I did notice that my S&W's and Rugers varied greatly as to where the cylinder latch popped up to engage the notch. I have a 17-3 that hasn't been fool with,(to my knowledge), and the cylinder latch pops up IN the cut groove leading to the cylinder notch. I took it apart and saw the relationship between the latch, trigger , hand and saw that it varied a lot in several of my guns. I had a 629-1 that also had a very short turn line on the cylinder. A 200th year SS Blackhawk has no turn line and I have shot it a lot. No two are alike. It is possible to time and it will work like the factory meant it too.

I have only done the one as I really don't care either.

John

The factory meant the stop to pop back up about 40% of the way to the next notch. You can look at any cylinder on a used SW: the drag line is heavier on the latter 60% of the circumference and light on the first part. The first part gets a lighter line from closing the cylinder and then turning it by hand to index to a notch. The heavy drag line is from the stop riding the cylinder during trigger pulls.

Yup, you can polish the cylinder stop but it will wear into the bluing. If you don't want a ring don't turn it. You can do some amazing things with cold blue and 0000 wool. Warm the cylinder first and plan on several coatings.

It's different with on all revolvers. I have some that the line is as thin as a needle even after a few hundred rounds, then some start thick and become thinner as it reaches the next notch, and two are very pronounced. They all shoot very accurately but then again it usually the shooters ability...
Keeping the internals and notches clean and oiled might keep the line from becoming more pronounced.