How to Refinish Wood Grips

pabner

Member
Joined
Jan 17, 2010
Messages
32
Reaction score
2
Location
Eastern Kentucky
I have a pair of J-Frame wood service grips that are in horrible condition. No scratches or nicks on the grips but my wife forgot my m36 in her atv and mold developed.

The metal is ok no rust but the grips turned an ugly gray when clean with Murphy Wood Soap.

What can I do to salvage them?
 
Register to hide this ad
I have a pair of J-Frame wood service grips that are in horrible condition. No scratches or nicks on the grips but my wife forgot my m36 in her atv and mold developed.

The metal is ok no rust but the grips turned an ugly gray when clean with Murphy Wood Soap.

What can I do to salvage them?

I use acetone and "Old Master" tung oil with varnish when I refinish mine.

I soak them overnight in a sealed jar of acetone then use a brillo pad to get all the dirt, grime and urathane off.

After it is all off i go over them again with a lint free cloth and more acetone to make sure everything is clean.

I allow them to dry which only takes a few minutes.

I then use another lint free cloth to apply several thin coats of "Old Masters" Tung oil with varnish. I wipe off the excess inbetween coats and allow to dry. I usually apply one to two coats per day with complete drying in between coats.

Depending on the desired look you can add a urathane to them, but I hardly ever do.
 
Would also recommend...

Consider lightly scouring the surface of the grips with a #0000 steel wool pad when you pull them from the solvent soak.

When/if you choose to apply a Tung Oil Finish, consider sanding the Tung Oil in with 220 grit sand paper, or perhaps scouring it in with #0000 steel wool. Liberally apply the oil and while it is still wet, gently sand with the grain. Let the oil set for a minimum of 5 minutes, until slightly tacky - wipe off with a lint free cloth.

If you choose to apply additional coats of Tung Oil, sand the finish in with higher grits (400/600 etc.). Please wait at least 24 hours between coats, especially when using Tung Oil Finish, which is not pure and cut with solvents. This allows the solvents in the finish due time to evaporate. This is especially important: If any solvent is trapped in between coats, it will visibly start to break the wood down in time.

If you notice that you have not removed any wood when sanding or wiping the grips down, and are not satisfied with the final outcome - consider dry sanding them with an appropriate grit to reach wood. Then, apply Tung Oil mixed at a Ratio of 5 parts solvent (mineral spirits will do) to 1 part Tung Oil. Thinning will allow you to reach wood when you sand the finish in - otherwise you will again be gliding on dried Tung Oil.

I hope to be of some help to you!

-Will
 
This is good info, as I was wondering about the grips on my 28-2. The target grips that came with the gun are well-used, the right panel dinged up much worse than the left, lots of embedded grime, and more than a few dings. The magnas I bought the other day are not as bad, but they had been sealed in shellac by a previous owner. I removed the shellac with acetone, smoothed them down with 0000 steel wool, and rubbed in a few coats of boiled linseed oil. The targets got the same treatment.

Anything else I should do to my grips?
 
I would like to thank everyone for their help. I did forget to mention the grips are checkered. How do I deal with the checkering? I will post before and after pictures when the project is completed.
 
I would like to thank everyone for their help. I did forget to mention the grips are checkered. How do I deal with the checkering? I will post before and after pictures when the project is completed.

Try a toothbrush...
 
this is all great advice. i have received a lot of pleasure from refinishing s&w grips. allow plenty of time.
 
Back
Top