I bought a very nice nickel 29-2 a couple of weeks ago and finally got out to shot it today. After about 12 rounds the ejector rod started to back out. I would hand tighten it and after another 12 or so rounds, it would start to back out once more. So I need to do more than hand tighten it. I was thinking of sticking the rod in my old blacksmith pin vise and really laying on the handle and then gripping the cylinder with a water pump pliers and.....................OK, pull your jaw up off the floor, just kidding.


Is there a tried and true way to tighten the ejector rod without a special tool? I was thinking maybe I could drill a hole in a block of wood, bandsaw the block in half and pad the rod with it in a vise, then grip the cylinder and snug it by hand. Good idea? Bad idea? Use some kind of non permanent thread locker?

When I bought the gun, the guy behind the counter said the cylinder was hard to open and they didn't know why. Well, I knew why, and once I got the cylinder open I tighten up the ejector rod and all was fine. Though I knew the cause I have never had to deal with it in any of my other S&Ws, so what do I do?

Take apart and clean all oil a gunk off it, put some nail polish on threads and put together and let dry. If that doesn't do it buy the tool from Brownells and do it the factory way (with a pipe wrench) .

Which ever tightening method you do use, DON'T FORGET TO INSERT AT LEAST 3 EMPTY CARTRIDGE CASES TO KEEP THINGS FROM SHEERING OFF WHILE TIGHTENING. The empty cases will secure the star wheel while tightening.

Put a piece if leather around the knurled tip before putting a pair of pliers on it. The leather will keep you from bunging up the knurled section. I would just try this first before using any Locktite or nail polish. Those are always used as a last resort. I have never found the need to use them.

chief38

Chief38, thanks for bring up placing some empties in the cylinder. Very good idea and I think I read that somewhere before.

Top of page two in the FAQ above. Vice, leather wrap to protect the outside of the rod, three or more empty cases, and hand tighten. No need for Locktite or anything else. Adhesives have a nasty habit of migrating where you don't want them and causing more problems than they solve. You also have the hassle of heating the part to break the Locktite if you need to replace or repair the part.

Recoil can work anything threaded loose so remember to frequently check sight screws, side plate screws, etc.