Smith & Wesson Forum

Advertise With Us Search
Go Back   Smith & Wesson Forum > Ammunition-Gunsmithing > S&W-Smithing

Notices

S&W-Smithing Maintenance, Repair, and Enhancement of Smith & Wesson and Other Firearms.


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 07-04-2010, 01:03 PM
ColColt's Avatar
ColColt ColColt is offline
Member
Oiling Trigger Mechanism Oiling Trigger Mechanism Oiling Trigger Mechanism Oiling Trigger Mechanism Oiling Trigger Mechanism  
Join Date: May 2010
Location: TN
Posts: 1,299
Likes: 27
Liked 284 Times in 131 Posts
Default Oiling Trigger Mechanism

I've never lubricated the trigger mechanism in my 4506 and wondered if this is feasible or desirable. The trigger felt a little "gritty" on take up the other day when I took it out for a spin and wondered if I shouldn't apply a bit of oil somewhere. Any suggestions as to if/where I should do this?
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 07-04-2010, 01:33 PM
ronnie gore ronnie gore is offline
Member
Oiling Trigger Mechanism Oiling Trigger Mechanism  
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: newnan,ga
Posts: 991
Likes: 13
Liked 508 Times in 188 Posts
Default lubrication

anythng that moves metal on metal needs lubing,especialy stainless as they will gall if not lubed.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 07-04-2010, 01:44 PM
H Richard's Avatar
H Richard H Richard is offline
US Veteran
Oiling Trigger Mechanism Oiling Trigger Mechanism Oiling Trigger Mechanism Oiling Trigger Mechanism Oiling Trigger Mechanism  
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: West Central IL
Posts: 22,819
Likes: 18,608
Liked 22,450 Times in 8,288 Posts
Default

I would recommend a teflon dry spray lube, so as when the carrier evaporates you have dry lube on it. Dirt is attracted to wet lube. Or, disassemble it and use some of the new snake oil type lubes. Don't over lube.
__________________
H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 07-04-2010, 08:01 PM
ColColt's Avatar
ColColt ColColt is offline
Member
Oiling Trigger Mechanism Oiling Trigger Mechanism Oiling Trigger Mechanism Oiling Trigger Mechanism Oiling Trigger Mechanism  
Join Date: May 2010
Location: TN
Posts: 1,299
Likes: 27
Liked 284 Times in 131 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ronnie gore View Post
anythng that moves metal on metal needs lubing,especialy stainless as they will gall if not lubed.
I've heard that term many times and still don't really know what it means but, I think a lube job of some sort is in order.

Quote:
Or, disassemble it and use some of the new snake oil type lubes. Don't over lube.
I'll have to watch a video of how to get to that degree of disassembly as I haven't taken it down that far yet. I know there's a YouTube for everything...probably even this.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 07-05-2010, 07:02 PM
Fastbolt's Avatar
Fastbolt Fastbolt is offline
Member
Oiling Trigger Mechanism Oiling Trigger Mechanism Oiling Trigger Mechanism Oiling Trigger Mechanism Oiling Trigger Mechanism  
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: CA Central Coast
Posts: 4,649
Likes: 920
Liked 6,624 Times in 2,202 Posts
Default

It's not generally necessary to lubricate the inner workings of the 3rd gen guns ... (with the disclaimer that some specific operating environments and conditions might result in specific recommendations being made by armorers or factory techs depending on mission applications)

Adding lubricants inside the frame can risk having it accumulate fouling, grit & whatnot with the potential of eventually accumulating into a sludge or goo that can interfere with normal operation and functioning. I've had to resolve more 'problems' resulting from excessive solvents & lubricants ending up places they needn't be and causing problems than I ever have actual 'gun' problems.

A case in point involves a fairly new (2-3 years old) 4566TSW which developed what was described as a failure of the hammer to remain cocked in single action. (Not good, obviously.) When the instructor who witnessed the events and user told me about the problem I looked at the gun. It was pretty much bone dry on the barrel & rails. That always makes me wonder how the rest of the gun is being maintained.

When I looked down inside the frame, though, it appeared grungy, wet & gooey (armorer term ). When I detail-stripped the gun I saw that some of the parts, like the sear, were gummed up and sticky. The sear spring appeared to be in good condition and as I cleaned off the sear nose, hammer and drawbar I couldn't see any visible damage. I suspected a cleanliness issue instead of a mechanical/breakage issue.

I noticed the firing pin channel, firing pin and firing pin spring were also wet, gooey & gummy. I'm surprised the user wasn't experiencing light strikes. I've had that happen a lot as well used (and poorly cleaned) guns accumulated ever increasing amounts of excessive liquid which would run into the firing pin channel and remain there when it couldn't run back out as easily as it ran in.

I gave the gun a good cleaning, lubricating the spots which required lubrication and leaving the rest of the gun clean and dry. The usual bench checks revealed normal function. I told the instructor and user to both go downrange and run a bunch of magazines (another armorer term) through the clean gun and tell me how it ran.

Surprise, surprise. The gun fed, fired & functioned exactly as designed and intended. The problem was gone.

Then I told the instructor and user to field strip the pistol and discussed the recommended manner of user level cleaning & lubrication, stressing the importance of NOT introducing excessive amounts of solvent and lubrication to places in the gun where it wasn't intended to go.

I'd like to say that this is an isolated occurrence, but that hasn't been my experience.

FWIW, the 'gritty' feeling often felt in a TDA trigger can cumulatively result from a number of things, really none of which are best resolved by just adding lubricant. The factory's Performance Center, or a skilled gunsmith familiar with S&W TDA pistols, can certainly work some wonders in cleaning up and refining 3rd gen guns.

The introduction of MIM hammers worked well in that respect, too, especially since the older machined hammers could have rounded surfaces of variable smoothness or roughness over which the sear nose would rub (in SA mode). I've seen some which made a shale outcropping look smooth by comparison.

A small drop of lubricant added to each side of the hammer where it rubs against the frame was added to the recommended lubrication spots between a couple of my earlier armorer classes for the 3rd gen guns, with the precaution not to use an excessive amount (which would run down and away from the sides of the hammer).

The use of different stainless alloys for different parts, as well as using carbon steel for different components and improvements in metallurgy, have resolved some of the concerns attributed to early stainless steel guns.

Naturally, not being there to look at your particular 4506 means I can't reasonably have any idea of what's happening with your gun, and I certainly don't claim to know, but those are just some general thoughts.

I'm certainly not a factory tech or a licensed gunsmith, but I paid a little attention during the 4 armorer classes I attended for the 3rd gen guns. I even took some notes.

If we lived close to each other I'd offer to inspect at your gun as a courtesy. Sorry.
__________________
Ret LE Firearms inst & armorer
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 07-05-2010, 07:20 PM
ColColt's Avatar
ColColt ColColt is offline
Member
Oiling Trigger Mechanism Oiling Trigger Mechanism Oiling Trigger Mechanism Oiling Trigger Mechanism Oiling Trigger Mechanism  
Join Date: May 2010
Location: TN
Posts: 1,299
Likes: 27
Liked 284 Times in 131 Posts
Default

I've seen major problems with folks who judiciously use Hoppe's and then oil around the firing pin hole. I'm very careful about that. I put no oil in around or close to it...not even the extractor. All it does is good a good cleaning with a pipe cleaner and a very little of Hoppe's to get the carbon off(under the extractor and top).

Maybe I'll try using a can of air to blow out the trigger bar and mechanism to see if that helps in that I've never had it in an environment conducive to sand storms, beach, and of course, it's never been dropped on the ground. I'll try the air to see if that helps...maybe a touch of powdered graphite would help but I'm even hesitant about that.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
4506, 4566, extractor, fouling, gunsmith, performance center


Posting Rules
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
WTS - M&P 10 OEM Trigger Mechanism / Parts Tedtf Accessories/Misc - For Sale or Trade 0 10-03-2015 05:06 PM
Who lubricates the M&P Trigger mechanism? grayi6 Smith & Wesson M&P Pistols 13 09-10-2012 09:17 PM
M&P Pistol Mechanism wourmman Smith & Wesson M&P Pistols 4 11-08-2011 12:45 PM
New 642 oiling LadyShooter1 S&W Revolvers: 1980 to the Present 10 12-29-2010 12:56 AM
442 oiling keng S&W Revolvers: 1980 to the Present 1 12-23-2009 10:42 PM

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3
smith-wessonforum.com tested by Norton Internet Security smith-wessonforum.com tested by McAfee Internet Security

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:51 AM.


Smith-WessonForum.com is not affiliated with Smith & Wesson Holding Corporation (NASDAQ Global Select: SWHC)