I did a major clean-up yesterday on a 19-4 s/n 46K11xx and discovered what appears to be the start of a crack - a very fine line at the thinnest area that will not polish out. I am taking to a 'smith today for closer inspection, but suspect the worst.

Can this be repaired, or will it require replacement?

For the record, I purchased this piece from a pawn shop several years back, and have not used hot 125gr loads in it.

If it is crackee, I know of no source for replacement frames. I have heard there are some who can weld the frames, but do not know it holds up or not, or who it is that can do it. Hopefully someone who knows for sure will come along.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

Is the barrel forcing cone cracked or is it the frame? If the barrel, you will have to replace it. I am told the factory has no more barrels so you will have to find one here or on-line at Gunbroker.com or similar site. If it is the frame, it can be welded. Very expensive and not many will tackle it. If you get Kuhnhausen's book you can see what it takes. Hope that helps.

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S&WCA 1729

"Forcing cone" not frame. Only one option really, try and find a replacement barrel if it is cracked. Shoot it and see if the crack gets worse. If it's cracked, it will. If it's just a machining mark it won't and you're ok.

About a year ago I picked up a somewhat tired M19-3 with an eroded (but not cracked) forcing cone and considerable endplay, and some rotational cylinder slop as well. I sent it in to S&W for those issues. As I recall they turned the barrel back about two turns which allowed them to clean up the forcing cone area completely. I forget the exact TPI involved but the distance that we were able to move forward was appreciable. It was good enough that I could probably shoot full .357 loads in moderation in it without undue risk of a crack. As it is I will limit it to .38 Spl. loads and be content with that. But the point is that I wound up with the practical equivalent of a "new" barrel where it counted from the factory at minimal cost to me.

You MIGHT be able to restore that barrel to serviceability for at least .38 Spl. rounds if a similar procedure would clean up the crack.

I was lucky.

The thread spec on S&W barrels is 36 tpi. This translates to about 0.027 inches per thread if you're going to shorten the barrel shank.

Your revolver can probably be repaired by setting back the barrel shoulder. Howeve, this is a good time to remove any endshake from the cylinder and correct any timing problems. then when you set back the barrel shoulder and shorten the cracked forcing cone you can also set the cylinder gap to minimum. in effect rebuilding the revolver. You will also need to shorten the ejector rod the same amount as the barrel set back.

Good news - it turned out not to be a crack, just a machining mark that had some hard carbon cooked in it. The 'smith cleaned it up.

Thanks to all who offered help --

Just a suggestion for those looking at this thread. DO NOT continue to fire a revolver that has a crack in the forcing cone. It will widen and prevent the barrel from being removed from the frame. I have had one that we tried to remove the barrel for replacement and had to stop as the threads in the frame were coming out with the barrel.
Bob

That's why on a cracked barrel you trim off the barrel protruding from the frame and then take a forcing cone cutter and cut a "forcing cone" that runs out to the frame if possible, but in any case thinning the barrel "wall" as much as possible. Then unscrew it. Greatly improves the odds of not damaging the frame threads.

I recently saw a .22lr barrel for sale that had the forcing cone cut down
to fit in a .22 WMR k frame/cylinder .

I really wanted that barrel but was afraid it would require a new .22 mag cylinder to work.

Wondering how far a barrel can be recut and set back and if that would have worked on one that was shortened ?

An S&W revolver barrel can normally be set back two or three threads without loss of functionality. Any more than that, and the extractor rod will be visibly shortened with the associated re-fitting needed to make it work with the forward locking bolt.

That amount of barrel setback is no problem as the new forcing cone is re-cut anyway. For your .22 WMR forcing cone, I see no problem with it being used for .22 LR as the .22 Magnum/.22 LR forcing cones are pretty close dimensionally anyway.

Quote: That's why on a cracked barrel you trim off the barrel protruding from the frame and then take a forcing cone cutter and cut a "forcing cone" that runs out to the frame if possible, but in any case thinning the barrel "wall" as much as possible. Then unscrew it. Greatly improves the odds of not damaging the frame threads.

Response: That WAS done. The barrel was cut off flush with the frame prior to starting to remove the barrel. It still took out the first few threads before stopping. The barrel had to be cut off and the frame bored out to save the frame.

I have developed a crack in my 19-4 as well. I spoke to Smith and Wesson and the first customer service guy said they turn the barrels, and the second and third reps said that they did not.

I'm at a loss as to what to do with the gun. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Here's a pic of the crack

Attached Images

2011-05-28_11-53-46_340.jpg (36.2 KB, 1039 views)

So we cant shoot .357s out of our model 19s? I thought that was only for the hot 125gr loads?

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Don't look, reload and shoot!

Stick with 158's preferably lead and not often. Practice with 38s, carry or hunt with the 357's. Its really an inherent design flaw. You don't want a cracked forcing cone, trust me.

IF THE BARREL ISNOT CRACKED ALL THE WAY ;SMITH CAN TURN THE BARREL.LIKE NEW.

model 19 barrel on gunbroker right now 75 dollars

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The absence of pain is...death