow a new shooter to use it.

I've also experimented with the effect of the strain screw adjustment when combined with a lighter rebound spring. If you do both, you can easily get a DA pull as light as about 7 lbs. However, it's effect on reliability of fire can make the gun extremely fussy in regards to ammunition. At some point I plan on making up some 0.010 thick shim washers to go under the head of the strain screw so that I can test the effect in clearly defined increments.

Now, both my 617 and 610 are purely Range and Hunting guns, so playing around with the trigger doesn't come with much risk.

IMO, if your intending to use a revolver as a house gun, or for Carry, all you should do is install a 14 lbs. rebound spring and do a bit of light polishing on the rebound slide. That will give you a single action trigger in the 3 lbs. range and a double action trigger of about 8.5 lbs. That's a trigger that isn't at all difficult to master and it's close to what is common for S&W revolvers that have been well used, especially ones that have been "tuned" by a Police Armorer in their past history.

BTW, the impetus of my exploration of this was an ex PD model 67 that has a butter smooth trigger. Now my 610 has a trigger quite nearly as good, just need to lose about 1/2 lbs. on the DA trigger pull.

I just got done installing the reduced power mainspring and 14lb rebound springs in my 25 Classic and 620. I thought I had three mainsprings, but only two were around. Also replaced the rebound spring on my 25-13 Mountain Gun. My first time under the hood of a revolver. I am a regular detail stripper and tinkerer on 1911s. Had some interesting and embarrassing adventures.

I bought the rebound spring tool from Brownells. It took some practice, which means searching for springs, but worked as advertised.

The triggers are much nicer. MUCH NICER!

I run most my guns hard, lots of rounds down range, but generally reduced power reloads. I'll see how the reduced power springs hold up.

You can use a #10 torx screwdriver to replace the rebound spring. It works perfect.

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The kool-aid Sigma drinker

I have to agree and add a note of caution about replacement spring kits. The only spring problem I ever experienced was from a Trapper main spring in a M57 that broke in half in the middle of a silhouette match. I still use non-factory springs, but I don't have the same confidence in them that I did before that main spring broke. I would never use them in a gun used for defensive purposes.

Interesting

The head is slotted to fit around the pin retaining the rebound slide/spring. The tool is worth the money if you ever have to take out the rebound slide.

A small flat head screwdriver like one used to remove electrical outlet plates works great. i have removed and replaced 4-5 rebound springs this way. J frames and larger. You do not need a expensive tool. Just push it in, pry up a bit and out it comes. To replace push the spring in with the flat and push down with your other thumb.

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Still Running Against the Wind

I have used the flat screwdiver method and the rebound tool method.

The rebound tool is worth the money and easier to utilize for me.

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Have guns...will shoot'em.

Interesting

The rebound spring is put inside the rebound slide which is basically a small, hollow rectangle piece of metal. The rebound springs are the same for all the different guns.

You really do not need the tool, but if it makes life easier than go for it. I am going to change out my M-67 today and will take a picture if you want.

Look here. Post #3 the silver thing on the bottom behind the trigger is the slide and the spring inside with the post holding it in. All you are doing is lifting up the whole slide at the pin which will launch the spring into another time zone and then you stuff a different one back in.. Keep your hand over it and wear eye protection just in case.

And no, a bent coat hanger will not work it would just bend. I think money better spent would be Jerry Miculek Trigger Job and/or AGI diassembly DVD. With Miculek you get the whole dissasembly/reassembly as well as which areas to smooth. Both DVD's use a screw driver. Miculek advises a wide blade so as to not impale your hand. In a semi joking way.

Look here. scroll to post #3
FAQ's

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Still Running Against the Wind

Here are some pics. I changed out the main and rebound springs in a M 66 and M 67. As soon as you remove the rebound spring, set it aside on a piece of paper or a cup marked original. If you start opening the 3 springs that come in the kit, they are bound to get mixed up and then you will not know which is which. That is the screwdriver I use. Just cram the spring in there, I know that sounds crude but that's what you are doing. You're not gonna hurt anything, just keep your other hand and fingers away in case you slip.

The dark slide is MIM and the other is not.

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Still Running Against the Wind

Thanks, OCD1

I've taken dozens of rebound springs and slides out with just a small brass punch. It's harder to get out than get back in. I don't need the tool, it's not a job I do all the time, and the brass will never mar or nick anything inside the action.

I never saw a use for aftermarket rebound springs, I like a strong trigger reset and a firm, even DA pull. A trigger stop pin in the rebound spring was a more worthwhile add-on to the 10-14 I "worked" than the lighter rebound springs and lighter mainspring I tried. Overall my new philosophy is fast becoming that if nothing is broken, I leave the sideplates on and shoot them factory stock. Too many times I have ended up with a revolver with a soggy, spongy trigger pull, a sluggish reset and it never did shoot any better anyway. Lots of dry fire with snap caps will end up doing more than any trigger job or aftermarket spring, and you can do all that without even touching any specialized tool or screwdriver. I even have Ruger GP-100's and Service Sixes that have been worked silky smooth for the pure reason that the actions have been cycled 1,000's of times.

The lighter rebound spring didn't offer much if any improvement to my groups in SA or DA shooting, neither did the new mainspring. A few primers wouldn't pop on CCI ammo, so I took both out and put the stock springs back in. Not worth it, IMO, to fool with the trigger return and mainspring to shave 1/4" off my group at 25 yards, which most of us won't even notice anyway. My theory is all these springs do is make money for Wolff and Wilson Combat because they know people love to tinker and the $12 spring sets make people feel like they "worked" their gun and now it's slick and makes them a better shot......

I ended up having to do the opposite to many used Smiths I have bought over the years, taking out aftermarket springs and putting stock springs back in....... it seems 5 out of 10 Smiths I came into,had soft aftermarket rebound springs, trimmed strain screws, munged up mainsprings...........the search for the "perfect trigger pull" has messed up many perfectly good S&W's.

Either way, I have heard people have had good luck with extended firing pins when using lighter mainsprings, I still wouldn't trust them for anything but target work.

Back by popular request are the photos of the rebound spring. These got deleted when I cleaned up my Photo Bucket.

Basically you just need to use a screwdriver and "jam" it in the spring and lift up. Be careful it does not shoot out at you (wear safety glasses) To install is just the reverse but takes some wiggling. Just mash it in there and push down. You will not hurt it. While the rebound slide is out you can polish it on a flat surface with some 220 grit wet dry followed by 320, 400. Clean it with solvent, only do the bottom and the edge that touches the side of the frame. Put a drop of oil in the spring.

The mainspring, just loosen the strain screw and take it out. some hook right on others have a little swivel stirrup thing.(tech talk)

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Still Running Against the Wind