What's your favorite cold blue ? Any tricks to get a more deeper dark blue that's not splotchy ? Don't want to do a whole gun, just touch up and small parts .

I got good results with a product called "Blue Wonder". They have several nice products.

I use Birchwood Casey Perma Blue and my process is as follows:

I degrease with denatured alcohol, heat the part in boiling water and remove quickly to the work area (any water on the part will flash off). I apply the solution with a cotton ball well soaked. Keep the solution on and moving for 60 seconds then rinse. Buff lightly with degreased 4 aught steel wool and repeat the process 3 or more times. The last application, I do not buff, but instead drop the part into a container of motor oil and let it pickle for at least 24 hours. Then I remove, give it the final buff (with the oil still on the part) wipe it off and decide if I'm happy. Usually I am, but if I'm not, I start again.

For most steels this gives me a decent depth of finish and reasonable durability.

I use Brownells Ox-Po blue , had good results for 20 years. Use something to warm the part til warm to the touch. Surface prep and degreasing are the secret to a good job with any blue.

I can honestly say that I have been disappointed in every single cold blue I have ever used, and I have tried most of them. They look OK initially, but just do not hold up to regular usage. I have pretty much given up on the cold blues, and if it gets to the point where the gun looks really bad, it takes a road trip back to the Factory for a Factory refinish. I have two Colt SAA revolvers going out to Colt on Monday to be re blued and re case colored. I really wish someone would come up with a permanent cold blue.

chief38

I second that. Worked great on a 721 Remington using heat and cotton swabs, etc. (Hopefully they haven't changed the formula; used to have a definite acidic smell but worked great )

I have used Birchwood Casey's Super Blue and Brownell's Oxpho Blue with complete satisfaction. I degrease with rubbing alcohol and apply with a cleaning patch, when the color suits me I neutralize with hot water and immediately saturate the freshly blued metal with BC Sheath. I leave the Sheath on the metal for 24-48 hrs. remove with a soft cloth and apply Rennaisance wax and buff with a micro-fiber cloth. I have done a Winchester M/70 bolt handle and it has held up well for more than 2 years now. I've also used it on the muzzle of S&W barrels that I've shortened and recrowned, holds up well there too.

Shooter,
I have a BC perma blue/stock refinish kit and am considering trying my hand at a refinish. If you would, what were your best results on which parts, and why the oil bath at the finish? Did this seem to give a deeper blue to the finished product?

Thanks.

__________________
Regards,
Brian.

Birchwood Casey Paste.

Use any of the methods above.

Cold blue isn't as durable but coat of wax helps, as does thorough de-greasing and a little warming during application.

If the paste starts to dry out, a little distilled water will fix it. I've had 2 containers for the last 30 years only because I lent the first one out and never got it back.

/c

OXPHO BLUE, sold by Brownell's is available as a liquid or cream. I've only used the cream because I heard somewhere that it is easier to control. Have always been satisfied with the results.

The oil bath at the end of the bluing process helps kill the action of the blue (actually stops the etching of the acid contained in the blue) and in my experience "sets" the blue making it appear deeper and somewhat darker. I have a friend that uses RIG grease for this purpose, my preference is Sheath or Barricade made by Birchwood Casey.

Brownells Dicropan is my favorite and lasts well also.
Sadly it is not avilable here in Europe anymore.

Brownell's Oxpho Blue is very good, the liquid seems to work better for me than the paste. However, the Dichropan IM is the best, and believe me, I have tried them all over the years. The secret to any bluing job is to degrease thoroughly, warm the metal, and apply several coats until you get the desired results.

I have blued whole guns with Dichropan IM, using it in place of standard rust bluing solutions and it does a good job. I have done several pistols and a couple of rifles and they still look good after using them for two years or more.

I have used Van's Instant Gun Blue with good results used as directed. It is the best I have come across. Wish I would have used it instead of Birchwood Casey on one of my guns. It wont effect the original blue. BC left spots in the original blue.

__________________
SWCA 2082

What is your source for Vann's Instant Gun Blue?

I recently fitted an "in the white" steel grip frame for a Ruger Old Army to an Ruger old model Blackhawk, replacing the aluminum alloy one. I ended up using Brownell's Oxpho Blue to finish the frame using somewhat the same drill as rust bluing, except there's no need to wait for the Oxpho Blue to do it's thing to the metal since it's instantaneous.

I first tried rust bluing, but did not like the way it looked due to the dull/matte finish that results from the acidic rust bluing solution etching the surface.

It came out looking great. Oxpho Blue is known for being durable cold blue, and to maximize that after you get the depth of color desired, oil it up and then let it "cure" undisturbed for a few days, wiped it off and let it set for another couple of days, and then put on a few coats of your favorite paste wax... mine is Renaissance Wax.

So far the grip frame has held up after being carried around in a holster for a week of hiking and camping, no traces of the bluing thinning out on the leading edges of the trigger guard that was against the leather.

Time will tell how durable it really is.

Attached Images

	Grip frame1.jpg (86.6 KB, 266 views)
	OM Blackhawk.jpg (74.6 KB, 376 views)

__________________
Conrad
SWCA #1830 SWHF #222

The best results I ever got were on an old Redfield globe sight hood. Beautiful deep and dark. The worst results were on the loading lever of a .44 black powder revolver kit. Didn't take at all. Looked like magic marker applied and then wiped off. There are differences in steel and the composition affects how the blue takes.

The oil bath "sets" the blue and makes it harder and more durable. No idea why, but it does. You can really tell the difference with the steel wool polish. The fresh blue is very soft and will easily polish right off, especially on the corners. Pickle it for a day and it is much more robust.

Here:
Gun Bluing Made Easy With Van's Instant Gun Blue!

Terry

__________________
SWCA 2082

I did my vintage Remington model 24 with Oxpho Blue (recommended by my local gunsmith), and had great results. I used the cream for the same reason.

+ on Brownells Oxpho and I also put the RIG grease on it while its warm and let it sit over night then wipe it down and put a coat of silicone paste on it just like wax. wipe that off after about 5 mins and good to go!!

I dance to a different drummer and use Brownells 44/40 with good results.

Brownell's Oxpho-Blue. Excellent when you use a hair dryer or oven to preheat the parts or whole gun to 150-175 degrees or so. I put Hoppe's gun oil on and let set overnight. Polish with 0000 steel or brass wool and then apply Renaissance wax.

Well you know by now no silver bullet. Clean, warm, don't let it dry
rub off with paper towels, the cheap brown one's , cure over night with your favorite oil or even RIG and use some Johnson paste wax. I've tryed them all and I like 44-40 but nothing holds up like a hot blue job,all other's just are not as durable.