I have never used this product.

Is Renaissance wax primarily for pistols, and/or rifles, that are kept in the safe and taken out and handled occasionally?
Or,
Is it also good for the ones that are taken out and shot regularly, and then cleaned? Does Hoppes #9 strip it off the gun?

Most all my pistols get shot on a regular basis, thought a few do spend most of their time resting in the safe. I don't want to wax down a pistol, then have the wax stripped off in a few days when I shoot, then clean it.

A light coat of Ren Wax on my Kimber Aegis II carry pistol has eliminated finger prints and also protects the finish from the effects of perspiration in the summer. Obviously it protects and preserves the finish on guns in the safe but also helps with those that are handled/shot a lot.

I hope that helps,

Frank

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sona si latine loqueris .

This is a great wax and the label says it's for all metal surfaces. I have used it on some of my guns and it works great.

I usually use it on guns that I don't shoot too often. I don't know if Hoppe's will strip it off, but I don't know why it wouldn't.

I like to wax guns that I use outdoors as rain will just bead up and fall off. I'm pretty sure most solvents will cut through it and you will need to re-wax. I don't always wax my range guns which are used often. But when put up in the safe, they get a coat of wax.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

I use it on my daily carry 642 and the finish looks like new after almost 2 years.

Waxing a gun is like waxing your car. You don't need to rewax it every time you take it out as long as you don't get over zealous with the Hoppe's. The wax is mainly used to protect the exterior surfaces of the gun and shouldn't be an issue with regular cleaning.

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James Redfield
LM #497

Where is the best place to find Renaissance? Any major retailers or do I need to find a specialty shop or get online?

Home Depot is supposed to carry it but I have never been able to find it there. On line seems to be the best and the best price depends on if you want a 60ml or 200ml jar. 200ml will probably last a lifetime.

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Doug

If you have a "Woodcraft" store nearby, they carry it as well.

I take my grips off and wax the frame under them and the insides of my grips too.

Dennis Blaine - Cutlery Specialties
6819 S.E. Sleepy Hollow Lane
Stuart, Florida 34997- 4757

Phone# 772-219-0436
Fax# 772-219-7674
(USA-orders only) Phone1-800-229-5530
ATTENTION DEALERS - RETAILERS - MANUFACTURERSWholesale price list available upon request.
Email: [email protected]
Business hours Mon - Sat 9-9 EST Sun 10-6

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James Redfield
LM #497

Since using Renn wax, I don't clean with Hoppe's any longer, I dry clean. Works for me!
This wax is usable on any or all parts of your gun, metal wood, plastic. It is really good stuff, though a little pricey.
I use it on stainless steel as well without any issues, it doesn't make them shiny, just preserved.
I also use clear carnuaba wax on many of my guns, it's much less expensive and seems to do the same basic job that Renn wax does.
My 2¢ anyway.

guns, antiques, wood, metal, this stuff is great.

/c

Brownells carries it, I am going to order a can.

I bought mine from Midway. I also bought a little bottle of Prelim, which is made by the same company and is a light cleaner.

I use Mother's mag on stainless, and Mothers Car wax with carnuaba in it on the blue guns. A good old tooth brush is the best way to put it on. Oil Sucks up water better than most rags, so why put it on a gun to have it rust in the safe. Wax seals it right up and makes it look nice.

Harrison - Mike Blair at Restorer Supplies is where I purchase mine, and Mike is very knowledgeable about its use. His price seems to be lower than most as well. 200 ml for 25.95 + 2. shipping in US. Go to his web site restorersupplies.com. I've used this product for years on all my firearms with nickel, blue and CCH finishes, including exotic wood grips, ivory, bone, etc. Also great leather preserver/restorer. Museums use it exclusively on valuable antique art, antique furniture, antique firearms, leather, etc. In my opinion there's nothing better.
Shadow SD

I even put a coat of Ren wax on my presentation cases and blue boxes....yep, on the cardboard boxes. Protects and spruces up anything.
Here is one example of a waxed nickel gun, brilliant shine!

Has anyone used this wax on the matte finished or bead blasted blue finish usually found along the top of the barrel? What effect did it have? I am afraid it will have a negative impact on sight glare. Thanks for all your comments.

I use it on all type of finishes. Great stuff.

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SWCA #2601

I am 58 years old, and for blue finishes, it is the most useful item for polishing and protecting the finish that I have ever seen. I just bought another 200ml can. Great for the grips & presentation case as well. Go online sometime and read the history and makeup of this product
DLB

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Be Kind! John 3:16,14:27

I have a problem when using Ren Wax that I'm hoping someone can help with. When I wax a blued gun, when dry the wax forms a white film in the lettering. I find it very difficult to remove. I DO NOT want white lettering. Any suggestions?

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Dick

Don't let it dry for too long on any surface. I would re-apply a little and polish off right away.

I use this stuff on my knives and never have an issue with rust or other debris sticking to them.

The problem is that the wax dries in the lettering and turns white. I'm trying to use it on collectable guns that will never be shot. I have tried using a small new paint brush and a new tooth brush with some luck. It's even difficult to clean it with a tooth pick. Am I the only one with this issue?

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Dick

I have two blued N-frames and wanted to polish them in the manner described here. I spent some time in the US in December and tried finding Renaissance Wax without success. I did find a pot of Mothers Mag polish which I bought because I remembered some on here used Mothers. My question is, is Mothers Mag polish safe to use on my blued guns?

No! It's abrasive and will remove the blueing.
You can find renwax at woodworking stores,eBay and amazon.

I've never waxed a gun in my life.

Me neither Watchdog.

Take some mineral spirits clean the oil and grease off,wax that sucker up and lay it on mamas brand new sofa.She will never know

I don't wax my guns either - too much darn trouble cleaning off the Oil , waxing them, shooting them, cleaning, degreasing and re-waxing for my liking. While I do own Renwax and love the stuff, I use it all around the house and Cars and it does a very good job.

I have Renwaxed my BB Brass cartridges that sit in my Leather Pouches so they stay clean a bit longer - that Verdigris really builds up fast when Brass is against Leather. It doesn't prevent the Verdigris 100% and forever, but it really helps prolong the process and I also wax the inside of the pouches as well for even longer lasting results.

If I did have "show guns" that I never shot and just drooled over once in a while, YES I would definitely Renwax the heck out o f them!

I always have to add my 2 cents worth (or if you are talking about Renaissance wax), my $20 worth. There is something that I will never understand about this product and that is the cost. I know a jar "lasts forever", but I cannot find any data that supports this product over others. I have a small amount and about the only time I use it is if I want some high quality photos taken. I have a large can of Johnson's Paste was and use that on almost everything.

First, the make-up of these products is basically solubilizer and wax.

Johnson Paste Wax
Deodorized Naptha, 75-80%; Microcrystalline wax, 5-10%; Carnauba wax, 5%; Paraffin wax, 10%

Renaissance Wax
White Spirits, 80%; Microcrystalline wax, 20%

Cost for Renaissance wax is an astounding $10.22/ounce, while JPW is $0.37/ounce.

H Richard is absolutely correct in that wax will be quickly cut by the use of oils and bore cleaners (solubilizers) and to maintain wax protection, you need to re-wax after every gun cleaning.

I found that over the last 20 years or so, a spray with B/C Barricade does the job for me after every cleaning and I can periodically spread out some newspapers and go through my entire collection in less than 30 minutes time. I have never had lifting or bubbling of nickel, loss of finish on blued guns, and they all look the same as when I purchased them.

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Gary
SWCA 2515

You can use mineral spirits to remove the Ren-wax. My guess is your putting it on too thick. Use your finger with just a wipe of the wax. If you can see the wax on your finger (as a clump or smear) that's too much.


"H Richard is absolutely correct in that wax will be quickly cut by the use of oils and bore cleaners (solubilizers) and to maintain wax protection, you need to re-wax after every gun cleaning."
Not sure if this is correct. Ren-wax is not effected by oils and alcohols.

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Vietnam 1969-1971

Oils are hydrocarbon based chemicals that will display all the same traits of lighter hydrocarbons like spirits, paint thinners, and napthas. Therefore, all hydrocarbons will dissolve wax. The more viscous (heavier) the hydrocarbon, the longer it takes to dissolve the wax, but oil will degrade wax. Wax in paste form is essentially dissolved solid wax in a light hydrocarbon, which upon application, evaporates, leaving the wax. Bore cleaners can not be kept only in the bore when cleaning and will spill over onto the barrel, frame, and outside of the cylinder. These products are very good cleaners, including the ability to remove of waxes even faster than oils. My point is that over time, hydrocarbons will remove the wax, and it is wise to re-wax after every cleaning if that is the way you are protecting and storing your firearms.

You are correct in that waxes are not sensitive to alcohols, which are a different chemical family than hydrocarbons.

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Gary
SWCA 2515

We wax all of the guns in the museum. If it's something that has been recently shot, we clean it like you would any other gun, wipe it down to make sure it's not dripping wet, and then apply a coat of wax to the entire gun.

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High Caliber History

Just got my Standard Catalog of S&W
Now cant find were in book to look for my date of MfG of a 5906 KLF2228
thanks Bill in Texas

Mother's makes a pure carnuba wax, Californa Gold , that works well for metal. Got it at local auto parts store. Ren wax + postage was a bit out of my budget. If I didn't like it for my gun, I could use the Mother's Wax on my car.
The model 58 in my avatar got a cleaning with Turtle Wax Chrome polish and Rust Remover, and a wax with Mother's Gold and looks great! On both car and gun.
Wax tends to stay on the blued metal surface and looks very good....I like it!
Gary

I have used Johnson's paste wax for many years, and I cannot imagine that Ren Wax is superior in any way - except cost. Microcrystalline and paraffin waxes are both petroleum based - just different hydrocarbon molecules. Microcrystalline waxes are branched hydrocarbon isomers. Paraffin waxes have straight chain hydrocarbons. Carnauba wax is extracted from palm leaves, and is what provides the "shine". All waxes can be removed by solvents. All consumer wax formulations contain solvents like mineral spirits, as the waxes themselves are fairly hard solids, and couldn't be applied without some solvent to soften them, allowing them to spread.

Are you using Ren Wax or some other wax? Please elaborate.
Jim

I've used a couple of different paste waxes on rifle and shotgun stocks over the years,but it seems like renwax maintains its shine longer on those and on blued steel.

Renaissance wax? It's like Frank's Red Hot.I put that ..............You complete the sentence. ;-P