My gunsmith/FFL dealer would not take my money! I bought a Para USA GI 1911 from Buds guns. I bought a Clark 1911 frame scope mount from Bullseye gear. When he looked the scope mount over my gunsmith said that no amount of locktite in the world would keep it attached to the frame.

He seems like a bright guy, I paid him the transfer fee and went home. Should I return the scope mount and try something else? I hope to use the gun Bullseye shooting someday.

This is screwing up my plan to spend my disposable income upgrading this gun.

Help

Mark

If it is the one I am thinking of, has three or four screws on each side? Made in a "U" shape and mounts on each side of the frame. If it is this mount, you can't get any better.

You may want to consider a slide m,ount for either the Docter or C-More STS. Mouints are made that fir directly into the rear sight dovetail.

Someone also makes a left panel grip goes up and over to mount a scope/dot on the 1911.

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S&W Accumulator

I have an inquiring mind, and just want to understand why it is you would want to put a scope on a 1911 semi-auto.

1. Bad Eyesight
2. Super accurate needs scope to take advantage of accuracy
3. Going to lob those 230gr slugs further than you can see without one
4. Just can't make the eyes focus on the sights and the target at the same time.

The reason I bring this up is the parallax issue with scopes presents its own inaccuracy issues. Unless you can dial it in for various ranges you have this to contend with...

A handgun with a 5” barrel has a limited range... iron sights normally do a wonderful job within this distance.

Several of our Bullseye shooters use the grip panel mount, mostly with Red Dot sights. The Clark mounts I've seen used the two grip screws and then required drilling/tapping two more offset ones in the frame to secure it. Aimtech made one that replaces the right side panel and used special screws through the MSH and hammer pin holes along with the grip screws to keep it in place. It seems to work well and doesn't alter the gun in any way that can't be put back stock.

I use this setup:
Burris Fastfire 2 mounted in the Bomar dovetail that was on my target 1911. Burris makes several base mounts that fit the rear dovetail of various pistols, makes them easy to install, and they don't weight more than about 2-3 oz's. I was having trouble seeing the sights well, and this setup really helps. It didn't cause any function issues, and it can be returned to the old Bomar rear sight w/o any issues.
If you have not used a red dot before, there will be any adjustment period, so don't give up right away, it will take some time to adjust to the red dot.
I have not had any issues with parallax.

Jack Weigand makes this mount which is very sturdy.



Buck

I have one of these--- works very well and you do not alter the gun --so no loss in resale value.

As someone else has noted, the original Clark frame mount replaced the left grip panel. It had 4 holes in it. Two went over the grip screws and the other two required the frame to be drilled & tapped for either 6-48 or 8-40 (it's been a long time) screws to help keep it in place. The extra holes are hidden by standard stocks should you remove the scope mount.

Having said all that: there are better ways. Mounts such as the Weigand do much better. However, given the amount of metal in the standard dust cover, I wouldn't join the "the most screws is better club" in choosing such a mount. You'll note the screws to the far right on the Weigand mount go into a much thicker frame section than the dust cover. You've also pretty much screwed the pooch should you decide to go back to iron sights.

Back in the day, there was a Leupold ad that showed a 1911 slide with a scope mounted to it. Cheap scopes need not apply!