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02-10-2011, 08:37 PM
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Need 1917 help- rescued from the gunsmith
I rescued my 1917 from the 'gunsmith' that had it for 5 months and never got to it. The ejector rod plunger under the barrel had seized up on it locking it up. It had been a perfect functioning shooter until this point.
There was apparently some confusion, as I got it back in pieces, sandblasted in the white.
I gave it a rust browning for a finish (for now) while I get it working.
I'm now trying to figure out what is missing and put it back together.
From what I can tell- I'm missing a spring that works the cylinder release bar. Also the ejector rod won't go all the way into the crane; It's not obvious, but it may be bent keeping it from seating fully. It appears that the smith beat the crane open, so that may have bent it.
The action seems all there- but I'm not 100% sure either. I installed it as seen in the pics, and it functioned.
I'm knowledgeable with and can build a 1911, 3rd gen Smith, Sigs and Hi Powers- this is my only revolver, and I'm out of my element.
Can anyone tell by the pics what's missing, and ideas on why the ejector rod/crane/cylinder isn't going together right?
Any help appreciated!!
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...0/100_2202.jpg
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...0/100_2203.jpg
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02-10-2011, 09:26 PM
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The spring that pushes the locking bar forward also has a small pin that travels with it. It has a tiny groove on the end that the spring slips over, it's about 5/16ths or so long.
There is also a pin/spring combination that goes inside the crane, from the bottom. It's purpose is to help keep the cylinder open during reloading. It is comminly missing in action as a lot of people don't know it's there when they take out the crane/cylinder and they launch.
When I get a gun of that age, I strip it and soak it in Acetone. They often (read always) have 900 year old oil that has turned to varnish which does the tiny moving parts no goood.
You can also go online to see if you can find some exploded drawings, they can really help. George Nonte's Pistolsmithing book has them.
Good luck.
Cat
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02-11-2011, 05:44 PM
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Thanks guys!
Cat- the crane stop pin and spring seem to be the one small piece he didn't lose, because it's stuck in there! -Probably some of that old oil you mentioned.
John- that drawing is perfect! I've got a list of what I need now...
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02-11-2011, 09:17 PM
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That crane stop pin is seized up in there- it pushed in just a tad and is now frozen. Will acetone soaking free that up?
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02-11-2011, 10:02 PM
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If you are not in a real big hurry and can wait until Monday evening I will send you a pdf file of "Description and Rules for the Management of the Colt's Double-Action Revolver, Caliber .45 Model of 1917 and of the Smith and Wesson Double-Action Revolver Caliber .45, Model of 1917" and Sections XVI through XXII of TM9-1295 "Ordnance Maintenance Pistol and Revolvers" dated November 9, 1942 that covers the Smith and Wesson Revolver M1917, Cal. .45. PM me your email address so I can attach the file and send them to you.
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02-11-2011, 10:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Wizard
If you are not in a real big hurry and can wait until Monday evening I will send you a pdf file of "Description and Rules for the Management of the Colt's Double-Action Revolver, Caliber .45 Model of 1917 and of the Smith and Wesson Double-Action Revolver Caliber .45, Model of 1917" and Sections XVI through XXII of TM9-1295 "Ordnance Maintenance Pistol and Revolvers" dated November 9, 1942 that covers the Smith and Wesson Revolver M1917, Cal. .45. PM me your email address so I can attach the file and send them to you.
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much abliged!
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02-12-2011, 11:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kokopelli
That crane stop pin is seized up in there- it pushed in just a tad and is now frozen. Will acetone soaking free that up?
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Maybe.
Cat
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02-13-2011, 11:45 AM
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So I soaked it in acetone...nothing. I have it in the freezer now.
What next?
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02-13-2011, 07:01 PM
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I would like to know that myself kokopelli. I have one stuck also. I've tried the Acetone, beating it on a chunk of hardwood and crying. Nothing.
I think my next step is to set it up in the mill and drill it out.
Cat
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02-13-2011, 08:14 PM
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This has worked for me in the past to free up seized parts. I soak well in Kroil for 24 hours then apply heat with a hair dryer. Repeat as needed. May take several days but has never failed me.
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02-13-2011, 08:21 PM
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+1 on the Kroil, I keep a gallon can in the shop for just this kind of problem. May take quite a bit of soaking but has never failed me yet.
Glen
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OGCA
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02-13-2011, 08:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crankyoldlady
This has worked for me in the past to free up seized parts. I soak well in Kroil for 24 hours then apply heat with a hair dryer. Repeat as needed. May take several days but has never failed me.
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never used Kroil. Who carries it?
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02-13-2011, 08:49 PM
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KanoLabs.com
Brownells
Auto Zone or similar supply store
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02-13-2011, 08:51 PM
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here you go:
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02-14-2011, 08:46 PM
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Bullseye,
That's a nice diagram, but it's way too late for a '17. They are still Hand Ejectors, but the parts change quite a bit over the years.
Cat
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02-14-2011, 10:02 PM
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I know that, but it is close and should give you a hint on what you need. The design has changed some for sure but the basic's are there.
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02-14-2011, 10:10 PM
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So your "gunsmith" disassembled your gun, destroyed the finish, lost parts, and then gave it back to you in pieces? Wow... That guy would be paying me for lost value, get reported to the BBB, and anything else I can think of.
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02-14-2011, 10:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragon88
So your "gunsmith" disassembled your gun, destroyed the finish, lost parts, and then gave it back to you in pieces? Wow... That guy would be paying me for lost value, get reported to the BBB, and anything else I can think of.
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Actually, I took it back; he was still 'going to get to it'!
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02-18-2011, 04:24 PM
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Penetrating oils
Mmmmmm Kroil is goooooood! Try adding oil of wintergreen or the best overall rust-buster I have found, MARVEL MYSTERY OIL. All three of these are excellent rust penetrators. Be patient, soak for a day or two, maybe apply heat with a hair dryer or heat gun(carefully) & use a lead or brass drift. Have you removed the retaining pin? that might give you better access for getting the penetrating oil into the rusted area.
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02-28-2011, 03:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Wizard
If you are not in a real big hurry and can wait until Monday evening I will send you a pdf file of "Description and Rules for the Management of the Colt's Double-Action Revolver, Caliber .45 Model of 1917 and of the Smith and Wesson Double-Action Revolver Caliber .45, Model of 1917" and Sections XVI through XXII of TM9-1295 "Ordnance Maintenance Pistol and Revolvers" dated November 9, 1942 that covers the Smith and Wesson Revolver M1917, Cal. .45. PM me your email address so I can attach the file and send them to you.
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WIZARD, would be much obliged to receive that pdf on the 1917 as well.
I wonder why I should not replace the cylinder/crane on my 1917 45acp with a cylinder/crane from a 45 Long Colt?
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08-05-2011, 11:43 AM
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WARNING! OLD THREAD REVIVAL!!
Hey guys-
Life has been in the way the last 6 months, but I just pulled my 1917 box of parts out of the safe to work on again-
I have it all together, had gotten a few parts from Popperts. After countless hours of trying to figure out why it won't let the cylinder turn or release the latch, I finally figured out the extractor rod is bent! -This must have been from the hammering on it to release the crane.
Anyway, looking for a new extractor rod and center pin. I left a message with popperts, waiting to hear back, Numrich is out of them.
Anyone know a good 1917 smith? -someone knowledgeable with these? I'd like to get it 'onced over' and put together by a pro-
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Tags
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1911, 45acp, browning, bullseye, colt, ejector, extractor, gunsmith, m1917, model 1917, smith and wesson |
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