Removing gold plating??

Raider · Nov 25, 2010

I bought an old S&W revolver some years ago that had gold plate added to its hammer and trigger. At the time, I decided to just live with it. Now I want it gone and want the revolver to look like its original condition. I don't want to use acid because it might damage the steel underneath. Besides I'm hoping that they just plated and didn't polish so there might be come colors underneath; won't hold my breath.

Anyway, is there an easy/cheap way that I can remove the plating myself?

Thanks for any help.

Charlie

2152hq · Nov 25, 2010

Cheap would be to polish it off,,but depending on how you do it, you can really damage the contours and sharp edges of the piece.

Luckily gold is very soft and will disappear quickly when the part(s) are subjected to a wire wheel.

A 'soft'/fine wire wheel will remove the plating and any copper plate that may have been done underneath it quite easily.
It will not damage any steel and will leave the part with it's sharp edges (if it still had them before you started) and just a dull grey color to it from the now brushed finish applied.

DO NOT use any acid to remove the gold plating. It will not touch the gold, It will instead find it's way underneath the plating where it's not quite covered or where it may be lifting, etc.

It will eat the steel and leave the plating in tact.

There is a mix of acids that can be done to slowly disolve gold but you don't want that on the steel either.

De-plating or reverse plating (electro-plating) is the commonly used method in the business, but usually a bit beyond a kitchen table set-up.

BTW,,any wire wheel you use to remove or brush finish a soft metal like gold, copper, brass, etc shouldn't be used after that for burnishing steel parts.
The soft metals will lightly coat the wires. Then if you use the wheel to brush or burnish steel,, the soft metal will deposit back onto the steel surface and cause all sorts of problems when you go to blue or casecolor.

dfariswheel · Nov 25, 2010

The best/safest for the parts is to send them to a gun re-finisher and have them electro-strip the parts.

Basically, they reverse the plating process and this removes all the plating.
This will not damage the parts, and there's no chance of a slip causing damage as with using wire wheels or other methods of mechanically removing the finish.
Best of all, ALL the plating is removed, none is left in any crevices or holes.

Most gun refinishers offer low prices on small parts.
Check with companies like Ford's or APW/Cogan.

2152hq · Nov 26, 2010

A slip w/a wire wheel?
With all due respect,,
It's not rocket science,,a 'fine' wheel set up and light pressure will take gold, silver, copper plate off in a few strokes.
No damage to the edges or steel removed.
I've done countless Browning A5 triggers that way (along w/assorted triggers, pins, screws, hammers, etc on other firearms).
Their original gold plate worn and ratty looking,,removed and either left polished, blued or replated.

He did say 'cheaply and DIY'!
Sending it out and paying the bill for the work and shipping,,,you may as well buy a new hammer and trigger. At least ther'll be case colors on them.
Don't hold your breath for any existance of original casecolors under the plating anyway.

I do agree with the deplating process for larger parts, complete frames, barrels, slides, cylinders, etc. , but the occasional small part(s),,a wire works just fine on soft metal plating.

Just my .02 and personal experience.

Removing gold plating??

Raider

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2152hq

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dfariswheel

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2152hq

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